Introducing the Slim d'Hermès GMTBy Adi Soon
The Slim d’Hermès case has certainly become a staple in the horological line up of Hermès, with its elegant lines and discreet dimensions sitting well on the wrist, as well as the characteristic font designed by Philippe Apeloig imbuing a charming character to the dials of the watches. We liked this combination so much that we gave the original Slim d’Hermès, the Revolution Award for Best Men’s Watch back in 2015.
This year, with the Slim d’Hermès having already proven itself a fan favorite, with the Slim d’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel and Slim d’Hermès L’heure Impatiente being two noteworthy expressions of it’s aesthetic, it is the new Slim d’Hermès GMT that comes to join its complicated predecessors.
As one gazes at the new Slim d’Hermès GMT, one notes that while the aesthetic is kept in line with what we’d expect, it is the arrangement of the elements on the dial that will attract some scrutiny, particularly the large silvered sub-dial at 10 o’clock and the two small apertures labeled with “H” and “L” near the 2 o’clock position. These elements, together with the pusher on the case at 10 o’clock are what essentially make up the GMT function of this new watch.
Depressing the pusher makes the blued hand in the silver subdial (GMT) jump to the numerals that it contains, arranged not concentrically at the edge as we’d normally expected, but somewhat randomly, though in the correct order. As this sub-dial relays its hour information on a 12-hour basis, it is the small aperture labeled “L” (for Local) that denotes if it is day or night by the change of a color indication within, with white denoting day and blue denoting night. The main hour and minute hands have their own indication, with the small aperture labeled “H” (for Home) performing the same function in this respect. Last but not least, there is a date function at 6 o’clock, indicated by pointer hand that elevates the utility of this GMT function.
Contained within the new watch is the ultra thin Manufacture Hermès H1950 movement at 2.6mm thick, along with a 1.4mm ultra thin GMT module on top, developed exclusively with long time collaborator, Agenhor. Together, these elements go into a 9.4mm thick case, sized at 39.5mm in diameter, making a package worthy of its “Silm” appellation as well as suitable for being the perfect gentlemen’s watch.
The Slim d’Hermès GMT joins the aforementioned Slim d’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel (Perpetual Calendar) as the maison’s current “regular” complicated watches, quite apart from the whimsical and complicated trio of the Arceau Le Temps Suspendu, Dressage L’Heure Masquee and the Slim d’Hermès L’heure Impatiente whose stock in trade is more emotional than traditional.
As a release, it is certainly a logical extension of the horological offerings from the maison, being something truly useful to have while traveling, an activity for which Hermès is associated with after all, through it’s other product lines.
The Slim d’Hermès GMT will come in this edition as a 90-piece limited edition, with a unique case made of approximately 36.45 grams of Palladium, a precious metal that is about 15 times rarer than platinum and 30 times rarer than gold. Of note as well in this edition is the slate toned dial, made up of a sunburst chapter ring and guilloche date counter and dial center, with the contrasting silver toned GMT counter, helping the user place its hierarchy among its indications.