The Low-Down

Much of Montblanc’s watchmaking offering is of a less complicated nature. The 1858 Geosphere offers a novel take on a dual timer, and the brand’s Minerva-based chronographs are flawless examples of the genre. But by and large, Montblanc does not dip its toes too deeply into the world of high-end mechanical complication. Two very notable exceptions are the Metamorphosis and the Exo Tourbillon. And now there are two brand-new examples, and they’re stunning.

IMHO

First up, the Star Legacy Metamorphosis Limited Edition 8. Believe it or not, this incredible watch first debuted in 2010. There’s a lot of high watchmaking packed into this watch, and we’ll break down those elements in a minute. But before we get there, the overall picture is of a big 50mm (and 18.9mm tall!) white gold watch that is the definition of a statement piece. Montblanc makes the most of the case, though, packing it full of features, most notably the one which, when the slide on the side of the case is deployed, sees the watch dramatically change its face, revealing the full Exo Tourbillon and the aventurine disc displaying the night sky and moon phases around the realistic, Northern Hemisphere globe which serves as a 24-hour scale with day/night indication. Make no mistake, this is a very niche watch, but it’s an impressive reminder of just what Montblanc is capable of.

Slightly less complicated — after all, not everyone needs to change the face of their watch on a moment’s notice is the Star Legacy Suspended Exo Tourbillon Limited Edition 18. This strikingly designed watch demonstrates Montblanc’s ability to calmly combine traditional aesthetics with innovative design. From the dial side, the titular Suspended Exo Tourbillon commands as much real-estate as the time display at 12. And while the time is useful information, it’s the Exo Tourbillon that captures your attention. The party trick of the Exo Tourbillon is that the oversized balance wheel sits on top of the tourbillons rotating cage. This novel (and patented) construction allows for a plus-sized balance wheel, suspended 3.2mm over the dial for visual impact and improved isochronism (as well as allowing for a more compact cage). Having said that, the 44.8mm white gold watch is hardly petite, but with the exemplary finishing and aventurine backdrop, it sure is pretty.

Tech Specs

Montblanc Star Legacy Metamorphosis Limited Edition 8

Movement: Montblanc Manufacture Calibre MB M67.60, mechanical movement with manual winding mechanism, patented one-minute Exo Tourbillon, world time and realistic moon phase indication, Off-centre hour- and minute-hands, small seconds at 12 o’clock; Closed face: world time with Northern Hemisphere globe surrounded by a 24-hour scale and day/night indication. Open face: one-minute patented Exo Tourbillon, Northern Hemisphere globe surrounded by the sky on an aventurine disc showing the stars and the realistic moon phases, date display at 12 o’clock

Case and dial: 18 K white gold, polished case, Diameter 50 mm; Height 18.9 mm, Blue base with hand-made “grain d’orge” guilloché pattern in places, rhodium-coated Arabic numerals, 18 K white gold hour- and minute-hands, stainless steel second hand, filet sauté guilloché around the dial, hand-engraved and hand-painted three- dimensional northern hemisphere globe showing the continents and oceans, aventurine disc representing the sky with the moon and stars

Strap: Blue Sfumato alligator strap with 18 K white gold triple folding clasp

Price and availability: Limited to 8 pieces, Euro 250,000

Montblanc Star Legacy Suspended Exo Tourbillon Limited Edition 18

Movement: Montblanc Manufacture Calibre MB M16.68, Mechanical movement with manual winding mechanism, patented one-minute Suspended Exo Tourbillon with one arm-bridge at 6 o’clock, off-centered hours and minutes, small second at 6 o’clock.

Case and dial: 18K white gold, polished case, diameter 44.8 mm ; Height 15.03 mm, dial silvery-white with sandblasted finishing and aventurine, domed hour and minute-counter with an azuré motif in the center and an opaline decoration on the external ring.

Strap: Blue Sfumato alligator-skin strap with a 18K white gold triple folding clasp

Price and availability: Limited to 18 pieces, Euro 109,000