Cartier
SIHH 2017: The Return of the Panthère
Begs the question, why has Cartier placed such weight on a women’s quartz time piece?
Truth be told, the heritage of the Panthère de Cartier is not just that of a ladies’ model with a quartz caliber. Its story goes as far back to the very first Louis Cartier designs, a time in which quartz movements were not even a matter of reality.
But first, a trip down memory lane and into the year 1983, when the Panthère was first introduced.
The Panthère was, in fact, a watch created from scratch. When it was designed, it was always intended to be on a bracelet as a daily jewelry item rather than a severe timepiece.
The crown guards, which protect the sapphire set crown, were added to give the watch a sportier appeal, since the Panthère, contrary to the Santos Dumont, is water resistant to 30m.
The bracelet took inspiration from very early collections within the maison’s watchmaking savoir faire. This isn’t publicized officially but the bracelet-type of the Panthère is sometimes referred to as the ‘Figaro’ bracelet.
Thereafter, and understandably, the watch became an immensely popular object of desire for many of Cartier’s admirers. It went on to become one of the bestselling 18k gold ladies’ timepieces on a bracelet not long after its introduction.
It proved to be an easy and versatile timepiece, which did not shy away from any occasion. From daily routines to the grandest of affairs, it always lent its wearer a chic outlook.
Often times, it could be seen on women’s wrists paired with Cartier’s Juste un Clou bracelet, which immediately elevated the watch to a higher level of feminine cool. Curiously, it’s appeal as a choice timepiece for icons in pop culture at the time, wasn’t simply restricted to female stars such as Grace Jones and Françoise Hardy.
But even male celebrities — the likes of rock god Keith Richards and heart throb Pierce Brosnan — have been spotted wearing, later introduced male versions of the Panethère.
There was a glimmer of hope that the Panthère might have made a comeback, in 2013, when Cartier decided to bring back the Panthère cufflinks of the 80s.
Although, the new version looks identical to the 80s original, where not much was to complain about, Cartier has made the 2017 Panthère even more feminine, by leaving out the date window and the sweep seconds, which the medium and large models used to have.
Designers at Cartier have also revised the overall construction of the bracelet to so that it might be able to keep up with the demands of the twenty-first century women’s lives.
14 new versions were shown at SIHH 2017, including full gold diamond set versions to more reserved stainless steel models. These will all be available in the two mentioned sizes from June 2017 at all Cartier boutiques.