Turn left. In the world of Rolex, the slightest tweaks can make a massive difference, not only to the aesthetics of a watch, but also to collectability. This year, the headline Rolex news is all about the sports watches with a new bezel color for the GMT-Master II and a gem-set white gold Yacht-Master 40…

The steel GMT-Master II has been a huge hit, ever since the introduction of the blue and black bezel version, and then the hysteria was turned up to 11 with the launch of the red and blue, or “Pepsi” as it known to collectors. Rolex have now made another steel model with a black and green Cerachrom bezel. The green has been seen before on the Submariner, but the green and black is something entirely new and is sure to create another stampede at authorized dealerships.

The twist in this aeronautical story is the fact that the crown is on the left-side of the case. Destro or left-hooker, however you refer to it, it’s a cool look and a broadening of the Rolex tool-watch offer. What seems like a straightforward change has actually made it a necessity to redevelop the COSC-testing equipment to allow for the change in movement orientation. The new GMT-Master II reference 126720VTNR is available with the Oyster bracelet and retains the 40mm Oystersteel case.

Bling Your Yacht

There is a story that I remember hearing or reading over a decade ago regarding the original intention for the Yacht-Master. I can’t verify this, but it seems legitimate. The maybe-tall tale involves a proposed redesign of the mighty Submariner at the end of the 1980s, to give the Sub a refresh. And so a new case design that flowed a little more fluidly was designed with a new bezel and other updates to the then almost four-decade old dive watch. However, the new watch was seen as something beautiful, and so it was decided that it would be a new line: the Yacht-Master, which first appeared in 1992 in yellow gold as reference 16628. In 1994, the two-tone reference 16623 was launched and then the steel watch with platinum bezel and dial was unveiled in 1997.

Following a couple of dial refreshes and the introduction of the Yacht-Master II in 2007, it was 2015 before the Yacht-Master was revisited, and it was an Everose watch that also debuted the Oysterflex bracelet. The watch was fitted with a matte black Cerachrom insert, but still in the old-school style bezel ring. In 2017, a white gold Yacht-Master was introduced with a beefed-up 42mm case that was also on an Oysterflex bracelet. This year, Rolex added a 42mm Yacht-Master in yellow gold.

The most eye-catching Yacht-Master this year is a new gem-set white gold model, with diamond-set case and diamond and sapphire bezel. Following on from the so-called Tutti-Fruity colored sapphire bezel Everose Yacht-Master, there is a new kid in town in the form of the reference 126679 SABR, a new Yacht-Master 40. The bezel is set with set with eight trapeze-cut diamonds (approx. 0.92 carats), 32 trapeze-cut sapphires — eight pink, eight light blue, eight purple and eight dark blue — (approx. 4.27 carats) and one triangular diamond (approx. 0.15 carats) at 12 o’clock. The watch is also available with a full pavé dial… is there a better watch for summer?

Tech Specs

GMT-Master II Ref: Reference 126720 VTNR

Movement: Self-winding caliber 3285; 70 hours of power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds (hacking), date and 24-hour
Case: 40mm; Oystersteel with left-hand crown; water resistant to 100m
Dial: Black
Bracelet: Oyster bracelet in Oystersteel

Rolex Yacht-Master 40 Ref: Reference 126679 SABR

Movement: Self-winding caliber 3235; 70 hours of power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds (hacking)
Case: 40mm; 18K white gold; water resistant to 100m
Dial: Black
Bracelet: Oysterflex