Let’s not beat around the bush. Toledano & Chan had the zeitgeist nailed in 2024. It was a year of different wrist-worn shapes, and the Toledano & Chan b/1 was mentioned in the same breath as the Berneron Mirage, despite its fluid shape directly opposing the b/1s Brutalism.

While the big players played a safe game based on quiet sales predictions, the uncertainty ignited a creative spark that gave us new case shapes, including the severe angles of Toledano & Chan’s debut. With the vibe of an alien Rolex Midas for the 21st Century, even the 22nd, it defied the commercial algorithms and hit us hard. 

We asked co-founder Phil Toledano about the brand’s first year, who told us, “24 far exceeded all our expectations! Not only did we sell out in record time, but auction results blew us away, including Sotheby’s at $24k and Phillips for $35k. For a normal b/1, these auctions, in some ways, are the ultimate test because, of course, it’s the market speaking. In short, 2024 was a dream for both of us.

“Yes there will be another piece unique this year, and possibly a collaboration,” commented Toledano on the future evolution of the b/1 and possible pièces uniques. “In terms of what’s next, I think the b/1 will remain in production for a while, but we are working on a b/2 that should see the light of day in ‘26”.

Toledano & Chan b/1, extended

The biggest challenge for any brand is keeping up the interest, which will become increasingly evident this year. But despite its polarising looks, having tried on the first version with its alluring Lapis Lazuli dial, I’ll easily predict its staying power. Dropping last year in early May, the b/1 was a classic case of the right debut watch from an unknown brand selling out instantly. All 175 pieces of the first edition went in 46 minutes. I was perhaps biased, having seen the prototype on a Zoom call with Toledano aka Instagram charmer @misterenthusiast, almost a year earlier. But the b/1 added something new to the Independents’ table, which was remarkably crowded for a quiet year. 

Phil Toledano and Alfred Chan played their cards right to keep our interest up for the remainder of the year with two distinct pièces uniques. It was a wise move that we see increasingly from smaller brands. My favourite was the molten-lava vibe of the 31mm version for Sotheby’s with its copper-infused carbon fibre, where rose gold hands picked up on the rich glowing copper infused in the case and bracelet. This was followed by a solid meteorite case for the successful TimeForArt auction in December, which used the organic criss-cross pattern of the stone to imbue the b/1 with the vibe of an ancient artefact. 

So how does the b/1.2 stand up as the all-important second album success all artists strive for? We love stone dials, and I love the pizzazz of Lapis Lazuli, but it’s not for everyone. With the inherent sparkle of Tahitian mother-of-pearl, the b/1.2 exhibits a strong monochrome charm that’ll surely make it many collectors’ quirky favorite after experiencing its surprising comfort. And unlike many attempts at integrated bracelet supremacy, the unity of form is unique. Expressing an audacious nod to the Rolex Midas, it still appears like an avant-garde talisman in a sea of reissues. It might have clues from the Midas, but the Brutalist inspiration also riffs off the windows in the minimalist Breuer building on 945 Madison Avenue in New York.

We can only applaud this singular focus, even if I am sure there will be grumblings when collectors see the considerable price hike, but the angular charm of a solid faceted crystal doesn’t come cheap. We have also seen a year of increased manufacturing costs, so I understand the US$5,700 price tag. Adding a faceted, solid sapphire crystal is a genius move, and its gem-like asymmetric cut cleverly reverses the angle of the 904L steel case. Speaking from experience, I can say that the strict form of the faceted asymmetry of the bracelet is big on comfort, and the hidden butterfly clasp only makes the single unity of the form better. If the nouveau-seventies angularity tickles your collecting buds, sales will start on the 5th of March.

More at Toledano & Chan.

Tech Specs: Toledano & Chan b/1.2

Movement: Automatic-winding Sellita caliber SW100; 42-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours and minutes
Case: 33.5mm (9.1mm to 10.4mm thick); 940L steel; water-resistant to 50m
Dial: Tahitian mother-of-pearl
Strap: Integrated, asymmetric thickness bracelet in 904L steel with a butterfly clasp Availability: Limited run
Price: US$5,700