For Watches & Wonders 2023, independent watchmaker Laurent Ferrier plays to its strengths and refines its popular designs with a thoughtful makeover. The latest Classic & Square Micro-Rotor Evergreen are equipped with all the strengths of Laurent Ferrier, namely an exquisite movement and a sumptuous case design, while being upgraded with a dark green minimalist dial that makes them an excellent iteration of a great timepiece.

The Low-Down

A distinctive trait of Laurent Ferrier is the unique case design. While taking on classic shapes like round and square, Laurent Ferrier adds a pebble-like touch, resulting in a distinctive look that can be described as organic and curved.

It’s clear that Laurent Ferrier understands the appeal of its case design and now matches it with a refreshing and natural green dial. The case shape and green dial go hand in hand in terms of an earthy, relaxed look and feel, which is channelled thanks in part to the high execution — the case is nicely polished while the dial has subtle vertical brushing, adding to the appeal.

It’s not just about looks. Both the Classic and Square watches are powered by the brand’a signature micro-rotor movement. Designed by LA Fabrique du Temps, the FBN 229.01 manages to balance classic and innovative elements. It has a nice, classical layout with exquisite finishing, yet boasts new details like the novel construction with a bridge to showcase the micro-rotor, as well as the intriguing natural escapement with silicon pallet fork. The natural escapement is uncommon in watchmaking, and this iteration is particularly unusual because the escape wheel features vertical teeth, which resemble Breguet’s original design from the late 18th century.

IMHO

While the this pair of Laurent Ferrier watches may not be the most groundbreaking release from the brand, they nonetheless stand out with their own unique charm. The signature design and finishing are already excellent, and the addition of a natural green dial creates a refreshing aesthetic that perfectly aligns with the brand’s style, resulting in one of the most attractive iterations of the micro rotor.

It’s important to recognize the value of refining an already outstanding watch, as there will always be collectors interested in owning one. This is especially true for this watch because of its micro-rotor movement, which is among the finest on the market. It’s logical for Laurent Ferrier to continue releasing new iterations to cater to different tastes, although fans of the brand would have hoped to see a more innovative breakthrough. Regardless of the broader context, it’s a joy to appreciate the beautiful Evergreen designs we see today, especially the red gold version that has a striking and warm allure.

Tech Specs

Laurent Ferrier Classic & Square Micro Rotor Evergreen

Movement: FBN 229.01; automatic; 72 hours power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, roulette automaton, and tourbillon
Case: 41 mm x 11 mm (Square) or 40 mm x 11 mm (Classic); steel (Square) or 18k red gold (Classic); water resistant to 30 m
Strap: Brown calf leather