In two decades of working in the watch industry, never have I written so much in just six months about brands designing mechanical timepieces specifically for women. From a plethora of diminutive calibers being introduced in 2025, to brand new collections and line extensions being launched, it seems that the watch industry has at last given up on the questionable idea of the one-size-fits-all unisex wristwatch.

The most recent additions to the women’s watch party come from Blancpain in the form of two fascinating Fifty Fathoms Automatique models. The pair have a 38mm diameter and are 12mm high — a size that is sure to be appreciated not just by women, but by the growing number of collectors who have joined the clarion call for a more vintage-proportioned Fifty Fathoms.

Fifty Fathoms mother-of-pearl dégradé dials in flamingo pink and smoky black 

The watches are powered by the Blancpain Caliber 1153 automatic movement with a 100-hour power reserve and have a deep-diving water resistance of 300 meters (30 bar). Both have the signature unidirectional domed sapphire bezel with luminous timing markers. The Arabic numerals at 12, 3, 6, and 9, as well as the indexes and hands, are all lume-filled and the second hand has a distinctive red tip.

The main feature of the watches, however, is the mother-of-pearl dégradé dials. While not a complete first for the model — that honor belongs to the Fifty Fathoms Ocean Commitment III (BOC III) with blue mother-of-pearl dial that was released in 2018 in a limited edition of 250 pieces — it is certainly a departure from the norm, in terms of both material and choice of color. 

The first option is a smoky black mother-of-pearl dial in an 18K polished red gold case, that gives a more classic aesthetic. This piece is equipped with a tropic rubber, sail-canvas, or fabric NATO-style strap. The second variant has a joyous flamingo pink dégradé mother-of-pearl dial and a brushed titanium case, which gives a whole new look to the Fifty Fathoms. It is available with either a two-tone pink and white fabric strap or a matching titanium bracelet.

As any new idea is destined to do, the Automatique is already ruffling feathers in some deeply rooted and more traditional sectors of the watch world, with certain purists pointing out that the Fifty Fathoms is a tool watch conceived out of necessity and designed to address the real need for reliable timekeeping underwater among military and professional divers. Its water resistance, unidirectional rotating bezel, luminous markers, self-winding movement, anti-magnetism, and double-sealed crown all have been developed because of functional requirements for diver safety and efficiency. 

However, at almost 75 years old, the more rational assessment should surely be one of congratulating Blancpain for adapting an iconic design to suit an ever-evolving buyers’ market? 

The Fifty Fathoms Automatiques showcase different finishing techniques like the dégradé mother-of-pearl, demonstrating the artistic capabilities of the manufacture. Yet far from being “fashion watches” with a sole focus on looking good, the new 38mm models retain much of the function of their older siblings with the added appeal of a new look that incorporates both color and precious metal. 

Rather than diluting the brand message as some have suggested, the Fifty Fathoms Automatique in fact diversifies the collection, appealing to a different set of buyers who want fine watchmaking but with a different aesthetic. The introduction of the 38mm case size is a significant move for Blancpain, addressing a long-standing demand for a smaller, more wearable Fifty Fathoms, making the piece accessible to a wider audience, with the release signalling Blancpain’s willingness to expand the range with more inclusive diameters in the future.

In announcing the new pieces, Blancpain President & CEO Marc A. Hayek said: “These watches meet the growing demand for sporty, yet elegant timepieces perfectly tailored to slimmer wrists. They stand as a testament to our watchmaking heritage and to the women who, through their art and courage, reveal the wonders of the underwater world.” 

Tech Specs: Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique

Movement: Self-winding Manufacture Caliber 1153; 100-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours and minutes; central seconds
Case: 38.2mm × 12mm; 18K red gold or grade 23 titanium; water-resistant to 300m
Dial: Mother-of-pearl with black or pink dégradé
Strap: Tropic/NATO/sail-canvas strap with grade 23 titanium pink buckle with folding clasp
Price: From CHF 26,100 (black edition) or from CHF 15,500 (pink edition)