Editorial

The Next Frontier: Rolex Oyster Perpetual Land-Dweller

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Editorial

The Next Frontier: Rolex Oyster Perpetual Land-Dweller

Powered by the high-beat caliber 7135 and its innovative Dynapulse escapement, the Land-Dweller is a bold move that propels the brand into the future
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Rolex doesn’t often redraw its own map, but with the Oyster Perpetual Land-Dweller, it plants a flag on new terrain. This is Rolex at full stride: a new sleek sculptural Oyster case with integrated bracelet that takes a leaf from past successes; a brand-new caliber 7135 with a 5Hz high-beat engine headlined by the groundbreaking Dynapulse escapement; and not least, a fresh new design that extends from its shimmering honeycomb dial to fluted polished bezel.

 

In short, it is all new with the Land-Dweller, to a tune of 32 new patents, 18 of which are exclusive to the watch. Of these, 16 are on the movement, while two concern the case and bracelet. Indeed, for a maison better known for its preference for incremental steps, the Land-Dweller is its quiet declaration of a brave new world.

 

Land-Dweller in Everose gold and diamonds (©Revolution)

Land-Dweller in Everose gold and diamonds (©Revolution)

 

A Quiet Evolution

The Land-Dweller was a project in progress for the past decade. And while it took many by surprise when unveiled at Watches and Wonders earlier this year, the Land-Dweller is a logical next step in evolution at Rolex.

 

“A model to be inspired by our aesthetic heritage but looking to the future.” This was the brief for the design of the Land-Dweller. Davide Airoldi, Head of Design at Rolex, says, “Finding a harmonious balance between these two worlds was certainly our biggest challenge. We came up with creative new codes without ever losing sight of the brand’s DNA or its style.” He adds, “At the same time, we integrated technical innovations from the Research and Development Division in the most refined and elegant way possible.”

 

Indeed, Rolex enthusiasts might well recall the case shape and integrated bracelet as one from the archives — specifically the Rolex Quartz, unveiled in 1969, and a yellow Rolesor variant of the Datejust, presented in 1974. But while Rolex has offered watches with integrated bracelets at points throughout its history, the Land-Dweller is a watch designed for today’s needs, albeit with a nod to the brand’s aesthetic heritage.

 

The all-new collection sits squarely in Rolex’s Classic category, filling the niche nicely between the Datejust and the Day-Date, aka the presidents’ watch, the most prestigious in the brand’s Classic lineup. Like the Datejust, it bears no complications beyond the date, offering a subtle versatile elegance well-suited for the everyday. At the same time, its striking design in Oystersteel with 18ct white gold bezel, 18ct Everose gold and 950 platinum nudges it subtly into the contemporary luxe territory presided over by the Day-Date, which is available exclusively in gold and platinum.

 

Land-Dweller in Oystersteel and white gold with white dial; 950 platinum with ice blue dial (©Revolution)

Land-Dweller in Oystersteel and white gold with white dial; 950 platinum with ice blue dial (©Revolution)

 

Beyond its place in the Classic collection, the Land-Dweller, above all, bears the Dweller moniker, and in this respect, it continues in the forward-looking path of two other Rolex collections that bear the same name — the Sea-Dweller and the Sky-Dweller.

 

When it first launched in 1967, it took Rolex from 200m to 600m underwater, thanks to its vastly improved waterproofness. Along with the revolutionary helium escape valve introduced then, the Sea-Dweller marked the next step in Rolex’s evolution from the Submariner.

 

The first version of the Sea-Dweller from 1967

The first version of the Sea-Dweller from 1967

 

After the Sea-Dweller, Rolex went on to launch distinctly new lines (Explorer II and Yacht-Master) and it would be 45 years before we see another family thus christened Dweller.

 

Launched in 2012, the Sky-Dweller was one of the brand’s most technically sophisticated projects. Powered by the caliber 9001, it presents a winning combination of dual time display and an annual calendar named Saros, which automatically differentiates between 30- and 31-day months, and requires adjustments only on March 1 (because February has 28 or 29 days). The innovative rotating Ring Command bezel lets you select the setting mode — calendar, local time or reference time. If the Sea-Dweller plumbed the depths of the abyss, then the Sky-Dweller soared and reached for the stars. The Sky-Dweller was meant for the jet set — pilots, executives and those who cross time zones at a whim: the high fliers of the world.

 

The first Sky-Dweller model launched in 2012

The first Sky-Dweller model launched in 2012

 

And so, after conquering sea and sky, all that remains is land. Cue Land-Dweller.

 

The latest collection to bear the Dweller name continues in this bold spirit of charting new territories — this time on terra firma, with a brand-new caliber bolstered by a string of technical innovations, not least the groundbreaking Dynapulse escapement, which makes this the brand’s first high-beat movement. In Rolex’s words, it marks “the beginning of a new chapter,” evident in its all-new ensemble, from dial and bracelet to movement and innovative escapement, designed for a steady, measured revolution for the everyday.

 

Rolex Testimonee Yuja Wang wearing the Land-Dweller 36 in 18ct Everose gold with an intense white, diamond-set dial and Flat Jubilee bracelet

Rolex Testimonee Yuja Wang wearing the Land-Dweller 36 in 18ct Everose gold with an intense white, diamond-set dial and Flat Jubilee bracelet

 

Shift the Dial

At first glance, the most striking characteristic of the Land-Dweller is perhaps its honeycomb dial. A traditional motif that’s not new to the Rolex lexicon, it has been used elsewhere in the Rolex collection, such as the Datejust. However, here it is given a modern update with 106 stylized cells in subtle relief in both 36 mm and 40 mm iterations.

 

The dial surface is first finished to Rolex’s exacting standards: a fine satin finish for the white dial and a sunray finish for the ice blue dial, which is reserved for Rolex’s 950 platinum models here as in other collections. Extremely precise femtosecond lasers are then used to etch the delicate lines of the honeycomb motif.

 

Anatomy of the Land-Dweller

 

Mathieu Vorontchouk, Head of Dial Prototypes at Rolex, shares, “One of the main challenges in creating the honeycomb motif on the dial of the Land-Dweller lay in producing the contrast between the top of the hexagons, which are matte or sunray-finished, and the grooves separating them. These grooves are decorated with a laser-etched, concentric circular motif, giving them a subtle shimmer.”

 

The numerals 6 and 9, meanwhile, reference those in the Explorer and Air-King with their distinctive open centers. In models with Chromalight display, they are filled with a specially developed variant of Rolex’s luminescent material, as are the index markers and the hour and seconds hands. Note that the markers and hands are all perfectly rectilinear and cut at the ends, with the luminescent material running the full length of each component, which is highly unusual and required Rolex to develop a new material and process.

 

The numerals 6 and 9, meanwhile, reference those in the Explorer and Air-King with their distinctive open centers (©Revolution)

The numerals 6 and 9, meanwhile, reference those in the Explorer and Air-King with their distinctive open centers (©Revolution)

 

“For the applique index hour markers, which are open-ended, we used a new variant of luminescent material that can be machined. This technical characteristic allowed us to create an original look and extend the material the full length of the markers,” Vorontchouk explains. The result is a very modern and streamlined design specially created for the Land-Dweller.

 

In fact, the complex manufacturing process counts towards the patents filed for the Land-Dweller project.

 

But of course, for those after more glamorous sparkle, there is always the option for baguette-cut diamonds to take the place of hour markers, as in the Land-Dweller 36 in 18ct Everose gold. Indeed, for this specific iteration, the bezel, too, comes festooned with 44 trapeze-cut diamonds for high-shine glamor.

 

The baguette-cut diamonds to take the place of hour markers, and the bezel comes festooned with 44 trapeze-cut diamonds for high-shine glamor (©Revolution)

The baguette-cut diamonds to take the place of hour markers, and the bezel comes festooned with 44 trapeze-cut diamonds for high-shine glamor (©Revolution)

 

The seconds hand, meanwhile, is svelte and elongated with a counterweight in the shape of a hexagon, echoing the honeycomb motif on the dial. On the platinum iteration, the Chromalight on the hand glows blue for a striking blue-on-blue effect against the ice-blue dial.

 

A sloping flange, featuring a pad-printed minute track graduated to the half-second, frames the dial. “Adding a flange to the top plate posed a major challenge,” Vorontchouk explains. “A specific geometry had to be devised for this element around the edge of the dial, to ensure that it remains securely in place when exposed to shocks.” After extensive research, the flange is thus angled to a very specific 17° for the 40 mm version and 19° for the 36 mm version, for the perfect cast of light on the dial to give it requisite depth as well as for practical functionality. Unlike in many other references, here, the flange bears the same color as the dial for visual harmony — white on white with fine satin finish and blue on blue with circular satin finish.

 

A Case for Rolex

The Land-Dweller is housed in the vaunted Oyster case of yore, the world’s first waterproof wristwatch case created by Rolex in 1926. When it was first launched, the Oyster case set the gold standard for wristwatches and, almost a hundred years later, it continues to define Rolex’s Oyster Perpetual collections.

 

Introduced in 1926, the Rolex Oyster prides itself on waterproofness

Introduced in 1926, the Rolex Oyster prides itself on waterproofness

 

The Land-Dweller retains the fundamental Oyster features that have marked just about every watch in Rolex’s core family, from Datejust to Rolex Deepsea, beginning with the patented system of fitting the bezel, caseback and winding crown against a solid middle case for a hermetic seal and waterproofness of up to 100 meters. The Oyster standard monobloc middle case, in this instance, is stamped and machined from a solid block of Oystersteel, 18ct Everose gold or 950 platinum. The Twinlock winding crown screws firmly down against the case to ensure another layer of water protection — an Oyster standard. For easy reading of the date, Rolex has also brought in its signature Cyclops lens, an invention that dates back to the 1950s and one that remains immensely popular to this day.

 

But turn the watch over and you’ll see a departure from the closed Oyster caseback. Instead, the Land-Dweller bears a transparent caseback, all the better to showcase and admire the new caliber 7135 within.

 

This new movement also bears the words “Chronometer Perpetual” and “Superlative Adjusted”, engraved respectively on its oscillating weight and one of its bridges (©Revolution)

This new movement also bears the words “Chronometer Perpetual” and “Superlative Adjusted”, engraved respectively on its oscillating weight and one of its bridges (©Revolution)

 

To date, only the 1908 and platinum executions of the Cosmograph Daytona share the same insider view, making this a rather special treat and doubly so, given that it is found on all launch models in the Land-Dweller collection. Framed by fine fluting with gleaming facets, another Rolex signature from the Oyster watch of 1926, it is indeed a mesmerizing view to behold.

 

Elsewhere, the case has also been subtly refined and defined for the Land-Dweller. Unlike other Classic references in Rolex’s stable, here, the signature bezel features wider fluting, which gives it 60 flutes versus the regular 72 on other references, resulting in a bolder, more sculptural presence on the wrist. Reminiscent of the Datejust presented in 1974, the middle case is barrel-shaped, with curved polished sides paired with a satin-finished top surface, giving it a distinctly contemporary aesthetic. And in place of traditional curved lugs, the edges are flat, softly angular and integrated to flow smoothly into the bracelet.

 

The signature bezel features wider fluting, which gives it 60 flutes versus the regular 72 on other references, resulting in a bolder, more sculptural presence on the wrist (©Revolution)

The signature bezel features wider fluting, which gives it 60 flutes versus the regular 72 on other references, resulting in a bolder, more sculptural presence on the wrist (©Revolution)

 

Jubilee Integration

One of the most distinctive elements of the Land-Dweller is its brand-new metal bracelet, which references the iconic Jubilee bracelet that was first unveiled in 1945 with the launch of the Datejust. Named the Flat Jubilee as a nod to its predecessor, the new bracelet retains the same five-link structure, with three smaller, narrower pieces flanked by a broader link on both sides. But while the links on the Jubilee are semi-circular and lusciously curved, those on this latest iteration are resolutely flat as its name suggests, save for the upper edges on the outer links, which are carefully beveled and polished to give depth. The polished chamfers flow along the bracelet to the middle case, and the result is a slimmer and more streamlined profile on the wrist, one clearly aligned with modern sensibilities and tastes of the times.

 

The lines of the new Flat Jubilee bracelet extend to form the silhouette of a completely redesigned Oyster case. Its links have a distinctive flat surface

The lines of the new Flat Jubilee bracelet extend to form the silhouette of a completely redesigned Oyster case. Its links have a distinctive flat surface

 

Like the original Jubilee, the outer links are satin finished while the three center links are polished to a high shine, in a pattern that leads from bracelet to case. According to Rolex, it is a new technical satin finish featuring a pronounced linear grain and a matte luster, used for the first time on Oystersteel, 18ct Everose gold and 950 platinum. Here, the three smaller links are also slightly raised, for contrast as well as to create a visual continuity.

 

“The design has to emphasize the aesthetic coherence between the two distinct elements of bracelet and case,” shares Airoldi. “The shapes and finishings must all be in perfect harmony. Our choice of alternate satin and polished finishes reprises an aesthetic code already present on a number of Classic models. The polished facets and chamfers alongside the flat, technical satin-finished surfaces produce a striking contrast that brings the Land-Dweller to life.”

 

Aesthetics aside, the Flat Jubilee is key in ensuring comfort and functionality as an integrated bracelet. “In terms of comfort, the broader bracelet means that there is a larger area of contact with the wrist. The watch therefore sits more securely and is better positioned,” explains Airoldi.

 

To ensure a fluid integration of bracelet into case, Rolex has also devised a new patented attachment system that is located between the middle case lugs. It features a spring bar that measures under 1cm long, enclosed in a special ceramic insert and held in place by a tiny screw within the bracelet link, to allow for a smooth articulation of the bracelet. As a result, the watch wraps around the wrist, maintaining a sleek sculptural silhouette that’s no doubt helped by the use of a concealed folding Crown clasp.

 

The Land-Dweller features a concealed Crownclasp that adds to its elegance

The Land-Dweller features a concealed Crownclasp that adds to its elegance

 

“In terms of appearance, the visual fluidity between the Flat Jubilee bracelet and the Oyster case lends great elegance to the Land-Dweller, which is as robust and reliable as other Rolex watches,” says Airoldi.

 

A Dynamic New Movement

Of the 32 patents filed for the Land-Dweller, half relate to its brand-new movement, the caliber 7135, visible in all its cutting-edge glory via the sapphire exhibition caseback. And indeed, there are many things to admire about this first-ever high-frequency movement achieved on an industrial scale by Rolex.

 

The new movement is based on the caliber 7140 which has powered the 1908 since its launch in 2023. Like caliber 140, which was designed for dress watch svelteness at 4.05mm (without date), the caliber 7135 is relatively slim compared to other Rolex movements, albeit still marginally thicker at 4.68mm. Nonetheless, this is key to the sleek sculpted form of the Land-Dweller, especially its slender profile.

 

Although a high frequency requires more energy, caliber 7135 guarantees a comfortable power reserve of around 66 hours. This is achieved thanks to the performance of the Dynapulse escapement, which significantly improves energy efficiency

Although a high frequency requires more energy, caliber 7135 guarantees a comfortable power reserve of around 66 hours. This is achieved thanks to the performance of the Dynapulse escapement, which significantly improves energy efficiency

 

Both movements boast a healthy power reserve of 66 hours. But here’s where the similarities end. The caliber 7140 beats at a reliable modern standard of 28,800vph while caliber 7135 gallops ahead at 36,000vph, measuring time to one tenth of a second. In real terms, this means that the watch is not just more accurate, it is also more stable and able to withstand the shocks and disturbances that come with daily wear. This, in turn, translates to better accuracy over time.

 

But because the caliber 7135 beats faster, it naturally consumes more energy.

 

“Increasing the frequency from 4Hz to 5Hz constitutes a major step for Rolex in the history of precision,” Frank Vernay, Head of Movements at Rolex, explains. “The higher a movement’s frequency, the more quickly it consumes the energy supplied by the self-winding system. This energy consumption needed to be optimized.”

 

If using the conventional Swiss lever escapement, this would lead to a reduced power reserve. Not so in this instance. Rolex maintains a 66-hour power reserve in the caliber 7135, akin to that of the caliber 7140 (which uses Rolex’s Chronergy escapement that is based on the Swiss lever escapement), thanks to its innovative new Dynapulse escapement.

 

“We therefore completely redesigned the escapement, enabling us to offer the same power reserve as that of caliber 7140,” says Vernay. In a traditional Swiss lever escapement, the escape wheel teeth push against pallet jewels on a lever, which alternately lock and unlock the escape wheel, relying on a sliding contact. However, energy is lost in the friction that ensues as the teeth slide over the pallet jewels during this process. In the new Dynapulse escapement, a transmission wheel engages with two distribution wheels, each of which in turn locks and impulses the rocker that gives the balance wheel a little nudge to keep it moving. It relies on rolling contact, rather than a sliding contact, thus reducing friction and energy loss, and improving efficiency.

 

“The Dynapulse escapement constitutes a new technical signature for Rolex. It is a revolution in watchmaking while remaining true to our brand’s fundamental principles and traditions,” Vernay elaborates. According to Rolex, the sequential distribution escapement offers high energy efficiency, approximately 30 percent more than a conventional Swiss lever escapement, all while taking up no more space.

 

The Dynapulse escapement is the most significant innovation in the regulating system of the new caliber 7135. Seven patent applications have been filed for this sequential distribution escapement

The Dynapulse escapement is the most significant innovation in the regulating system of the new caliber 7135. Seven patent applications have been filed for this sequential distribution escapement

 

“Fitting such a complex mechanism into the same space as a conventional Swiss lever escapement constituted a real technological challenge, as did the production and pre-assembly of the small components in silicon,” explains Vernay. “Then, assembling the Dynapulse escapement in the caliber entailed a complete rethink of our movement manufacturing and assembly processes.

 

“The groundwork for this high-performance escapement began around 10 years ago. It has taken time for the project to mature and for us to get to where we are today, with a solution covered by a total of seven patent applications.” The devil is in the details and, indeed, these patent applications show why: from the sequencing of the escapement and the distribution wheel, to the specific shape of the vanes on the wheels, and the specific geometry of the impulse rocker.

 

While the Dynapulse is the headline act, it is not the sole star in the caliber 7135 universe. Another key feature is the oscillator, which has been carefully reworked to optimize shock resistance and stability, and improve magnetic resistance, all of which translate into greater chronometric precision. Often called the heartbeat of the watch, the oscillator helps to regulate the energy transmitted by the escapement and determines the rate of the watch and, by extension, its precision. In the Land-Dweller, it plays a key role in preserving the 66-hour power reserve of lower frequency calibers, such as the caliber 7140, while driving a 5Hz frequency, thanks to several innovations.

 

An exploded view of the oscillator, which has been carefully reworked to optimize shock resistance and stability, and improve magnetic resistance

An exploded view of the oscillator, which has been carefully reworked to optimize shock resistance and stability, and improve magnetic resistance

 

For instance, the balance staff is now crafted from extremely tough high-technology ceramic that is patented by Rolex, instead of the usual hardened steel. It is steadfastly non-magnetic, which means that the oscillating system will not be at the nefarious whims of magnetic fields emanating from mobile phones, laptops, speakers, magnetic clips on handbags et al. It is also produced entirely in-house, cut by femtosecond lasers. The balance wheel, too, has been reworked in optimized brass, which is entirely non-magnetic material, again sidestepping the dangers of any imminent magnetic fields and improving precision.

 

For more stability, the ceramic balance staff is snugly ensconced between two optimized Paraflex shock absorbers with a double cone internal structure and an enhanced leaf spring, which help mitigate the effects of any shock to the system, allowing the staff to return smoothly after impact.

 

To achieve a higher beat rate, Rolex has also incorporated a Syloxi hairspring with thicker and reshaped coils for more rigidity, which enables it to maintain stable oscillation at 5Hz.

 

In short, this is, by design, possibly the most energy efficient and shock resistant oscillator ever built by Rolex.

 

Simply Superlative

As with all Rolex watches, the Land-Dweller bears the Superlative Chronometer badge of excellence.

 

In real terms, this means that it has undergone rigorous in-house tests for waterproofness, power reserve, self-winding and, of course, precision. These run the gamut from testing inside a hyperbaric tank of demineralized water to simulating underwater pressure, to a 24-hour protocol that puts the watch through its paces in static positions, as well as dynamic movement to mimic real-life conditions. These are conducted in addition to the certification of the movement by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), after the movement is cased and the watch is fully assembled. In fact, the tolerance for deviation is much stricter at Rolex: only ±2 seconds per day versus −4/+6 seconds permitted by COSC guidelines.

 

Rolex Testimonee Roger Federer wears a Land-Dweller 40 in Oystersteel and white gold

Rolex Testimonee Roger Federer wears a Land-Dweller 40 in Oystersteel and white gold

 

The Land-Dweller is the latest to bear the Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified title, proudly emblazoned on its dial at 6 o’clock. But more than the season’s standout, the Land-Dweller is also a purposeful statement of intent for the Crown. Its subtle referencing and evolution of distinctly Rolex design codes draw from an illustrious past even as the technical innovations tucked within the case propels the brand forward into its future as well as that of watchmaking. And in doing so, this new Rolex collection charts new territory, and the Crown claims new ground.

 

Technical Specifications: Rolex Oyster Perpetual Land-Dweller

Movement Self-winding caliber 7135; 66-hour power reserve
Functions Hours, minutes and seconds; instantaneous date with rapid setting; stop-seconds for precise time setting
Case 36mm or 40mm, both with height of 9.7mm; Oystersteel with 18ct white gold bezel, 18ct Everose gold or 950 platinum (includes options with diamonds); water resistant to 100m
Dial Intense white or ice blue, featuring honeycomb motif executed with femtosecond lasers; applied hour markers with Chromalight display, or diamond hour markers
Strap Flat Jubilee bracelet with concealed folding Crownclasp
Price Starting at USD 14,900

Brands:
Rolex

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Rolex