Making a surprise debut on the wrist of frequent IWC-enjoyer Mr Ed Sheeran, the latest from IWC is a strikingly blacked-out take on the popular Portugieser Chronograph.

From its earliest genesis in the 1930s, through to its more formal introduction in 1993, IWC’s Portugieser has been a watch with a personality which, for all its versatility, veers towards the dressier end of the spectrum. Well, IWC’s latest Portugieser moves that needle in a major way — the IWC Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium takes the watch well and truly to the dark side.

IWC Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium

Once you recover from the initial dissonance of seeing the familiar silhouette blacked out, this watch makes perfect sense. Ceratanium, in case you’re not across it, is an IWC-exclusive material: a caramized titanium, not only combining the numerous benefits of ceramic with those of titanium, but also allowing the brand to create black watches without a coating. Ceratanium has been a staple of the Pilot’s collection for some years now, but now, the material has moved from the realms of utility into the timelessness of the Portugieser.

Ceratanium, an IWC-exclusive material

Of course, the IWC Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium is still plenty sporty — it’s a chronograph after all, and comes on a black rubber strap, so there’s still plenty of performance in its design, and the all-black Ceratanium (which includes pushers, crown and pin buckle BTW) certainly amplifies that energy.

Speaking about adapting the Portugieser Chronograph, which was first released in 1998, Christian Knoop, IWC Creative Director, said: “With its clean, pure and timelessly relevant aesthetic, the Portugieser Chronograph has captivated me from the beginning. I am excited to combine this unique design with Ceratanium, one of our most significant material innovations. The all-black execution is different from anything we have ever done before. It emphasises the chronograph’s mere shape, ensuring that nothing distracts the eye from its distinctive silhouette.”

Naturally, it isn’t just the case elements that are clad in black. If you’re going to create an all-black watch, you go all the way. So, in addition to those elements, the dial, applied indices and even the famous leaf-shaped hands of the model have been rendered all in black, along with the aforementioned rubber strap. It’s worth noting that, unlike many all-black watches, this Portugieser has no luminous material, making legibility in the dark a bit of an issue, but really, it’s all about vibes. The calibre inside is IWC’s 69355, visible (appropriately enough) through a smoked sapphire case back. This remarkable new vision of an IWC favourite is limited to 1500 pieces, and sets the tone for a 2026 release schedule that might be full of surprise twists and turns.

Tech Specs IWC Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium

Movement IWC-manufactured calibre 69355, automatic with 46 hours of power reserve
Functions Hours, minutes, chronograph
Case Ceratanium, 41 x 13.1mm, water-resistant to 30M
Dial Black
Strap Black rubber strap with Ceratanium pin buckle
Availability Limited to 1500 pieces