Bvlgari’s focus on the Serpenti collection has intensified in recent months, marked by the introduction of their new Lady SoloTempo micro automatic-winding movement in the Serpenti Tubas and Serpenti Seduttori lines, revealed at LVMH 2025. In fact, this strong serpentine energy took the lead earlier this year when the brand celebrated the launch of their Serpenti Infinito high jewelry collection, unveiled at an elaborate exhibition in Shanghai.

Today, the unexpected reunion of Bvlgari and MB&F has transformed the iconic Serpenti into a dramatic reimagining of the serpentine motif into a steampunk Horological Machine: Welcome the Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti. 

For this second act, Bvlgari and MB&F together offer three distinct variations of their reimagined Serpenti: grade 5 titanium with “blue eyes”, black PVD-coated stainless steel with “red eyes”, and 18K rose gold with “green eyes”, each one restricted to just 33 pieces. 

Back in 2021, Bvlgari and MB&F debuted their first collaborative piece, the MB&F x Bvlgari LM FlyingT Allegra. The watch’s distinctive vertical architecture placed the central flying tourbillon front and center, leaving the rest of the space for Bvlgari’s precious stones thoughtfully arranged around the mechanical heart. 

This time around, Bvlgari’s Director of Watchmaking Creation, Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, shared that creating the new Serpenti “was a pleasure to design, but technically very challenging to produce.” The process apparently included hundreds of sketches and dozens of 3D-printed models that were required to perfect the case design.

“At MB&F we specialize in ‘kinetic sculptures which give time’ so it was definitely our calling,” said MB&F’s Maximilian Büsser. “Nevertheless, the biomorphic design of this watch created enormous challenges in terms of the case but also the movement. The intricate case is entirely machined with 5-axis 3D mills and holds the five sapphire crystals which were not only extremely complicated to make but equally challenging to fit due to the curved nature of the case and the desire for a water resistance of 30 meters.”

The watch displays main hours and minutes (power reserve indicator on the back) via a manual-winding movement developed in-house by MB&F. The Serpenti’s eyes serve as rotating hour and minute domes crafted from paper-thin aluminum; the left eye completes a rotation every 12 hours, while the right rotates hourly. An oversized 14mm flying balance wheel, beating at 2.5Hz, represents the creature’s brain, supported by a three-dimensional bridge bearing both brands’ signatures.

“The aim was to have a totally different vision,” said Stigliani. “The snake is a magnificent object that appeals to many collectors. I think we succeeded in giving the Bvlgari serpent a new horizon. It is not just a feminine object linked to the brand’s DNA but, for the first time, a technical object that speaks to the Bvlgari aesthetic and showcases MB&F’s expertise. Like all good collaborations, it is a win-win project.”

Tech Specs: Bvlgari × MB&F Serpenti

Movement: Manual-winding MB&F in-house movement; 45-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours and minutes; power reserve indicator
Case: 53mm × 39mm × 18mm; grade 5 titanium/stainless steel with black PVD/18K rose gold; water-resistant to 30m
Dial: Aluminum domed dials in blue/red/green
Strap: Rubber strap with velcro system in blue/black/green
Price: CHF 132,000 + VAT / USD 148,000 / EUR 140,000 + tax (titanium and stainless steel); CHF 152,000 + VAT / USD 170,000 / EUR 161,000 + tax (18K rose gold)
Availability: Limited to 33 pieces each