Power List: The Microbrands

It has been a phenomenal year for the watch world. To round off 2022, we are celebrating the hits, the wonders, the visionaries and all the people in watchmaking who have made it so memorable in our annual Revolution Awards and Power Lists.

Microbrands, as a loosely defined category, have come a long way in the last decade, and today we look at the big fish in the microbrand pond.

 

What justifies the Microbrands category on Revolution’s 2022 power list? Firstly, it’s because these promising upstart brands created or relaunched by young entrepreneurs and designers are, in many ways, tapped much more into the zeitgeist of the current generation of watch collectors. And with good reason — because the creators behind the brands are the same age as the customers they are creating their watches for. Secondly, while it might have been unthinkable a decade ago that these individuals and their brands could have a huge impact on the watch industry, thanks to the advent of online platforms such as Instagram and Kickstarter, many of these brands have gone on to achieve great success. Even more importantly, as the majority of their founders are in their 30s, they represent the future of our industry.

Atelier Wen (Robin Tallendier and Wilfried Buiron)

Atelier Wen’s Robin Tallendier and Wilfried Buiron
Atelier Wen’s Robin Tallendier and Wilfried Buiron

The founders of Atelier Wen, dedicated to creating proudly-crafted-in-China timepieces, have always had an infatuation with the Middle Kingdom since their youth. Wilfried Buiron, who lives in Singapore, was born in Hong Kong, studied in Peking University and has even appeared on television regularly in China. Tallendier was raised in a family of Sinophiles who frequently traveled to Shanghai for their summer vacations. It was there that he aligned his fascination with Asia with his burgeoning interest in mechanical watchmaking through collecting Seagull watches. Later, during university, he became a well-known member of the Chinese watchmaking community, the disciple of Li Wei, the greatest authority on watchmaking in the country, and even acted as an adviser to the Chinese government for the development of its watch industry overseas. Together, Buiron and Tallendier decided to start Atelier Wen, “The Culture Workshop,” to demonstrate the level of design, construction, finish and artisan craft in the form of stunning guilloché à main dials available in China.

From left: Atelier Wen Perception 影 (YING), 缥 (PIAO), 霞 (XIA)
From left: Atelier Wen Perception 影 (YING), 缥 (PIAO), 霞 (XIA)

Having worn an Atelier Wen Perception integrated bracelet watch for several months, I can attest that the level of finish and quality of construction is truly impressive. The dials are amongst the very finest I’ve ever set eyes on. For the future, Tallendier and Buiron have some mighty plans indeed, together with the intelligence, dynamism and ability to ensure they all come to fruition.

Baltic (Etienne Malec, Paul Bienstman and Clement Daniel)

Baltic’s tripartite team of Etienne Malec (center), Clement Daniel (left) and Paul Bienstman (right)
Baltic’s tripartite team of Etienne Malec (center), Clement Daniel (left) and Paul Bienstman (right)

Though still young men, Malec, Bienstman and Daniel are the O.G.’s of the microbrand game, and their marque Baltic has become one of the great success stories of recent years. The brand began with Malec’s love for his father’s vintage watch collection. He describes getting to know his late father, after he passed away prematurely, through his choices in timepieces.

Baltic Tricompax Reverse Panda
Baltic Tricompax Reverse Panda

Today, many microbrands are channeling the spirit of the 1940s through the ’60s, but it was really Malec, Bienstman and Daniel that established this first with their stunning Bicompax Chronograph. Over the last few years, they have focused on elevating their game, incorporating Swiss made movements in watches like the Aquascaphe GMT and their latest Tricompax Chronograph in collaboration with Peterson Auto. They have also become community leaders with the desire to unite the French watchmaking industry. When not hard at work, the “trinity” of Malec, Bienstman and Daniel can be found piloting their Porsches in remote regions of Scotland and through the Alps, while Malec recently drove his GT3 through the 22km of Germany’s Nordschleife.

Bamford Watch Department (George Bamford)

George Bamford, founder of Bamford Watch Department
George Bamford, founder of Bamford Watch Department

George Bamford is, hands down, one of the nicest, warmest and kindest individuals you will ever meet. And while he got his start creating those blacked-out Daytonas that even today are still much sought after, he has since refocused on officially sanctioned collaborations with the likes of LVMH Group, Franck Muller and Chopard. This year, he has released some of his most memorable watches, such as the RUF × Bamford × Highsnobiety – TAG Heuer Carrera.

RUF × Bamford × Highsnobiety – TAG Heuer Carrera
RUF × Bamford × Highsnobiety – TAG Heuer Carrera

At the same time, he’s creating his own timepieces under the Bamford London label, which represents strong design, coupled with highly appealing collaborative executions, but always with an eye on expressing a high value proposition.

Furlan Marri (Andrea Furlan & Hamad Al Marri)

The dynamic duo behind Furlan Marri, Hamad Al Marri and Andrea Furlan
The dynamic duo behind Furlan Marri, Hamad Al Marri and Andrea Furlan

What Andrea Furlan and Hamad Al Marri achieved in 2021 was unprecedented. They created and launched a brand, and then won the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève Horological Revelation award all within the same year. They are a wonderful example of how a small young upstart brand has its finger more precisely on the pulse of the watch buying public than the vast majority of big established maisons. Indeed, the moment that Furlan made their 16th Instagram post unveiling their tribute to Patek Philippe’s legendary 1463, with the hallowed iconography of François Borgel’s iconic case, crown and pushers, I was completely intrigued by the brand. That they intended to make precisely the style of chronograph that so many young collectors were enamored by, but priced at a mere few hundred dollars was seriously game changing.

'Castagna', or reference 1009-A (Image: Revolution©)
'Castagna', or reference 1009-A (Image: Revolution©)
'Rosso Grigio', also known as reference 1085-A
'Rosso Grigio', also known as reference 1085-A
'Nero Sabbia' (reference 1072-A)
'Nero Sabbia' (reference 1072-A)

Meeting both Furlan and Marri shortly afterwards during last year’s Geneva Watch Days, I was blown away by how thoughtful, dedicated, sincere and genuine they were. Now, over a year later, Furlan Marri has become a major hit. But even more impressive is how they have continued the evolution of their brand with stunning new dial designs featuring applied Breguet numerals or luminous Roman index tracks and truly sumptuous colors. Waiting in the wings is also their first Swiss made mechanical chronograph as well as an incredible complicated watch in collaboration with a true industry legend. Because they have quietly and humbly mapped out a future that is epic in every way, I am pleased to include them in our 2022 power list.

Isotope Watches (José Miranda)

José Miranda, founder of the enthusiast-driven Isotope Watches
José Miranda, founder of the enthusiast-driven Isotope Watches

José Miranda’s designs for Isotope Watches charm because of their sheer originality. It takes massive testicular fortitude to largely eschew the existing wristwatch iconography of the past 100 years. But while the majority of watches, especially in this category, tend to quote nostalgically from the 1940s through the ’60s, Miranda instead invokes design language ranging from Bauhaus and Streamline to Max Bill that results in a fresh take on modern timepieces.

Isotope GMT 0º
Isotope GMT 0º

Isotope’s GMT 0º uses an array of dots around the dial to display home time, while its HydriumX “The Judge” dive watch uses a flaming red smooth bezel and oversized hands to add colorful panache to what would otherwise be a pragmatic tool watch. But even more impressive is what Miranda has waiting in the wings, with plans to launch several phenomenal new models next year.

Jacques Bianchi (Jacques Bianchi, Fabrice Pougez, Paul Miquel And Simo Tber)

Jacques Bianchi, the watchmaker behin the JB200 dive watch
Jacques Bianchi, the watchmaker behin the JB200 dive watch
Paul Miquel
Paul Miquel
Fabrice Pougez and Simo Tber
Fabrice Pougez and Simo Tber

Jacques Bianchi, with his white beard and Herculean physique, looks like Poseidon of the Greek gods. Bianchi lives in Marseille and, in his early years, repaired and designed watches for a living. In 1982, having accumulated experience working on watches that belonged to Comex divers, Bianchi created his own dive watch — the JB200. It was like no other dive watch ever made with a manta ray shaped case and an image of a diver wearing the watch on its dial. It was adopted and used by the French Navy.

JB200 1982 & 2021
The iconic scuba diver dressed in a contrasting color of Luminova in the Jacques Bianchi × Revolution JB 200 ‘Méduse’ limited edition (Image: Revolution©)
The iconic scuba diver dressed in a contrasting color of Luminova in the Jacques Bianchi × Revolution JB 200 ‘Méduse’ limited edition (Image: Revolution©)

Fast forward 40 years later, the JB200 is back and hotter than ever, thanks to the trio of Fabrice Pougez, creator of MAT Watches, famed journalist Paul Miquel and digital marketing expert Simo Tber, who relaunched the JB200 together with the legendary watchmaker through a Kickstarter campaign that exploded in popularity and demand in 2021. Since then, collectors have been clamoring to get their hands on the JB200, which will have its first commercial (non-Kickstarter) launch next year. With a powerful momentum behind them, we can’t wait to see what Pougez, Miquel and Tber will do next with this unique and highly appealing brand.

Massena Lab (William Massena)

William Massena, founder of Massena Lab, who has turned his company into a hothouse for coveted collaborative watches
William Massena, founder of Massena Lab, who has turned his company into a hothouse for coveted collaborative watches

William Rohr, the founder of Massena Lab, is often called William Massena. The name Massena, however, is a construct, but one that I find highly apropos as it references one of Napoleon’s greatest military commanders, André Masséna, who was nicknamed l’Enfant chéri de la Victoire. Indeed, Rohr has been victorious in turning Massena Lab into a hothouse for collaborative watches that has gone on to create several proprietary models. His partners in his instantly sold-out projects include Unimatic, Habring2, Louis Erard and MB&F.

UNIMATIC x Massena LAB U4S-BRZ-ML
UNIMATIC x Massena LAB U4S-BRZ-ML
Habring² x Massena LAB Chrono Felix Perpetual
Habring² x Massena LAB Chrono Felix Perpetual
Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Massena LAB
Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Massena LAB
Massena LAB in collaboration with Romaric André, aka seconde/seconde/ present Uni-Racer
Massena LAB in collaboration with Romaric André, aka seconde/seconde/ present Uni-Racer

At the same time, he has been brilliant in unearthing the potential of constructors like Luca Soprana in a decidedly wonderful watch named Old School. He has also created his own tribute to the Universal Genève Bi-Compax, named the Uni-Racer, which yielded a delightful collaboration with Romaric André, aka seconde/seconde/. A watch collector of extraordinary taste and knowledge, a former managing director of TimeZone.com, an auction expert, a former chief operating officer of Antiquorum, and now a specialist in collaborative editions, what is clear is that everything Massena touches turns to gold.

Nivada Grenchen and Vulcain (Guillaume Laidet)

Guillaume Laidet of Nivada Grenchen and Vulcain
Guillaume Laidet of Nivada Grenchen and Vulcain

Guillaume Laidet is the James Brown of the microbrand scene — meaning that he is the hardest working man in the game. Overseeing not just one but two revivals, he has successfully transformed Nivada Grenchen into one of the hottest brands around, backed by well-designed, historically accurate, well-made, fun and very well-priced sports watches. Since reviving the brand with Remi Chabrat in 2018, Laidet has brought back the Antarctic, the Chronomaster and the Depthmaster to great success. Wait for his reintroduction of the 1964 Depthomatic, the first mechanical watch featuring a depth gauge. At the same time, Laidet has also relaunched the Vulcain Cricket to great success by intelligently reconnecting this iconic alarm watch with its very original design and size. Laidet is, without doubt, an entrepreneur to keep your eye on for the future.

Nivada Grenchen Chronomaster
Nivada Grenchen Chronomaster

Seconde/Seconde/ (Romaric André)

Romaric André, humorist and founder of seconde/seconde/
Romaric André, humorist and founder of seconde/seconde/

Romaric André wields humor with a virtuoso’s ability. Indeed, he brings laughter, wit, fun and a totally unique take on watches by focusing on the addition or modification of watch hands. And the result is to create a timepiece that will make you smile. Take, for example, his collaboration with Massena Lab on a “Big Eye” version of the brand’s Uni-Racer, which affixed a pixilated oversized eyeball to the watch’s chronograph minute counter, in a literal take on the collector’s sobriquet for this model. And while this might seem like fun and games, I would go so far as to say that André reminds us all that watches should be joyful and thus, the role he occupies is an important one.

Massena LAB in collaboration with Romaric André, aka seconde/seconde/ present Uni-Racer
Massena LAB in collaboration with Romaric André, aka seconde/seconde/ present Uni-Racer

Studio Underd0g (Richard Benc)

Richard Benc, founder of Studio Underd0g
Richard Benc, founder of Studio Underd0g

If you select the “About Us” button on the Studio Underd0g website, you will find three images of Richard Benc demonstrating that he is the founder (Richard), head of design (Rich) and marketing manager (Ricky) of his upstart brand. It is a witty way for him to express that he started Studio Underd0g as a one-man show that has since garnered a cult following for its bright Pop Art like bi-compax chronographs powered by Seagull ST-1901 movements. Impressively, for a watch that costs 500 British pounds, it is entirely assembled in England. The charm of these watches is that they combine genuinely great design with a fun factor that leaves you feeling uplifted. And that was precisely the impetus under which Richard had created the brand. When the COVID pandemic hit the world in 2020, Richard got fed up sitting around his apartment and decided to create his own brand. In many ways, because of their bright edifying appearance, his Studio Underd0g watches became a beacon of hope and positivity during the ensuing two years.

The Studio Underd0g Watermel0n is driven by a Seagull manual winding ST-1901 with gilt swan-neck regulator
The Studio Underd0g Watermel0n is driven by a Seagull manual winding ST-1901 with gilt swan-neck regulator
Studio Underd0g Strawberries and Cream
Studio Underd0g Strawberries and Cream

Of all his appealing color combinations, my favorite is the Strawberries & Cream edition, made in collaboration with watch and tennis journalist Miguel Seabra, that dropped to massive success this year. Rich definitely has plans for other models in the future but, regardless of what he makes, I have no doubt that they will tap into that childlike optimism through their chromatic expressionism that will have us all smiling. To all three of his personas — Richard, Rich and Ricky — I say, “Well done, sirs.”

Unimatic (Giovanni Moro and Simone Nunziato)

Giovanni Moro (left) and Simone Nunziato, co-founders of Unimatic, one of the most successful microbrands that has elevated its game through collaborations with a wide range of artists and brands
Giovanni Moro (left) and Simone Nunziato, co-founders of Unimatic, one of the most successful microbrands that has elevated its game through collaborations with a wide range of artists and brands

Giovanni Moro and Simone Nunziato met in industrial design school and bonded over their mutual love for watches. They decided to launch their brand, Unimatic, in 2015, and have gone on to create one of the most successful upstart brands around that has generated a true cult following. The designs of their timepieces evinces a quality I think of as “necessariness,” as if they are compelled into existence through a virtuoso-like combination of pragmatism, minimalism and Italian flair. What is particularly impressive about their watches, from the Modello Uno dive watch to the Modello Tre chronograph, is the way they lend themselves to what the pair calls “hybridization,” in the form of collaborative projects with a wide-ranging array of different types of artists, designs and watch media companies.

Unimatic × Revolution & The Rake Modello Uno GMT “Arctic Fox”
Unimatic × Revolution & The Rake Modello Uno GMT “Arctic Fox”

One of the smartest pair of designers around, they consistently elevate their brand with these strong partnerships, while continuing to create well-designed and extremely high quality timepieces, with a shift now into Swiss movements.

Yema Watches (Christopher Bôle and Anibal Martinez)

Anibal Martinez, marketing director of Yema
Anibal Martinez, marketing director of Yema
Christopher Bôle, the company’s CEO
Christopher Bôle, the company’s CEO

Yema watch company is owned by Christopher Bôle, a man with the admirable objective of putting French watchmaking, including French movement construction, back on the map. The fact that he is doing it with Yema, a brand with its roots in the town of Morteau and one known for its smart, historically accurate, unique and just downright cool watches at great prices, makes him a real player in the microbrand space. In particular, the Superman diving watch with its unique bezel locking device has proven to be a strong success. Much of the current excitement around Yema has to do with the proprietary micro-rotor movement that Yema launched this year on November 15, which marks an all-new chapter at the brand as it continues to elevate its game.

Yema Superman 500 Destro Limited Edition
Yema Superman 500 Destro Limited Edition
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