With bigger surprises expected to come later today, Patek Philippe begins its 2025 announcements with line extensions to two brand favourites.

Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Ref. 5524G

When Patek Philippe introduced its first Calatrava Pilot Travel Time in 2015, it was not a re-edition of any vintage model in the company’s back catalog, but rather a tribute to aviator timepieces in the Patek Philippe Museum in Geneva, and to the military-style watches created by the manufacture in the run up to the Second World War.

At the time of its introduction ten years ago, it was a watch so unexpected from the house behind the sporty Nautilus and Aquanaut and the usually dressy Calatrava, that the Pilot Travel Time caused industry shockwaves with pundits and collectors struggling to pigeonhole it. Today, however, it feels like a staple of the brand’s line-up and design additions are eagerly anticipated.

From the original Ref. 5524G with white-gold case and blue dial to 2018’s rose-gold Ref. 5524R with brown-black dial, the timepiece has fulfilled its aim of being “a fully functional watch for modern times”. And, while some industry experts saw the discontinuation of the Ref. 5524G earlier this year as part of Patek refining its collection, it appears that the manufacture was simply making way for good things to come.

Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Ref. 5524G-010. Said to be inspired by a pilot’s canvas harness, the military-green composite strap has a woven motif and a white gold pin buckle.

Now, a decade after its debut, the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time is reimagined with a completely fresh look. A 42mm white-gold case frames a creamy ivory lacquered dial. With a practical aviation aesthetic trumping a more obvious luxurious look, the white gold applique numerals are blackened and filled with luminous material, as are the sword-shaped, charcoal-hued hour and minute hands. 

Within the case is the self-winding Calibre 26-330 S C FUS which enables the solid local-time hand to be moved in one-hour increments backwards or forwards via the two screw-down crowns on the left of the case, simultaneously adjusting the date at 6 o’clock. Home time is represented by a skeletonised hour hand and day/night for both zones is indicated at 3 and 9 o’clock.

Tech Specs: Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Ref. 5524G-010

Movement: Self-winding Calibre 26-330 S C FUS; 35h-45h power reserve
Functions: Hours and minutes; central seconds; date; two time zones: day/night indication
Case: 42mm × 10.78mm; white gold; water-resistant to 30m
Dial: Ivory lacquer; blackened white-gold applied numerals with luminescent coating; local time sword-style hand in charcoal grey-coloured white gold with luminescent coating; home time skeletonised sword-style hand in charcoal grey-coloured white gold
Strap: Khaki green composite material with fabric pattern; white-gold clevis prong buckle

Ladies’ Nautilus Ref. 7010G

First introduced in 1980, just four years after its men’s counterpart, the original Ladies’ Nautilus featured a 27mm case and a quartz movement, and was joined a year later, in 1981, by a 33mm quartz version that was marketed as a unisex model. Since these first steel, gold and bi-metal pieces, the Ladies’ Nautilus has seen many iterations and whatever the size, metal, colour or degree of gem-setting, it has remained a top-seller for Patek for more than 40 years. In 2023, the model was reimagined in a 32mm rose-gold case with gem-set bezel and a regal purple dial with either a colour matched composite strap or rose-gold bracelet.

Ladies’ Nautilus Ref. 7010G-013. Within the diminutive case is an E 23-250 S C quartz calibre

This year, the watch said to be inspired by Jules Verne’s 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea, continues playing with colour appearing in a white-gold version with an ocean-inspired, wave-patterned, azure-blue lacquered dial framed by 46 brilliant-cut white diamonds and finished with a matching blue strap with white-gold folding clasp or a white-gold bracelet.

Tech Specs: Ladies Nautilus Ref. 7010G-013

Movement: Quartz E 23-250 S C calibre
Functions: Hours and minutes; central seconds; date
Case: 32mm × 6.9mm white gold; diamond-set bezel; water-resistant to 30m
Dial: Azure blue lacquer with wave pattern; white-gold applied numerals and hour markers with white luminescent coating; white-gold alpha-style hands with white luminescent coating
Strap: Azure blue composite material with fabric pattern; white-gold fold-over clasp