Geneva Watch Days 2023: Here’s the Full List of New Novelties
The much-awaited Geneva Watch Days returns in its fourth edition, with an impressive lineup of nearly 40 esteemed watch brands converging against the picturesque backdrop of Lake Geneva.
Here we are! Geneva Watch Days 2023 takes its place on the watch calendar with a fourth unforgettable installment from August 29 to September 2. This year’s exhibition will be the biggest yet, with nearly 40 watch brands showcasing their latest releases at the Rotonde du Mont-Blanc pavilion on Lake Geneva, as well as at boutiques and venues throughout the city.
As the pavilion’s doors swing open to the public on August 30, enthusiasts and the curious alike can stroll through the captivating universe of watchmaking. Free guided tours will whisk visitors through a journey of craftsmanship, starting at the pavilion and venturing into brands’ boutiques and showrooms. On September 2, the salon will fling its doors wide open to all, inviting one and all to revel in educational experiences, and join in jubilant celebrations.
Wondering how it all started? Read our report from 2020 here.
Here at REVOLUTION, we’re bringing you the complete list of novelties from 39 participating brands at Geneva Watch Days 2023.
Keep up with us as we update this list live during the course of Geneva Watch Days 2023.
Bulgari: Octo Finissimo, Serpenti, Monete Catene
Bulgari releases six new timepieces, featuring the latest renditions of the Octo Finissimo and Serpenti, plus the all-new Monete Catene collection. We took a closer look at the new Bulgari novelties here but here’s a rundown. First off, the Automatic and Perpetual Calendar models of the iconic Octo Finissimo line suit up with carbon exoskeletons along with rose gold details.
Next, two new looks adorn the Serpenti Misteriosi jewelry watches. One in a diamond-set in white gold, and the other in rose gold with black lacquer and diamond scales.
And last and certainly not least, two variations of the Monete Catene Secret Watch that’s reminiscent of Roman jewelry — the Monete Catene secret watch and Monete Catene Dual Time.
Massena Lab x Sylvain Pinaud: Chronograph Monopoussoir
Massena LAB introduces the exquisite Chronograph Monopoussoir First Edition, a limited collection of 10 timepieces created in collaboration with independent French watchmaker Sylvain Pinaud. The highlight? The Chronograph Monopoussoir revisits its original manual-wind chronograph movement conceived by Pinaud himself. There’s an amazing backstory that we’ve detailed here.
This limited First Edition embraces a refined titanium case that magnificently frames the openworked dial, which in turn houses hand-finished elements by the work of Comblémine, the renowned dial factory owned by Kari Voutilainen.
De Bethune: DB28XP Kind of Blue
De Bethune introduces its latest masterpiece, the DB28XP Kind of Blue. Crafted from blued titanium, the watch’s deep blue hue is achieved through natural oxidation, rendering each piece a unique work of art. The Microlight dial modernizes the traditional guilloché technique, introducing shadow and light play that adds depth and architectural dynamism. Check out the full details in our story here.
De Bethune’s venture into ultra-thin watches led to the DB28XP’s launch in 2020, symbolizing a decade of mechanical and aesthetic exploration. The manual-winding movement DB2115v12 features De Bethune’s distinctive balance wheel, visible through a dial opening at 6 o’clock. This balance wheel, constructed with titanium and gray gold weights, reflects precision and reliability advancements, leading to a 20% increased power reserve efficiency. The watch is limited to 25 pieces.
Ulysse Nardin: Blast Free Wheel Marquetry
In a daring melding of technology and art, Ulysse Nardin’s Blast Free Wheel Marquetry timepiece pays homage to the iconic Freak movement that introduced silicon to watchmaking in 2001. The first glance goes to the dial that’s made up of specifically 103 blue marquetry slivers and are assembled to create a mosaic of matt and mirror-polished surfaces. We talk about it full detail here.
The UN-176 Manufacture caliber on display showcases the intricate mechanics including the tourbillon, Ulysse Anchor Constant Escapement, barrel, and power reserve indicator, suspended over the mesmerizing mosaic without visible attachments. This unconventional timepiece resides in a white gold 45mm Blast case with negative angle facets, a masterpiece of laser-cut complexity.
Greubel Forsey: New Balancier Convexe models in carbon
We have the full details on Greubel Forsey’s latest — the carbon models of the Balancier Convexe S² and Double Balancier Convexe — here, but here’s a quick run-down.
At 41.5mm, the complex geometry of the Balancier Convexe S² case demanded a delicate equilibrium of temperature and pressure to shape Greubel Forsey’s signature convexe case. The timepiece’s contouring extends to the display and case back, embracing the wrist with unparalleled comfort and housing the ingeniously redesigned 30° Inclined Balance Wheel. With this, the Balancier Convexe S²’s intricate mechanics and aesthetics culminate in its limited edition production of 22 pieces each.
The new carbon Double Balancier Convexe is available in two striking variations. The first boasts an iridescent green finish, punctuated by rich blue tones on the main bridge and power reserve display, harmonizing with a rubber strap in the same hue. The second version showcases the versatility of black carbon fiber. The heart of the timepiece features Greubel Forsey’s signature Double Balancier mechanism. Also limited to 22 pieces of each variation.
Czapek: Place Vendôme Complicité
The Place Vendôme has served many a muse, and for Czapek, it’s ingrained in both the christening and architecture of the latest novelty, Place Vendôme Complicité. The watch is produced in two versions – an 18-carat rose gold case with a blue galvanic-treated dial, and the other an 18-carat white gold case with a silver galvanic-treated dial – and limited to 50 pieces each.
The watch is a unique rendition of a double escapement mechanism conceived in 1930, where twin oscillators that operate independently are elegantly reconciled by a 12 o’clock differential. The openworked mechanism puts on quite a show, a result of établissage. If you’re wondering why the watch needs two balances, then we got it covered here.
Girard-Perregaux: Laureato Absolute Chronograph 8Tech
Girard-Perregaux expands the Laureato Absolute collection with the Laureato Absolute 8Tech, a timepiece crafted from a carbon and titanium composite. The marbled appearance, which the manufacture likens to Damascus steel, not only creates a unique structural pattern, but lends weight (only metaphorically) in the striking 44mm case, as well as adding comparable strength and rigidity.
Girard-Perregaux has utilized this composition when they created the Aston Martin F1 Edition, which in itself was a thematic execution well done considering its injections of green to symbolize the racing team’s green livery. This particular 8Tech however, is all GP’s own, and the sandblasted, gray-gradient dial slides in well with the monochromatic outfit.
We take a closer look at the new 8Tech here.
Oris: An Aquis collaboration, and new additions to the AquisPro and Artelier
Headlining Oris’ new novelties is the new Aquis in collaboration with Bracenet. The social enterprise began making bracelets out of upcycled ghost nets, and now they’ve upcycled that into unique dials for the new Oris Aquis model. Available in two sizes — 36.5mm and 43.5mm — the stainless steel watches sport uni-directional rotating bezels and are water resistant up to 300m.
We discuss the dial process and the full story here.
Oris also introduces the AquisPro 4000m where, as the name suggests, boasts a water resistance of up to 4,000 meters. The titanium case incorporates Oris-patented features, such as the Rotation Safety System bezel and the security folding clasp extension system. Powered by the Oris Calibre 400 movement, this timepiece offers a five-day power reserve and elevated anti-magnetism, all fronted by a blue gradient dial with a matching blue ceramic bezel.
In parallel, Oris extends the Artelier collection with new Artelier S models. Here, the features are scaled back: a minute track close to the periphery, slim baton hands, and a sunray-finished dial in colors of black or forest green.
Armin Strom: One Week First Edition
Armin Strom reinvigorates its horological legacy with the launch of the One Week First Edition. Originally introduced as the One Week in 2010, this updated incarnation ushers in a fresh era of design and construction. We give you the low-down on the watch here.
The First Edition preserves the distinctive seven-day power reserve with the manual-winding ARM21 caliber that features twin mainspring barrels. Production of this timepiece is limited to just 25 pieces. And hopping on the bandwagon of ice blue faces, the One Week First Edition brightens up its mechanical workings with light blue PVD-coloured mainplate and bridges.
Laurent Ferrier: Sport Auto 40
Laurent Ferrier unveils the latest addition to its iconic “Série Atelier” collection, the Sport Auto 40, paying homage to its founders’ history in motorsport. Drawing inspiration from the Porsche 935 Turbo No. 40, the timepiece boasts a viridian green dial with an opaline finish, recalling the racing car’s livery. Conventional Laurent Ferrier it is not, which we talk about here.
Powered by the LF270.01 calibre, the watch showcases meticulous finishing and is limited to 40 numbered pieces, which is posed to be available exclusively on the brand’s website.
Ressence: Type 3 EE
Ressence enriches its core range with the TYPE 3 EE, featuring a captivating Eucalyptus Green hue. This color addition brings a refreshing twist to the highly legible and unconventional TYPE 3 watch, thanks to the oil-filled surface that cancels light refraction distortion.
The TYPE 3 EE introduces subtle modifications, including simplified hour disc indexes, pastel tones for weekend days and oil temperature indications. The new Eucalyptus Green TYPE 3 complements the existing Black and White models, and is slated for global release in October 2023 through Ressence’s official retailers. Read all about the watch’s new details here.
Louis Erard: La Petite Seconde Metropolis Louis Erard x The Horophile
The Louis Erard x The Horophile is based on the Louis Erard Petite Seconde but reimagined with a touch of neo-deco style. Typography played a pivotal role in the design, with a focus on reinterpreting Art Deco numerals. The watch also boasts “Empire” baton hands, inspired by the iconic Empire State Building.
With three variations – slate, salmon, and tobacco – and harmonious tones extending to the grained calfskin straps, each watch is produced in a limited production of 178 pieces, including a one-of-a-kind model for The Horophile. Check out the full details of the watch here.
Trilobe: Nuit Fantastique Brume
Trilobe unveils the new Nuit Fantastique Brume, available in two sizes — 38.5mm & 40.5mm. It boasts the unconventional time display where it’s read within circles: The hours along the rotating periphery, the minutes within the round aperture, and the seconds wheel around a Clous de Paris disc. The dial’s expanse makes way for the beautiful Grain d’Orge guilloché.
As the first watches assembled in the brand’s new Parisian atelier, the movement is signed ‘Paris, France’, visible through the caseback. The watch uses a new X-Centric movement, which you can read all about here.
Jacob & Co.: ‘The World Is Yours’ Dual Time Zone
Jacob & Co. debuts a stylish dual time zone watch that’s inspired by an heirloom timepiece. In fact, it’s the very watch that inspired Jacob Arabo to build his eponymous empire, which we wrote about here. ‘The World Is Yours’ Dual Time Zone is the first timepiece from the new The World Is Yours collection.
Against a bright blue lacquered dial and the curvature that’s reminiscent of the Earth, detailed rose gold engravings echo the topography of our planet. Powering this is the manufacture self-winding JCAA11 caliber with a 42-hour power reserve.
MB&F: Horological Machine No.9 ‘Sapphire Vision’
What would you do if you said you had the most beautiful movement you ever made? Well, you’d show it off in its entirety. Enters MB&F who introduces two new editions in the HM9 Sapphire Vision’s ranks. Debuting a PVD-coated blue engine with a white gold frame, and a PVD-coated green engine with a yellow gold frame, the HM9-SV continues the series MB&F first introduced in 2021, in showcasing extraordinary savoir-faire.
This mechanical marvel draws from the expertise of 20 distinct movements. Its double-balance wheel system with planetary differential pays homage to Legacy Machine N°2, but with a unique twist of expressive design. The intricate curvature of the sapphire crystal shows off every inch of the complex HM9 movement, a component that requires approximately 350 hours of careful machining and polishing alone. The HM9 Sapphire Vision now totals six editions, each one limited to only five pieces.
H. Moser & Cie: New Endeavour Models in Vantablack®
The awe-inspiring darkness of Vantablack® returns as the canvas for H. Moser & Cie.’s new Endeavour models. Introducing the Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Vantablack® and Endeavour Centre Seconds Vantablack®, the ultra-black coating once again lays claim to the brand’s signature aesthetics. In other words, the absence of overt logos underscores the notion that the authenticity and craftsmanship of H. Moser & Cie are immediately recognizable.
We took a close look at the new H. Moser & Cie novelties here.
Urwerk: UR-100V Stardust
Urwerk sets the UR-100V on ice, and produces the UR-100V Stardust. 400 brilliant diamonds adorn the case’s beveled profile in a snow-setting, including a ring along the minute track, on the crown, and two rows on the steel pin buckle.
Alpina: A first Startimer Worldtimer and new Heritage models
Alpina introduces a novel complication to its Startimer collection, unveiling the Worldtimer. While it’s designed to provide quick access to 24 reference time zones along the dial’s periphery, the timepiece is a quartz-powered one. The concentric circle dial showcases luminescent Arabic numerals for hours, minutes, and date at the center, along with a sector dial indicating 24 hours in white and blue (or red and green) segments.
In celebration of its 140th anniversary, Alpina pays homage to its rich heritage by introducing two contemporary variations of the Alpiner Heritage Carrée Automatic 140 Years. Evoking the Art Déco spirit of their origins, the minimalist rectangular cases exhibit a sector dial, period Arabic numerals, dauphine hands, and the original Alpina logo. Each watch runs on the self-winding AL-530 mechanical caliber.
Angelus: Chronodate Titanium Storm Blue Edition
Angelus introduces a new addition to its Chronodate family, the Titanium Storm Blue. This sporty men’s timepiece is fashioned with a 42.5 mm satin-finished titanium case and matching bracelet, creating a harmonious canvas for the storm blue dial and its snailed metallic black chronograph sub-counters.
The watch’s modular multi-structure case, crafted from lightweight carbon-fiber composite, houses Angelus’ proprietary caliber A-500, powering the main hours, small seconds, a peripheral pointer date hand, and the 30-minute chronograph function, that’s operated via carbon composite push-pieces.
Arnold & Son: New DSTB models in 42mm and a ladies’ Perpetual
Arnold & Son takes a nostalgic journey while embracing innovation with its refreshed DSTB 42 collection, an abbreviation for ‘Dial-Side True Beat’. The redesigned case and the Manufacture calibre A&S6203 with a 55-hour power reserve, demonstrate the brand’s commitment to precision and aesthetics. The collection offers two limited series: the DSTB 42 Red Gold with a blue dial and the DSTB 42 Platinum featuring a ‘salmon’ dial treatment.
For the ladies, the Perpetual Moon 38 Mintnight features a mesmerizing interplay of mint green, turquoise, teal, and sky blue hues on the dial crafted from graduated mother-of-pearl. The night sky comes alive with the moonphase complication made of a ruthenium moon (where it also makes up the dial’s foreground), and further adorned with sparkling diamonds on the bezel, horns, and hour-markers. Housing the A&S1612 calibre, this manually wound movement boasts an impressive 90-hour power reserve.
New entry Artime, a brand founded by six industry veterans, namely: Fabrice Deschanel, Didier Bretin, Manuel Thomas, Claude Emmenegger, Emmanuel Jutier and Stéphane Maturel, introduce the ART01 wristwatch.
Its debut, a time-telling watch with a tourbillon, is a sandwiched construction of sapphire crystal and titanium. The round form showcases monobloc lugs housing a white gold movement with a one-minute tourbillon regulator and function selector – the latter that seeks to eliminates the drawbacks and awkwardness of a conventional crown. Hence operating the ART01 is via a push button to control the function selector at three positions – neutral, winding, setting – symbolized as ‘N’ for neutral (or normal operation), ‘R’ for ‘remontage’ or winding, and ‘H’ for ‘heure’ or setting the time. This system is not new, but it so happens that Artime’s founding members are its original inventors.
Bianchet: Flying Tourbillon Grande Date B1.618
Bianchet introduces the Flying Tourbillon Grande Date B1.618, showcasing a skeleton movement. Its distinctive design draws inspiration from aviation, where the case is crafted from a Titanium-Dust-High-Density Carbon composite.
Meticulous hand-finishing, titanium tourbillon cage, and an openworked big date further enhance the watch’s mechanical charm. The watch is limited to 200 pieces.
Claude Meylan: Lionnes Dentelles
Named after La Lionne, a river flowing through L’Abbaye, Claude Meylan’s birthplace and heritage location, the Lionnes Dentelles collection features delicate skeleton movements adorned with soft watercolors. These timepieces, available in pink, lilac, and royal blue, sport a 35mm steel case and frame the watch’s skeletonized workings.
Where the lilac and pink models are adorned with a pastel flange, the royal blue version features a white flange to harmonize with the Vallée de Joux’s landscape. The watches are dressed in various straps and bracelets, including steel mesh, satin, and Alcantara.
Corum: Concept Watch
This is probably the only concept watch at the fair so far (at this time of writing), and for Corum, they’ve gone forward with a movement-leading display. Arguably, the shapely case (crafted from recycled titanium grade 5 case) doesn’t take the fantasy too far as it is distinctively Corum, but what the watch houses is a flying tourbillon movement surrounded by sapphire plates, creating a visually captivating floating effect.
The aventurine stone dial adds celestial beauty, reminiscent of a meteor shower. On the caseback, etched notes highlight the mechanics and functionalities of the watch, which takes the concept design quite literally, but we have to say is a welcome one.
Doxa: SUB 300β Sharkhunter
DOXA harks back to its iconic 1967 SUB concept with the launch of the SUB 300β Sharkhunter. Famed for pioneering the professional diving watch, the SUB series revolutionized the industry with its breakthroughs. This latest offering carries forward that legacy, housed in a meticulously designed black ceramic case juxtaposed with 18K 3N gold components for a dazzling contrast.
The watch retains its renowned unidirectional rotating bezel with dual dive time and depth indications, a COSC-certified Swiss automatic movement, and a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal. This refined iteration, with a slimmer profile and modern elegance, comes on a comfortable black FKM rubber strap. The watch will be available for purchase in October through official DOXA Watches points of sale and their e-commerce platform.
Frederique Constant: Classic Power Reserve Big Date Manufacture
In celebration of its 35th anniversary, Frederique Constant introduces the Classic Power Reserve Big Date Manufacture that showcases their 31st in-house caliber, the FC-735. At 40mm, the watch cleanly displays the main hours, a power reserve indicator, big date, and a moon phase.
The collection comprises four editions, starting with steel cases with blue or silver dials in the standard collection, a rose gold version with gray anthracite dial variant is limited to 350, and the exclusive platinum and meteorite dial version is limited to 35 pieces.
Hautlence: SPHERE Series 1
Hautlence presents the avant-garde Sphere Series 1, introducing a mesmerizing twirling hour sphere that adds an architectural edge to its unique approach. The blue sphere, resembling a neo-futurist sculpture, rotates every hour through four conical gears, revealing the time with precision.
Adjacent to the sphere is a retrograde minute hand that moves along a slender track, exposing the intricate movement underneath. The steel case takes its residential rectangular shape, housing the hand-wound A80 caliber that provides a 72-hour power reserve.
HYT: Conical Tourbillon Infinity Sapphires
Merging animations, luxurious gemstones, and the innovation of a conical tourbillon with HYT’s fluidic mechanical technology, HYT introduces the Conical Tourbillon Infinity Sapphires watch. The retrograde fluidic hour indication and the conical tourbillon’s mesmerizing rotation are highlighted by three remarkable sapphires – fuchsia, blue-gray, and yellow – each rotating at varying speeds.
This avant-garde creation, housing the hand-wound 701 TC caliber, comprises an impressive 533-component assembly. The HYT Conical Tourbillon Infinity Sapphires is available in eight models, where seven of those offer freedom in the choice of sapphires.
Konstantin Chaykin: Kolobok
Once more donning a fresh face, the latest Wristmon from Konstantin Chaykin emerges as Kolobok, an iconic round golden-brown bun that hails from the pages of Russian folklore. This runaway treat managed to outsmart its prospective devourers, embarking on a journey far from home while deftly evading a series of animal adversaries, each hoping to take a bite of it.
The dial is executed with incredible nuance to attain a range of effects. The dial base, for instance, is slightly domed to give the effect of plump dough while sporting a fumé finish that transitions from a lighter shade at the center to a deeper hue at the edges to emulate the crust of freshly baked bread. Mother-of-pearl dust is also mixed into the varnish to attain a gentle luminosity. His pupils, which serve as the indicators for the hours and minutes, gleam in vivid blue on a glossy white backdrop, with the rim of the hour and minute scales extending slightly beyond the dial’s surface, evoking the appearance of pleasantly surprised, bulging eyes.
His wide grin reveals his pearly whites while also featuring a moonphase display consisting of two yellow, open-worked circles, superimposed on a day-of-the-week disc where characters from the fairytale – Grandpa, Grandma, the rabbit, wolf, bear, fox, and Kolobok – represent each day. Additionally, visible through the sapphire caseback is a 15-part gilded rotor with a bun resembling a sun at its hub, flanked by a hut on one side and a birch tree on the other. Measuring 40 mm by 12.6mm, the watch is in steel and is limited to 99 pieces.
Maurice Lacroix: Aikon Skeleton Urban Tribe
Following the success of the AIKON Urban Tribe, Maurice Lacroix unveils the AIKON Skeleton Urban Tribe, echoing the urban theme in a skeletonized form. The skeletonized movement shows off a custom-decorated oscillating weight and intricate graining.
Housed in a 39mm stainless steel case engraved with an urban motif, the timepiece features Super-LumiNova®-coated hands and luminescent indexes. The watch is limited to 500 pieces.
Perrelet: Turbine 41 Titanium
With the Turbine 41, Perrelet debuts a collection with a smaller case size. The turbine, a hallmark of the collection, has been meticulously redesigned to suit the new proportions. It comprises 12 black anodized aluminum blades with counterweights for fluid motion, rendering a distinctive identity to the watch.
The watch sports a titanium case and comes in ten references, with variations in case materials, colors, and strap options. The collection is powered by the self-winding P-331-MH caliber that’s both certified by COSC and Chronofiable.
The Raketa Watch Factory pays homage to the Soviet-era Lun-class Ekranoplan, a hybrid, experimental coastal defense vehicle built in the 1980s that defied categorization as half ship and half plane. Raketa’s new tool watch, the “Ekranoplan,” embodies this innovation and uniqueness. Crafted in a stainless steel case, the watch’s rotating bezel features metal from an original Ekranoplan, while its compass markings draw inspiration from the cockpit’s control panel.
An embossed Ekranoplan image graces the dial, and the back reveals a 24-hour automatic movement produced by the Raketa Watch Factory. Limited to 500 pieces.
Reservoir: Airfight Chronograph
Reservoir introduces the Airfight Chronograph. Drawing inspiration from the iconic P-51 Mustang aircraft, the dial echoes the aircraft’s instrument panel. Featuring aircraft-inspired details, with hands and sectors mimicking flight indicators, and a color code indicating status, with the inclusion of a retrograde complication.
The Airfight Chronograph is produced in two iterations, steel and steel with black PVD, and is set to land in stores and online in September 2023.
Singer: 1969 Collection
Singer Reimagined pays homage to the iconic design of 1960s and 70s timepieces with the 1969 collection, comprising a chronograph and a timekeeping watch. The brand first announced these back in June, but it was only shown to the public for the first time at the fair. The 1969 Chronograph features the Agengraphe caliber and a 60-hour chronograph function in a compact 40mm case, whereas the 1969 Timer boasts a zero-reset and flyback system.
These watches are designed with ergonomic considerations, featuring a stainless steel case with brushed and polished finishes, and a domed glass-box sapphire crystal. The movements, AGH 6365 and AGH 6363, are re-engineered versions of the award-winning Agengraphe and the versatile Flytrack, produced to Singer’s unique specifications by Agenhor. With a 72-hour power reserve and water resistance of 10 ATM/100m, Singer Reimagined’s 1969 collection blends retro aesthetics with modern functionality, celebrating the spirit of an iconic era.
|Movement||Self-winding caliber A-500; 60 hours power reserve|
|Functions||Hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph and date|
|Case||42.5mm; titanium; water resistant to 30m|
|Dial||Salmon (6N gold plated) with gené or frosted area; Super-LumiNova filled Arabic numerals|
|Strap||Ballistic gray rubber; titanium folding clasp|