News

Naturally Eternal: The Watchmaking of Van Cleef & Arpels

Share

Van Cleef & Arpels have always had a profound sense of wonder for the natural world, bringing the forms of flora and fauna to life with their exquisite craftsmanship and eye for detail. Using natural gemstones and precious materials, they have created a new set of timepieces that honor nature’s beauty and man’s ingenuity. Aptly named Poetic Complications, the collection brings the power of mechanicals and the organic movement of nature together beautifully.

The Blooms

There is a very interesting story behind the concept of a watch made of flowers, and it comes not from a watchmaker but from a botanist. Carl von Linné (known as Carl Linnaeus before his ennoblement) published a book in 1751 entitled Philosophia Botanica, and in it he describes a fantastical garden created from plants with flowers that open and close during different moments of the day. With precise selections and care, the garden would become a kind of living clock as the flowers tell time with their natural rhythm of response to light and atmosphere.

This proposal sparked the imagination of the watchmakers at Van Cleef & Arpels, and they have responded with two new timepieces that bring the idea of blooming flowers and telling time together in a mechanical interpretation of von Linné’s floral clock. The Lady Arpels Heures Florales uses a colorway of summer blues and greens, while the Lady Arpels Heures Florales Cerisier is a riot of spring pinks and reds.

Lady Arpels Heures Florales is a 38mm timepiece with a sprinkling of diamonds on the nature-inspired dial

Lady Arpels Heures Florales Cerisier tells the time in a warm color palette of spring pinks and reds

Nicolas Bos, president and CEO of Van Cleef & Arpels, said, “The Heures Florales project was born out of the encounter between a very great botanist and a rather unusual watchmaker. The first of them, Carl von Linné — notably renowned for his classification of the animal and plant species — had a highly poetic idea: a garden that would be a clock. The second, Van Cleef & Arpels, is the distinctive watchmaker that took an interest in von Linné’s marvelous watch concept, on the boundary of art and science.”

The three-dimensional dial is comprised of 12 corollas that blossom and close using a random pattern for infinite variety and fascination. Through the course of an hour, there is a dance of blooming floral design with a reset every 60 minutes. The execution of such a feat involved using no less than 226 mobile elements and setting them in motion on the dial. Each minuscule petal is designed with articulation and its own connection to the watch mechanism that drives its movement.

Applying miniature painting on the dial’s flower petals

To add to the complexity of the engineering process, the watchmakers wanted a random blooming pattern to ensure that each hour’s display brought a new pattern and interest for the viewer. The dance of the flowers reveals the hour and a retrograde minute display was added to the side of the case. These watches are not only mechanical marvels, but they are also intricate and elegant jewelry.

Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Heures Florales Cerisier

The Lady Arpels Heures Florales starts with a 38mm case of white gold and a backdrop of white mother-of- pearl. Blue and green leaves and flowers create a soothing expression of peaceful summer afternoons.

The Lady Arpels Heures Florales Cerisier begins with a 38mm case in rose gold and the white mother-of-pearl dial features pink and red flowers and pink sapphires. The springtime blooms are visited by delicate blue butterflies, an iconic representation of Van Cleef & Arpels.

On both versions, golden branches twine behind the flowers to provide some texture and add to the sense of a living garden. White diamonds circle the bezel and, in the center of the flowers, yellow and white diamonds provide a touch of glamor and sparkle to the overall effect.

Applying enamel miniature painting of a butterfly on the caseback crystal of the Lady Arpels Heures Florales Cerisier

The beautifully finished caseback hosts a sapphire glass to reveal the movement’s oscillating weight, finished in guilloché gold and miniature painting. The blue and green version features an engraved dragonfly and the red and pink version has a butterfly as a final finishing touch.

Assembling the caseback of the Lady Arpels Heures Florales Cerisier

Tech Specs

Lady Arpels Heures Florales

Movement: Self-winding caliber Valfleurier Q020, with module for floral display complication; 36-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours indicated via floral display, and retrograde minutes
Case: 38mm; 18K white gold set with diamonds
Dial: White gold, rose gold, yellow gold, yellow and white diamonds, white mother-of-pearl with miniature painting
Strap: Shiny blue alligator leather
Price: Available upon request

Lady Arpels Heures Florales Cerisier

Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Heures Florales Cerisier

Movement: Self-winding caliber Valfleurier Q020, with module for floral display complication; 36-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours indicated via floral display, and retrograde minutes
Case: 38mm; 18K rose gold set with diamonds
Dial: Rose gold, yellow gold, white gold, pink sapphires, yellow and white diamonds, white mother-of-pearl with miniature painting
Strap: Shiny pink alligator leather
Price: Available upon request


The Dancers

This year, Van Cleef & Arpels is releasing two new pieces for the Lady Arpels Ballerines Enchantée collection. The two pieces bring new attitude and poise to the dancer’s silhouette, and the skirt is crafted to reveal a butterfly’s wings when extended. This combination of dancer and butterfly is inspired by a quote from Anna Pavlova: “I dreamed that I was a ballerina, and that I spent my life dancing as light as a butterfly…” The graceful dancer’s face, headdress, bust and waist are suggested by diamonds, and her elegant body is crafted from white gold.

Lady Arpels Ballerine Enchantée features the poised dancer with her butterfly wing skirt on a rich blue dial

Lady Arpels Ballerine Enchantée Rose Gold comes with a pink dial

The Lady Arpels Ballerine Enchantée features a dancer on a rich guilloché blue dial within a pristine white gold and diamond case. The dancer’s skirt is crafted from champlevé enamel, sapphires and diamonds in the rich gemstone hues of purples and blues. The timepiece is paired with a diamond paved strap.

The Lady Arpels Ballerine Enchantée Rose Gold features the dancer with a skirt of softer plique-à-jour enamel in blues and pinks against a guilloché pink dial and surrounded by a rose gold and diamond 40mm case. The rose gold version is paired with a vibrant purple alligator strap.

Tech Specs

Lady Arpels Ballerine Enchantée

Movement: Self-winding caliber Valfleurier Q020, with retrograde and time-on-demand module; 36-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours and minutes indicated via butterfly dancer display
Case: 40mm; 18K white gold set with diamonds
Dial: White gold, sapphires, diamonds, with champlevé and plique-à-jour enamel
Strap: Diamond paved white gold bracelet
Price: Available upon request

Lady Arpels Ballerine Enchantée Rose Gold

Movement: Self-winding caliber Valfleurier Q020, with retrograde and time-on-demand module; 36-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours and minutes indicated via butterfly dancer display
Case: 40mm; 18K rose gold set with diamonds
Dial: Rose gold, diamonds, with champlevé and plique-à-jour enamel
Strap: Brilliant purple alligator
Price: Available upon request


In each retrograde timepiece, a second set of translucent enameled veils rise on-demand to indicate the time and create the illusion of a set of delicate butterfly wings against the radiating guilloché backgrounds. The tutu action can be triggered with a press of the button positioned at eight o’clock that raises half of the petticoat in a fluid motion to indicate the hour for a few seconds, then the second half will rise to indicate the minutes for a few seconds and thus reveal the butterfly fairy wings as well as the time. Both will then return to their starting position, returning the dancer to her human form.

Lions and Rabbits

Van Cleef & Arpels have always been partial to scenes of fauna, and this time they feature two tableaus lifted from the deep savannah with stories depicted from a beautiful and unexpected palette of precious stone and gems. These two new models are featured in the Extraordinary Dials collection. The pieces are designed as miniature works of art featuring a pair of animals, one of lions and another of rabbits. Each pair shares a long gaze of companionship and connection against a background of jewel and enamel detail.

The Lady Duo de Lions features a pair of lions, a standing male in white gold with full mane gazing at his yellow gold lady as she reclines on a plain of diamonds and pink sapphires. A river of turquoise and a plateau of onyx marquetry create a far distant background beneath a sun of mirror- polished and guillochéd rose gold. Mother-of-pearl clouds float gently above the scene.

Lady Duo de Lions features a pair of lions in a 33mm white gold case

In the Lady Duo de Lapins piece, a pair of rabbits exquisitely crafted from mother-of-pearl gaze at one another in a field of tsavorite garnets and pink sapphires. Green plique-à-jour enamel creates a layer of vegetation and interest in the background. Lapis lazuli clouds screen the sun of mirror-polished and guillochéd rose gold.

Lady Duo de Lapins features a pair of rabbits exquisitely crafted from mother-of-pearl

Both watches are framed by a 33mm case of white gold and diamonds and the lions are paired with a light gray alligator strap while the rabbits have a contrasting green alligator strap.

Tech Specs

Lady Duo De Lions

Movement: Manual winding caliber Valfleurier Q474
Functions: Hours and minutes
Case: 33mm; 18K white gold set with diamonds
Dial: White, rose and yellow gold, pink sapphires, diamonds, turquoise, onyx, white mother-of-pearl
Strap: Light gray alligator leather
Price: Available upon request

Lady Duo De Lapins

Movement: Manual winding caliber Valfleurier Q474
Functions: Hours and minutes
Case: 33mm; 18K white gold set with diamonds
Dial: Rose gold, white gold, pink sapphires, emeralds, tsavorite garnets, lapis lazuli, white mother-of-pearl, with plique-à-jour enamel, miniature painting and lacquer
Strap: Dark green alligator leather
Price: Available upon request


The Poetry of Motion

Watchmakers at Van Cleef & Arpels assembling their poetic movement

Assembling the movement’s oscillating weight

Van Cleef & Arpels have executed their vision of bringing poetry to life and honoring the beauty of the natural world with the Poetic Complications collection. The pieces are delicate and precise, exhibiting the unparalleled skills of the watchmakers in both engineering and art. The beauty of the chosen materials adds to the magic of the overall effect, giving a precious opulence to the themes of nature and movement. Indeed, collectors will find much to excite them in these new additions.