With the addition of the HydroConquest GMT, a ‘true’ GMT and dive watch amalgamation, Longines continues its remarkable streak of releasing classic, accessible, and highly desirable timepieces. HydroConquest GMT comes in 4 variations with subtle sunray dials: Black with gray and orange accents, blue with aquamarine accents, brown and a bright, olive green, both with gold accents.
The business of watchmaking is one of small, intentional refinements, adding up generationally to create something that is, in the best cases, both distinct and timeless. It is by this often gradual process that pillars of collections are built. But every once in a while, a new design comes along that catapults a category or a model into another echelon. Such is the case with the all new
Longines HydroConquest GMT – a watch that takes a well-established staple of the Winged Hourglass’ offerings and elevates it through innovation and considerate design.
Longines HydroConquest GMT, green sunray with offset 24 hour scale
The Longines HydroConquest GMT in 2023
First introduced all the way back in 2007 (a time which is far less recently than some of us would care to admit). It was then and remains a relatively simple, relatively affordable, and generally approachable dive watch. Over the years additions would be made, broadening the appeal of the reference by way of additional colors and case sizes. Prominent numerals dominated the dials at 12, 6, and 9 o’clock, creating a sporty asymmetry – highly legible, if slightly crowded. With the addition of the HydroConquest GMT, Longines has brought several updates and refinements to the model.
Longines HydroConquest GMT, khaki green nato with green dial
Utilizing the Calibre L844.5 (an ETA derived movement exclusive to Longines), an automatic GMT with a date window at 3 o’clock and 72 hour power reserve. Gone are the prominent numerals, replaced instead by round luminous hour markers at 6 and 9, and a triangular marker at 12. Horological enthusiasts will be pleased to hear that the GMT function is a ‘true GMT’ meaning the hour hand to be changed independently to match local time zones. Longines of course is no stranger to functionality of a GMT, having been the first watch maker to create a watch capable of keeping track of two time zones simultaneously back in 1925.
Longines HydroConquest GMT, beige nato with brown dial
While the HydroConquest GMT now feature’s the iconic travel function, it does not sacrifice its functionality as a dive watch in doing so – the ceramic, unidirectional timing bezel remains to the benefit of scuba and desk divers alike. To account for the 24 hour timing function, the dial is framed by a two tone timing scale, punctuated with contrasting colors for legibility and differentiating day from night.
Longines HydroConquest GMT, beige nato with brown dial
Speaking of colors, the HydroConquest GMT comes in 4 variations with subtle sunray dials: Black with gray and orange accents, blue with aquamarine accents, brown and a bright, olive green, both with gold accents. For the black and blue variations, matching rubber straps with folding clasps accompany the steel bracelets. For the brown and green variations, khaki and beige nato straps with matching pin buckles are provided as alternatives.
Longines HydroConquest GMT, brown sunray with offset 24 hour scale
Our take on the Longines HydroConquest GMT
Notably absent here is the limited consideration of function normally seen on dive watches in their purest form – the simple utility and a state purpose, the hours, minutes, seconds, a timing bezel, and a depth rating. Noting it has often been joked that if one requires the knowledge of the date while underwater, well, they have much larger and more pressing problems. The same could also be said for knowing the time in a second time zone.
Longines HydroConquest GMT, black sunray with offset 24 hour scale
Longines HydroConquest GMT, black sunray with offset 24 hour scale
Such restrictive thinking, however, would prevent any additional utility or design from ever coming to be. Indeed, the HydroConquest GMT is meant for more than mere pigeonholing – this is more than a GMT, more than a dive watch. It is a go anywhere, do anything watch. It is a watch aimed squarely at those who want a companion timepiece, on that can be worn effortlessly in virtually any setting. Owing to its construction and functions, it achieves this. It’s a perfect addition to Longines’ offerings which, for the past several releases, have felt largely focused on the reinterpretation of heritage watches (spectacular reinterpretations, it should be noted). The HydroConquest GMT, however, feels like a fully fleshed out, updated, and modern adventure watch.
Longines HydroConquest GMT, black sunray with offset 24 hour scale, black rubber with folding clasp
For those wanting the HydroConquest to stand out as more of an accessory, the variety of colorways and subtle tonal accents via the dial and 24 hour chapter ring, also achieves the goal. In other words, is not a watch pure solely around function and otherwise lacking in charm. On the contrary, due to its balances aesthetics and possessing a certain classic, rugged appeal, the HydroConquest will undoubtedly, for many, be “their watch”. That is to say, their one watch, their only watch, the watch that they adorn day after day, steadfast and reliable in its utility, and pleasing in its classic good looks.
Longines HydroConquest GMT, blue sunray with offset 24 hour scale
Longines HydroConquest GMT, blue sunray with offset 24 hour scale
Longines HydroConquest GMT
Longines HydroConquest GMT
Longines HydroConquest GMT Specifications and Price
Movement: Calibre L844.5 Automatic winding movement with 72 hour power reserve
Functions: Hour with quick set, Minutes, Seconds, GMT hand, Date
Case: 41mm Stainless steel, uni-directional ceramic timing bezel, screw down crown, screw down caseback
Dial: Black sunray with offset 24 hour scale, blue sunray with offset 24 hour scale, green sunray with offset 24 hour scale, brown sunray with offset 24 hour scale.
Straps: Black Rubber with folding clasp (black dial), Blue Rubber with folding clasp (blue dial), khaki green nato with green dial, beige nato with brown dial, stainless steel bracelets with double-safety folding clasp and micro-adjustment
Price: USD 2,775 on bracelet or rubber strap, USD 2,675 on NATO
