Big and bold are two words that can easily be used to describe Breitling watches over the years. Never have they been more fitting adjectives than when applied to the new Super Chronomat with a 44mm case and a choice of either stainless steel or red gold. And for those who are looking for a little more, there is also a “semi-perpetual calendar” option, for when you’re expecting that adventure to last that little bit longer maybe.
The Chronomat was first unveiled in its current guise in 1984, as part of Breitling’s centenary celebrations. It has been often said that the watch rescued the brand from the doldrums of the 1970s quartz crisis. The watch was inspired by the Italian aerobatic team, the Frecce Tricolori, which also gives the watch a nice military link. In fact, the name Chronomat was first used by the brand back in 1942, when it was the name for a watch that was a predecessor of the Navitimer, complete with logarithmic scales on the dial and a moving bezel that essentially gave one a slide rule on the wrist. The Super Chronomat is firmly a descendent of the 1984 watch of the same name and features two of the signature features always seen on the Chronomat, the so-called rider tabs on the bezel and the “onion” winding crown.
The rider tabs have a dual, or arguably triple, purpose. Firstly, they are there to protect the crystal and secondly they allow the wearer, in theory a pilot, to easily operate the bezel whilst wearing gloves. On the Super Chronomat, the rider tabs have superluminova painted numerals at 15, 30 and 45. The 15 and 45 rider tabs are interchangeable and can be swapped over to allow the user to either count down or count up, as you prefer. On the subject of the bezel, the insert is ceramic for the first time on a Chronomat and is available in either blue or black with matching dial in the steel watches. The red gold version has a brown bezel, again ceramic, and dial combination which is a great looking combination to my eye.
When it comes to strap options, Breitling have a real treat in store in the shape of a small UTC module built into the Rouleaux bracelet. The UTC module is a small quartz watch that allows the wearer to monitor a second timezone and has been an option on certain Breitling watches since the 1980s. Talking about the Rouleaux bracelet, this was reintroduced last year having been an iconic part of the Chronomat in the 1980s and it is used on all versions of the new Super Chronomat including the red gold. For a more casual and sportier look, Breitling has created a rubber strap that is inspired by the Rouleaux bracelet with contrasting textures that works well in either black or blue on the steel models and brown for the red gold.
Finally, special mention must be made of the “semi-perpetual calendar” or to give it its formal moniker, the Super Chronomat 44 Four-Year Calendar. This watch features day, date and moth plus a moon phase indicator and needs adjusting once every four years during a leap year. The calendar watches have a subtle ton-sur-ton dial and are both in steel and red gold configurations with ceramic inserts, in red gold bezels. The steel case features red gold pushers and are again available with either a steel and gold Rouleaux bracelet or rubber strap.
Tech Specs
Super Chronomat B01 44
Movement: Breitling Manufacture Caliber 01, COSC certified with 70-hour power reserve
Case and dial: 44mm steel or red gold with ceramic bezel insert. Steel available with black or blue dial with matching bezel. Red gold has brown dial and ceramic bezel. All dials have Super-LumiNova as do the rider tabs on the bezel.
Strap: Steel Rouleaux bracelet with butterfly clasp or injection-moulded rubber strap with Rouleaux bracelet design with folding clasp.
The UTC model has a 26mm Caliber 61 driven watch built into the bracelet.
Availability and pricing: Available now; CHF 8,300 on the rubber strap; CHF 8,700 on the Rouleaux bracelet and CHF 9,900 for the version with the UTC module on the Rouleaux bracelet; CHF 22,900 for the red gold version on the rubber strap and CHF 34,000 for the version on the red gold version on the red gold bracelet.
Super Chronomat 44 Four-Year Calendar
Movement: Breitling Caliber 19, COSC certified with 42 hour power reserve with day, date, month and moon phase indicator.
Case and dial: 44mm steel case with ceramic bezel insert with 18kt gold elements. The dials has Super-LumiNova as do the rider tabs on the bezel.
Strap: Steel Rouleaux bracelet with butterfly clasp or injection-moulded rubber strap with Rouleaux bracelet design with folding clasp.
Availability and pricing: Available now; CHF 14,300 for the black dial version on the rubber strap and CHF 14,900 for the version on the Rouleaux bracelet; CHF 15,500 for the blue dial version on the rubber strap and CHF 16,900 for the two-tone Rouleaux bracelet.
