However, the current month signals a departure from this measured strategy, with the brand unveiling an unexpected array of high-jewelry Nautilus and Aquanaut models. While gem-set watches are not uncommon in the world of watchmaking, these new timepieces stand out for their extravagant and exceptional execution. The new Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow”, in particular, marks the brand’s first foray into combining a minute repeater complication with a sports watch.

Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow” Minute Repeater Haute Joaillerie

In that sense, the new Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow” Minute Repeater is unexpected, from two perspectives. First, it’s Patek Philippe’s inaugural sports watch housing a minute repeater. The Aquanaut Luce now stands as the most complicated Patek Philippe sports watch ever, eclipsing even the Nautilus Perpetual Calendar ref. 5740 in complexity. And interestingly, it’s marketed as a ladies’ sports watch. The combination of the traditionally reserved complication with the brand’s fervent sports watch is unexpected, potentially even shocking to traditional fans of the brand.

Second, the Aquanaut Repeater makes a grand entrance with a “rainbow” gem setting adorning the dial, case, and bracelet. For the bracelet version, even the hands are set with colorful sapphires, as is the case flank. In essence, the entire watch is practically crafted from rose gold structures framing gemstones. This lavish and showy appearance is uncharacteristic of the brand’s minute repeater, which has always maintained a subtle elegance, even in models adorned with gemstones.

Furthermore, from a commercial standpoint, a fully gem-set Patek sports watch is a rare and expensive commodity, as is a Patek repeater. Consequently, a Patek sports watch that is both fully gem-set and features a repeater is an exceptionally rare and costly piece. Its limited production volume ensures that it won’t negatively impact the brand’s identity or strain its production capacity. Additionally, its exclusive target audience is not concerned with the watch’s limited appeal. With a reported retail price of approximately CHF 2.5 million for the bracelet version, the brand only needs to sell a handful of units to generate significant profit. Given the desirability of Patek Philippe sports watches, fully jeweled Patek sports watches, and complicated, fully jeweled Patek sports watches, the Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow” is certain to find success within its niche market.

The Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow” has divided collectors and enthusiasts, with some questioning the incorporation of the chiming complication on a sports watch. However, history has shown that time can transform controversial designs into coveted icons, as seen with the Royal Oak and Daytona. The gem-set Daytona, particularly the ref. 6269 and 6270, exemplifies this phenomenon. It is not unreasonable to envision the Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow” following a similar trajectory. As Patek Philippe’s first sports watch with a minute repeater, it marks a milestone in the brand’s history. That said, its lavish gem-setting, while certainly showing a high level of craftsmanship, is arguably not as groundbreaking as the conceptual leap of the vintage references.

Nautilus Haute Joaillerie “Snow-Set”

Beyond the colors, the new Nautilus employs a clever gem-setting technique known as “snow-set,” involving the arrangement of different sizes of gemstones to create a more organic and natural look than the usual uniform arrangement of the same size.

Ladies’ Nautilus ref. 7010R

Despite the simplicity of the gem setting, the thoughtful use of color introduces a touch of sophistication. The purple dial, paired with the rose gold case, creates a rich color palette that distinguishes it from other Ladies’ Nautilus models, which typically feature more conventional dial colors like silver or golden brown. For those desiring an attention-grabbing timepiece without the extravagance of the aforementioned models, the new Ladies’ Nautilus is an ideal choice.

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow” Minute Repeater Haute Joaillerie ref. 5260/355R-001 and ref. 5260/1455R-001 specs

Patek Philippe Nautilus Haute Joaillerie ref. 7118/1451G-001, ref. 7118/1452G-001 and ref. 7118/1453G-001 specs

Patek Philippe Ladies’ Nautilus ref. 7010R-013 and 7010/1R-013 specs and price