Revolution
Exploring the Rolex Explorer
The story begins in 1952. It was a time when some of the world’s leading explorers were on the cusp of reaching the highest point on the planet — the peak of Mount Everest. Many attempts had been made and many lives lost, but the British mountaineers of the early 1950s were ultimately the men that would conquer the mighty mountain. Rolex was adamant that it wanted its watches on the summit and so, in 1952, the company equipped the British climbers with large Oyster watches. These watches were what collectors now refer to as pre-Explorers, essentially prototypes of what would ultimately become the Explorer.
The Big Eggs
In 1952, a number of climbers traveled to the Tibet/China border as part of a research trip in preparation for the 1953 assault on Everest. The destination was a mountain called Cho Oyu, 20km to the west of Everest. Included in the party were some of the key players in the famous 1953 expedition including Edmund Hillary, Charles Evans and Alfred Gregory. The watches given to these climbers were ref. 6098 big bubbleback watches. Newly uncovered documentation informs us that Rolex provided 20 of these 6098s for the team in two batches (the first seven in 1952 to the advance research team and the second batch to the remaining expedition members who did not go on the research trip).
Never standing still, this was a time of fast turnaround in research and development at Rolex, and later in 1953 Rolex launched the improved pre‑Explorer ref. 6298. This watch now had the new three-piece case with separate mid-case and bezel. The bezel was used to secure the new tropic crystals to the mid-case and create a watertight system. The previous Super Oyster Crown had proven prone to leakage and so the 6298s had the new “brevet”/ cross (+) 6mm screw-down crown. Still using the A296 calibre, the watch retained the large domed caseback and is very much an Ovettone. Both the 6098 and 6298 featured characteristically 1950s Rolex Oyster dials with closed minute track, applied arrow hour markers and applied Rolex coronet. Today, collectors refer to these as the “Everest” dials.
The official 3-6-9
While it had been used previously, Rolex officially rolled out the black “3-6-9” dial with refs. 6150 and 6350 – the successors of the 6098 and 6298. Again, both references used the A296 “big bubbleback” movement and the three-piece Ovettone cases. The difference was the dial layout. This was the true origin of what we see today on the Explorer. The inverted triangle at the top of the dial, printed Rolex text and coronet and the painted 3-6-9 numerals. The addition of Mercedes-pattern hands also came with refs. 6150 and 6350, although there were watches that were fitted with “pencil” hands, like those seen on the ref. 6204/5 Submariner too. The only difference between these two models was that the 6150 was designated “Precision” and the 6350 was chronometer rated and stamped with the words “Officially Certified Chronometer” (OCC). Yes, they used the same movement but the OCCs were fine-tuned to better precision. The 6350 was also the first reference to bear the mighty moniker — Explorer! To many collectors, this watch is the first proper Explorer. Collectors particularly look for the very rare version with a honeycomb dial; it is stunning.
The New Looks
The 6610 also fully embraced the standard Explorer aesthetic. The dials had the inverted triangle at 12 o’clock, the 3-6-9 numerals and the now-standard Mercedes hands. All the dials were “gilt,” referring in Rolex terms to the glossy black dials with text in a gold (gilt) colour. The text is not printed on the gloss, but is actually relief print and the gilt text is the brass baseplate of the dial showing through; a production method known as galvanic process. The dial then had a lacquer applied to protect it. There are some very rare 6610s that had an additional line of text printed on the top of the dial in either red or silver; namely a depth rating (50m = 165ft). This was a way for Rolex to demonstrate the capabilities of the watch for all sports and methods of exploration. Another rare version of the 6610 had a painted white seconds hand; with Rolex, it is always about the tiny details.
The Vintage Dilemma
Collectors of Rolex watches are divided about what actually constitutes a “vintage” piece. The majority would probably argue that the switch from acrylic crystals to sapphire is the cut-off. As time passes, however, the early sapphire-crystal watches are becoming more sought after as acrylic (or Plexi) Rolex watches gain spectacularly in value. Another key point to note is that quality control and production was much tighter at Rolex by the late 20th-century, and so the multitude of small variations seen between the 1950s and 1970s in sports watches was largely eradicated by the 1990s.
However, there are some interesting small differences in these models. One is the vintage-esque drilled lug holes seen on early 14270s, which were phased out relatively early in the watches’ run. In 1990 (where the corresponding Rolex serial numbers began with the letter “E”), the 14270 was produced with a dial version where the 3-6-9 numerals were filled with black enamel instead of tritium. This wasn’t received well and so Rolex reverted to filling the numerals with luminous material almost immediately. This version has been given the nickname “Blackout” by collectors and is probably the rarest modern Rolex watch.
Few and Far Between
All the watches discussed so far have been of very similar proportions, in that they were all 36mm cases with a 20mm lug width. There were Explorers made largely for the Commonwealth market that were a little smaller at 34mm and that have become a collecting theme in themselves. The majority of these Rolexes were sold in the UK and Canada and the sheer number of dial variations is staggering, with new, previously-unseen examples being found each year. The most common reference for these watches was 5500, which is famously the Air King reference and led to the collectors’ term “Air King Explorer” for these watches.
The most desirable of the 5500 Explorers is the black gilt dial 3-6-9 version. Identical in some ways to the reference 1016 gilt dial watches, the big difference was that these watches were not chronometer rated and so had the dial designation of “Precision” or “Super Precision.” The dials were manufactured using the galvanic process and are beautiful in their execution. Finding an original one is difficult, however, as the gilt dials are notoriously faked and so an expert eye is needed when buying one.
And finally, in 2010 Rolex supersized the Explorer with the ref. 214270 at Baselworld. Featuring the Calibre 3132, the watch was housed in a big 39mm case (nearly as big as a Submariner) and the word “Explorer” had been moved to the bottom half of the dial. The other noticeable change was the removal of luminous material (by now Rolex’s blue Chromalight) from the numerals, which were solid white gold — remind you of the “Blackout” 14270? The lack of luminous material in the 3-6-9 was not well received (and the hands were criticised as being too short) and so the dial and hands were reworked for the current version. Collectors take note — the Mk1 214270 is surely a future rarity.