Revolution turns 20 this year. It’s been two decades of stories, collaborations and slightly obsessive conversations about what makes a great watch — overwhelmingly, though not exclusively, focused on Swiss watchmaking. As our publication celebrates two decades, it seems fitting to shine a light on the activities of watchmakers beyond the Jura.

It felt right that the next decade should look somewhere new — or rather, somewhere ancient. Meet the Ancestra 垚 (Yáo), created with Atelier Wen and launching at Dubai Watch Week 2025, a watch that connects worlds that have been in dialogue for centuries: China and the Middle East.

Atelier Wen × Revolution Ancestra 垚 (Yáo)

A Case of “East Meets East”

Atelier Wen isn’t trying to be Swiss and that’s the whole point. Founded by Robin Tallendier and Wilfried Buiron, the brand has been building a new definition of “Made in China.” Their watches bring together independent Chinese craftspeople who specialize in enamel, engraving and case finishing, elevating traditional techniques with modern purpose.

Wilfried Buiron (left) and Robin Tallendier

While the earliest mechanical clocks arrived in China in the 16th century and sparked an industry creating intricate masterpieces for the Chinese aristocracy, modern Chinese watchmaking in the 1950s took off en masse with state-owned factories, such as Shanghai Watch Factory and Beijing Watch Factory, producing mechanical movements domestically. The 1960s, courtesy of Tianjin Watch Factory, brought the legendary Seagull watches, and China became the world’s largest producer of watch components, supplying much of the global industry.

In September 1955, they produced 18 mechanical watches, each engraved with “Shanghai, China.” (Image: Shanghai Watches)

The past 20 years, however, have seen a new chapter: the rise of independent, design-led marques like Atelier Wen, Celadon and Behrens — redefining “Made in China” as a shorthand for quality and sophistication. Artistic crafts such as enameling, techniques such micro-engraving and, of course, in-house calibers are reasserting a new era of Chinese watchmaking culture.

Revolution, for its part, has always gravitated toward brands that speak with their own voice. The idea for Ancestra came naturally, and the timing was perfect. We wanted to do something that acknowledged the cultural connection between East Asia and the Arab world. The dial, at the heart of the watch, tells this story.

The Dial Tells the Story

The dial is the heart of this watch. Made by Kong Lingjun’s atelier in Beijing, it uses translucent fumé grand feu enamel that fades from desert sand to dark chocolate. The color alone took months to get right — browns and beiges are notoriously tricky to stabilize in enamel.

Made by Kong Lingjun’s atelier in Beijing, it uses translucent fumé grand feu enamel that fades from desert sand to dark chocolate

Beneath it, a 925 silver base carries a gratté finish — a scratched texture that looks almost woven. The effect evokes the texture of fabric under glass, perhaps a nod to the silk that once traveled those trade routes.

Arabic numerals alternate with baguette-cut diamonds around the edge while tri-planed rhodium-plated hands catch the light like brushed metal in the sun.

Case Work

The case design takes its cue from Hongshan jade carvings — ancient Chinese pieces shaped in smooth, continuous curves. Atelier Wen reinterprets that form in 904L stainless steel, machining the case with detached lugs that are bolted from the outside.

At 38mm across and 46mm lug-to-lug, the watch sits snugly on the wrist. The mix of polished and brushed surfaces gives it definition without flash. The double-domed sapphire crystal has five layers of anti-reflective coating on each side, and the crown screws down to guarantee 100 meters of water resistance.

On the back, the Pequignet EPM03 movement is visible through another sapphire crystal. Its bridges are micro-etched with lines from 天问 (Tiān Wèn), or Questions to Heaven, a poem that asks, essentially, why we’re here. It’s an unexpectedly introspective detail for a sports-spec watch, but it fits. Horology at its best has always been philosophical.

The Pequignet EPM03 movement is micro-etched with lines from 天问 (Tiān Wèn), or Questions to Heaven

Movement and Mechanics

Atelier Wen didn’t take shortcuts with the engine. The EPM03 caliber runs at 28,800vph, with a 65-hour power reserve and accuracy adjusted to within ±2 seconds per day. It’s regulated in six positions and across three temperatures, and uses bi-directional automatic winding — a clear focus on performance.

Every Revolution collaboration is meant to be wearable. We don’t do safe-queen pieces. Ancestra Yáo follows that philosophy: robust enough for daily wear, detailed enough to reward a close look. The strap, hand-stitched in cream Epsom leather with a Zermatt lining, finishes the picture, light, dry and clean against the warm enamel tones.

What makes this watch interesting isn’t its scarcity, though it will be made in very limited numbers. It’s the dialogue between Chinese craft and Middle Eastern design cues. They share a love of symmetry, texture and symbolic geometry, and those aesthetic and stylistic references meet naturally, without being forced. It’s not a mash-up but a conversation-starter about Eastern influence that feels particularly relevant now.

For Atelier Wen, this collaboration also marks their first appearance at Dubai Watch Week. For Revolution readers, it’s a reminder that independent watchmaking isn’t defined by geography. The same desire that fuels Geneva’s ateliers runs through Beijing’s workshops. I think, for me also, the project symbolizes something about where collecting is going. Watch lovers today care less about brand hierarchy or labels… They want coherent design that feels intentional, authentic and well made. Ancestra Yáo hits all three — the kind of watch that doesn’t need to shout for attention.

Orders open during Dubai Watch Week, between 18 November 2025, 12noon GST and 27 November 2025, 2359 GST, with delivery scheduled for late 2026. Each piece will be hand built to order, and each dial will vary slightly as befits the nature of enamel.

Tech Specs: Atelier Wen × Revolution: Ancestra 垚 (Yáo)

Movement: Self-winding heavily customized Pequignet Caliber EPM03, featuring 3/4 bridge with circular, deeply micro-etched Chinese manuscript; 65-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes and hacking seconds
Case: 38mm × 11.3mm (including crystal); 904L stainless steel; water resistant to 100m
Dial: Gratté base in 925 silver, with fumé grand feu enamel in light sand to chocolate gradient; Eastern Arabic numerals for odd hour markers, and lab-grown baguette-cut diamonds for even markers
Strap: Hand-stitched, full-grain leather with cream Epsom upper and Zermatt lining; stainless steel buckle with hand-applied, mirror-polished bevels and fine brushing
Price: $5,850.00 USD, excluding taxes
Availability: Orders open between 18 November 2025, 12noon GST and 27 November 2025, 2359 GST; to be delivered in late 2026