Patek Philippe at Watches and Wonders 2025: 5308G, 5370R, 6159G, 6196P, And More
Patek Philippe at Watches and Wonders 2025: 5308G, 5370R, 6159G, 6196P, And More
Patek Philippe’s 2025 releases reaffirm the brand’s commitment to refining its coveted models while injecting fresh design codes into its classic collections. At last year’s Watches & Wonders, particular emphasis was placed on travel watches, where Patek Philippe underscored its expertise in dual-time and world-time complications. For 2025, we find a continued innovation in complications, especially on the calendarial front, along with subtle experimentations to its dial aesthetics.
Quadruple Complication Ref. 5308G
Patek Philippe’s Quadruple Complication Reference 5308G-001 takes the reins of leading the high complications lineup this year, presenting a minute repeater, split-seconds chronograph, and instantaneous perpetual calendar, in a 42mm white gold case at 17.71mm thick. This release follows the platinum limited edition that dazzled attendees at the 2023 Tokyo Watch Art Grand Exhibition. And for anyone keeping score, this new quadruple complication replaces the previous Ref. 5208R-001 in Patek’s current collection.
The watch builds on the foundation of the Triple Complication Ref. 5208 from 2011, but with an ambitious upgrade: adding a split-seconds chronograph to an already complex timepiece featuring a minute repeater and instantaneous perpetual calendar. The engineering feat cannot be overstated — incorporating this energy-hungry split-seconds function required significant innovation.
The new R CHR 27 PS QI caliber packs a staggering 799 components and introduces two patented technologies: an anti-backlash wheel preventing chronograph friction and an isolation system that conserves energy when the split-seconds mechanism is inactive. A platinum mini-rotor enhances winding efficiency to power all these functions.
The watch’s aesthetic is equally impressive, with a sunburst ice-blue dial complemented by blue metallized hour markers and faceted Dauphine hands in white gold. The polished 42mm case features distinctive openworked lugs, while a navy-blue alligator strap with a new patented triple-blade fold-over clasp completes the package.
Tech Specs: Quadruple Complication Ref. 5308G
Movement: Self-winding Caliber R CHR 27 PS QI; 38 to 48-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours and minutes; small seconds; minute repeater; instantaneous perpetual calendar (day, date, month, leap year); day/night indicator; split-seconds chronograph; moon phases
Case: 42mm × 17.71mm; white gold
Dial: Sunburst ice blue
Strap: Navy blue alligator leather with white gold triple-blade fold-over clasp
Split-Seconds Chronograph Ref. 5370R
Patek Philippe’s coveted Ref. 5370 has received a stunning makeover, now appearing in rose gold for the first time since its 2015 debut. This latest iteration replaces the platinum blue-dialed 5370P-011 from 2020 in the current collection.
The new 5370R-001 features a two-tone Grand Feu enamel dial — brown with beige champlevé enamel subdials and a tachymeter scale — created through an incredibly complex process on an 18K gold plate. The color combination is charmingly retro-esque, though it lends excellent legibility too, enhanced by rose gold leaf-shaped hands with luminescent coating and applied rose gold Breguet numerals.
It runs on the CHR 29-535 PS movement, a manually wound “two-phase” chronograph that currently carries seven patented features; the split-seconds function is controlled by a pusher integrated into the crown.
The polished rose gold case exudes refinement with its concave bezel and recessed, satin-brushed flanks, and finished in a dark brown alligator strap.
Tech Specs: Split-Seconds Chronograph Ref. 5370R
Movement: Manual-winding CHR 29-535 PS; 65-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours and minutes; small seconds; split-seconds chronograph; tachymeter
Case: 41mm × 13.56mm; rose gold; water-resistant to 30m
Dial: Grand Feu brown and beige enamel
Strap: Dark chestnut alligator leather with rose gold triple-blade fold-over clasp
Retrograde Perpetual Calendar Ref. 6159G
Patek Philippe has reimagined one of its most coveted complications with the new Reference 6159G-001. What immediately catches the eye is the gray metallized sapphire crystal dial with a black-gradient rim. This semi-transparent face offers a glimpse into the watch’s inner workings while maintaining perfect legibility of its numerous functions. The retrograde date hand — which elegantly traces an arc before instantly jumping back to the first of each month — takes center stage among apertures displaying the day, month, leap-year cycle, and remarkably precise moon phases that need adjustment only once every 122 years.
The 39.5mm case is elevated by Patek’s signature hobnail guilloché that runs along the bezel and on the case back. White gold Dauphine hands and luminescent baton markers complete the sophisticated dial arrangement.
Turning the watch over reveals the self-winding 26-330 S QR caliber through a transparent sapphire case back, showcasing Patek’s renowned finishing. The timepiece comes on a black composite strap with fabric texture and cream stitching.
Tech Specs: Retrograde Perpetual Calendar Ref. 6159G
Movement: Self-winding 26-330 S QR; 35 to 45-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours and minutes; central seconds; perpetual calendar (day, month, leap year in apertures); retrograde date hand; moon phases
Case: 39.5mm × 11.49mm; white gold; water-resistant to 30m
Dial: Sapphire crystal with gray metallization and black gradient rim
Strap: Black fabric pattern in composite material with white gold triple-blade fold-over clasp
Twenty~4 Perpetual Calendar Ref. 7340/1R
Patek Philippe has introduced the first-ever complication to its Twenty~4 line, presenting a perpetual calendar housed in the first non-gemset round Twenty~4 case.
Seven years after launching the round Twenty~4 Automatic, Patek Philippe has elevated the collection with the new Reference 7340/1R-001 that’s equipped with the self-winding 240 Q caliber. This automatically adjusts for varying month lengths, even during leap years, without requiring manual correction. Despite its horological complexity, the timepiece maintains an elegant profile at just 9.95mm thick, thanks to the ultra-thin caliber measuring only 3.88mm.
The silvery dial showcases a distinctive double satin-brushed finish reminiscent of shantung silk, with calendar information displayed in subdials at 3 (day-of-the-week and 24-hours), 6 (date and moon phases), and 9 o’clock (month and leap year). A second version (Reference 7340/1R-010) offers a sunburst olive green dial.
The hand-polished 36mm rose gold case is complemented by a matching bracelet with an exclusive design featuring cambered central links framed by slim two-tier outer links.
Tech Specs: Perpetual Calendar Ref. 7340/1R
Movement: Self-winding 240 Q; 38 to 48-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours and minutes; perpetual calendar (day, date, month, leap year); 24-hour indicator; moon phases
Case: 36mm × 9.95mm; rose gold; water-resistant to 30m
Dial: Silver with “shantung” finish or sunburst olive green
Strap: Black fabric pattern in composite material with white gold triple-blade fold-over clasp
Calatrava 8 Days Ref. 5328G
New additions to the Calatrava line include the new Ref. 5328G that boasts an eight-day power reserve. This is displayed via an indicator at 12 o’clock, alongside instantaneous day and date displays (positioned at 6 o’clock).
The generous power reserve has the brand new manually wound 31-505 8J PS IRM CI J caliber to thank. The movement features a Pulsomax® escapement with Silinvar® components — technology originally developed through Patek’s Advanced Research program. Dual barrels work in tandem to deliver that remarkable power reserve, with a thoughtful red indicator appearing on the ninth day to remind you it’s time to wind.
Within the white gold case that features Patek’s signature hobnail guilloché pattern around its entirety, a textured blue dial with its gradient black rim creates a perfect backdrop for the applied white gold numerals and luminescent hands. It comes with two interchangeable straps and a new patented triple-blade clasp designed for both safety and comfort.
Tech Specs: Calatrava 8 Days Ref. 5328G
Movement: Manual-winding 31-505 8J PS IRM CI J; 8-day power reserve
Functions: Hours and minutes; small seconds; instantaneous day; instantaneous date; power reserve indicator
Case: 41mm × 10.52mm; white gold; water-resistant to 30m
Dial: Textured blue with black gradient rim
Strap: Navy blue fabric pattern in calfskin leather with white gold triple-blade fold-over clasp; additional grained calfskin leather strap in taupe
Read: Patek Philippe at Watches and Wonders 2025: Calatrava Pilot Travel Time and Ladies’ Nautilus
Calatrava Ref. 6196P-001
The other Calatrava we speak of is the Ref. 6196P-001, a new platinum model that’s a fresh interpretation of the Ref. 5196, first introduced in 1932. At 38mm, the new Ref. 6196P-001 offers a slightly more substantial presence on the wrist than its predecessor while maintaining the Calatrava’s signature minimalist aesthetic. The standout feature is undoubtedly the opaline rose-gilt dial, delivering a warm vintage vibe that’s complemented by anthracite-coated white gold hour markers and dauphine hands.
True to the Bauhaus principle of “form follows function”, this Calatrava keeps things clean with a discreet small seconds at 6 o’clock and a smooth beveled bezel. The watch runs on the manually wound 30-255 PS caliber, introduced in 2021, offering a generous 65-hour power reserve despite its slim 2.55mm profile. The movement, visible through a sapphire caseback, features Geneva striping and a stop-seconds function for precise time-setting.
Tech Specs: Calatrava Ref. 6196P-001
Movement: Manual-winding 30-255 PS; 65-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours and minutes; small seconds
Case: 38mm × 9.33mm; platinum; water-resistant to 30m
Dial: Rose gilt opaline
Strap: Chocolate brown alligator leather with platinum prong buckle
Annual Calendar Moon Phases Ref. 4946R
The Annual Calendar welcomes a new rose gold version, maintaining the versatile 38mm case diameter that made waves when introduced in non-gemset steel back in 2021.
The new model pairs the warm tones of rose gold with a striking chestnut dial featuring a distinctive satin-brushed finish. Calendar functions remain the hallmark of this piece, with day and month subdials positioned between 9-10 and 2-3 o’clock respectively, plus a framed date window at 6 o’clock. The watch also features an impressively accurate moon-phase display that needs adjustment only once every 122 years. And speaking of adjustments, correctors for all calendar functions are flushed along the caseband, with the sapphire crystal case-back showcasing the self-winding caliber 26-330 S QA LU movement.
Tech Specs: Annual Calendar Moon Phases Ref. 4946R
Movement: Self-winding 26-330 S QA LU; 35 to 45-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours and minutes; central seconds; annual calendar (day, date, month); moon phases
Case: 38mm × 11mm; rose gold; water-resistant to 30m
Dial: Silver with “shantung” finish or sunburst olive green
Strap: Chestnut calfskin with fabric pattern; rose gold prong buckle
Cubitus Ref. 7128 40mm
The fresh-faced Cubitus collection, which only made its debut last October, brings the collection’s distinctive square-with-rounded-edges design to a more versatile 40mm diameter.
Presented in white or in rose gold, the dials continue with the horizontal embossing (also echoed on the 21K gold rotor), in respective colors of sunburst blue-gray or in brown. Legibility hasn’t been sacrificed for style, with applied white gold hour markers and hands featuring luminescent coating. The date window gets the luxury treatment too, framed elegantly in white gold.
The two-part case measures a sleek 8.5mm thick and showcases contrasting polished and vertical satin-brushed finishes that accentuate its modern geometry. Inside beats the self-winding caliber 26-330 S C, complete with a stop-seconds function for precise time-setting.
The matching gold bracelet features Patek’s innovative lockable adjustment system and a patented fold-over clasp with four independent catches, ensuring both comfort and security.
Tech Specs: Cubitus Ref. 7128 40mm
Reference: Ref. 7128/1G; Ref. 7128/1R
Movement: Self-winding 26-330 S C; 35 to 45-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours and minutes; central seconds; date
Case: 40mm × 8.5mm; white or rose gold; water-resistant to 30m
Dial: Sunburst blue-gray or brown, both with horizontal embossing
Strap: White or rose gold bracelet with lockable adjustment system and fold-over clasp
Nautilus Haute Joaillerie Ref. 5811/1460G
For those who believe that a sports watch should also be a masterpiece of haute joaillerie, Patek Philippe has delivered yet another dazzling interpretation of the Nautilus. The new high-j Nautilus builds upon the diamond-set legacy of its predecessor, the 5719/10G-010 (which is now discontinued). Now measuring a slightly larger 41mm and omitting the date window for a cleaner aesthetic, this latest creation demonstrates the brand’s expertise in gem-setting and design.
Diamonds take center stage here. 1,285 brilliant-cut diamonds (6.43 carats) blanket the dial, bracelet, and case, while 195 baguette-cut diamonds (13.27 carats) punctuate the bezel, bracelet links, and hour markers. The interplay of different cuts highlights the Nautilus’ signature octagonal shape, ensuring maximum brilliance without compromising the watch’s proportions.
Two more Ladies’ Nautilus references join the lineup, which includes a bright blue lacquered dial on a white gold bracelet. You can read about the new Ref. 7010 here.
Tech Specs: Nautilus Haute Joaillerie Ref. 5811/1460G
Movement: Self-winding 26-330 S; 45-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours and minutes; central seconds
Case: 41mm × 9.25mm; 0.74ct diamond pavé white gold set with 32 baguette diamonds; water-resistant to 30m
Dial: 1.33ct diamond pavé with 13 baguette diamond markers on 18K white gold dial plate
Strap: 4.36ct diamond pavé white gold bracelet set with 150 baguette diamonds; fold-over clasp
Desk Clock Ref. 27000M
Inspired by two historic pieces delivered to legendary American collectors James Ward Packard (1923) and Henry Graves Jr. (1927), Patek Philippe presents a 31-day power reserve desk clock to its rare handcrafts this year.
The complicated desk clock displays main hours and a perpetual calendar, the latter complete with a week-number display, in a stunning sterling silver case featuring green flinqué Grand Feu enamel panels and intricate guilloché patterns. Its gargantuan 31-day power reserve relies on the manually wound Caliber 86-135 PEND S IRM Q SE, a feat of engineering that took seven years to develop. The movement — powered by three series-coupled barrels — achieves an astonishing accuracy of +/- 1 second per day. Setting the time and calendar is effortless, thanks to an intuitive push-button control panel concealed beneath an American walnut veneer cover.
Prior to its entry into the collection, a one-of-a-kind preview version of this clock (Reference 27001M-001) was donated by Patek Philippe to the 2021 Only Watch charity auction.
Tech Specs: Desk Clock Ref. 27000M
Movement: Manual-winding 86-135 PEND S IRM Q SE; 31-day power reserve
Functions: Subsidiary hours and minutes; central jumping seconds; perpetual calendar (day, date, month, leap year); day/night indicator; week number; moon phases
Case: 164.6mm × 125mm (76.73mm in height); sterling silver cabinet; guilloché panels with green flinqué enamel; yellow-gilt silver vermeil
Dial: Silver opaline
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