New dial, new movement.
Launched just three years ago, the Streamliner marked H. Moser & Cie.’s inaugural venture into the realm of luxury integrated-bracelet sports watches. Since then, the brand has been actively broadening the lineup, offering a range of models, from time-only pieces to complicated ones like chronographs, tourbillons, and perpetual calendars.
Now, the watchmaker has given its basic time-only model a complete makeover, making it a more competitive luxury sports watch. The new Streamliner Small Seconds Blue Enamel has a smaller 39 mm case, a new automatic movement with a micro-rotor, and an enamel dial that makes it stand out from other watches in its category.
While fumé and “hammered” enamel dials are not new for Moser, their use on a sports watch is certainly surprising. Such elaborate and delicate craftsmanship is typically reserved for quiet, dressy watches. However, there are two good reasons why this design makes sense for the Steamliner.
First, Moser is renowned for its fumé dial, and there’s no one more fitting to introduce a fumé enamel dial on a sports watch, as it’s already ingrained in the brand’s identity.
Second, it’s aesthetically pleasing. In contrast to the conventional metallic dial, the enamel dial, particularly with its fumé finish and “hammered” pattern, is just more eye-catching. The new dial has this added visual complexity and depth, giving the watch a livelier, more vibrant vibe. Given that the Streamliner deviates from the typical luxury sports watch by adopting a more understated design, a striking dial could elevate the overall appeal of its stern aesthetic.
Understated yet striking
The enamel dial undergoes a multi-stage creation process. Initially, the gold dial blank is stamped with a grain pattern that evokes a hand-hammered finish. Subsequently, twelve layers of translucent enamel are carefully applied and fired in an oven. The accumulation of enamel layers allows the color to gradually darken towards the edges. This could be due to the dial’s slight dome shape, where the edge is enhanced with a thicker coating of enamel, resulting in a darker appearance, or if the dial is flat, then different shades of blue could have been applied to create the gradient effect.
Work in progress
A new micro-rotor movement
Not only does the base Streamliner receive a new dial, but it also marks the debut of a new movement by independent watchmaker Moser. The new HMC 500 is an automatic movement with a micro-rotor, which is a first for the brand. The use of a micro-rotor, coupled with a small seconds complication, allows the new Streamliner to be 0.9 mm thinner than its predecessor. However, at 10.9 mm tall, it still feels substantial compared to competitors from Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe.
Still sitting elegantly on the wrist.
The new HMC 500 boasts a handsome aesthetic with a micro-rotor, allowing more components to be visible. Moser has certainly capitalized on this opportunity by skeletonizing some bridges, exposing more wheels and gears. As a result, the movement appears more intricate than a typical time-only movement. It also receives a dark finish that complements its sporty character.
Like other Moser watches, the finishing of the movement is industrial yet clean. This means that the beveling on the bridges is done via machine, giving them a sharp, 45-degree surface and leaving behind some machining marks. The exception is the beveling on the platinum micro-rotor, which appears slightly rounded and more refined.
H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Small Seconds Blue Enamel Ref. 6500-1200 specs and price
Movement: HMC 500; automatic; 74 hours power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, and seconds
Case: 39 mm x 10.9 mm; steel; water resistant to 120 m
Strap: Steel bracelet
Availability: H. Moser & Cie. authorized retailers
Limited edition: No
Price: USD 32,900
