Introducing the Nomos Lambda in Steel

Introducing the Nomos Lambda in Steel

The Lambda has always been something of an outlier in Nomos’ assortment — cased in precious metal and with a sticker price well above the Glashütte-based brand’s regular offerings. But now, in honour of the 175th anniversary of the arrival of watchmaking in the German town of Glashütte, Nomos has released a trio of limited-edition Lambdas — in steel.

Nomos Lambda in Steel

Before we get to the new case material, we have to talk about what makes the Lambda a special watch in the Nomos family, and that’s its movement. The DUW 1001 calibre is quite unlike the majority of the brand’s movements. It is the first calibre to bear the ‘Deutsche Uhrenwerke NOMOS Glashütte’ marking, the DUW 1001 is a large, slender, manually-wound movement finished to a degree above what is typical for Nomos.

Six of the 29 jewels are set in hand-polished chatons, and the large, traditionally German, three-quarter plate looks stunning with the sunray finish in Nomos perlage. The balance cock with its swan-neck adjustment system is hand-inscribed with “Mit Liebe in Glashütte Gefertigt” — German for “Lovingly produced in Glashütte”.

Nomos Lambda in Steel
Nomos Lambda in Steel

The finishing of the movement lends credibility to that statement, but an equally accurate inscription could have been ‘ingeniously engineered in Glashütte’. The DUW 1001 manages to pack in a very respectable 84 hours — or 3.5 days — into the twin barrels. Every single one of those hours matter when it comes to the dial side of the watch.

Nomos Lambda in Steel

The massive 297-degree power reserve indicator absolutely dominates the top half of the dial, the scale of which means that every single hour will be clearly marked. The result is a very accurate power reserve indicator, which, along with the smaller seconds below and the ultra-thin handset gives the dial (in white, black or a very Nomos shade of blue), a regulator, or even a scientific feel. The aesthetic is still very Nomos, but there’s none of the fun and whimsy evident on the dial that you expect from their more casual watches.

While the dial design is fundamentally the same as previous model Lambda’s, the case is, as we gave away in the lead — steel. In addition, these limited editions are in a completely new case size — 40.5mm, down from the previous 42mm case. The changed case is significant for several reasons — it tones down the proportions of the watch, which — thanks to the expansive dial, wears quite large, and perhaps more importantly, adds some everyday durability to the watch that gold doesn’t provide. And finally, it means that the Lambda, which represents the pinnacle of Nomos’ watchmaking craft, is more accessibly priced than ever before.

Nomos Lambda in Steel
Nomos Lambda in Steel

Technical Specifications

Movement

Calibre DUW 1001, manually wound with 84 hours of power reserve, swan neck fine adjustment, adjusted to chronometer standards, hours and minutes, power reserve and small seconds

Case

Polished steel, 40.5mm

Dial

Offered in enamel white, enamel black and enamel blue

Strap

Cordovan with winged clasp

Price

Each dial is limited to 175 pieces, Euro 5,800

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Felix Scholz

Felix Scholz has spent the last decade covering watches from his home in Australia. Given this, it's surprising that he still struggles with time zones. Over the years he's become a firm believer that less is more when it comes to watch design – except when a rainbow bezel is involved. He's written for numerous titles including Hodinkee, GQ, A Collected Man and more. These days he looks after the Australian edition of Revolution and takes a break from writing about watches to talk about them, as the co-host of OT: The Podcast.

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