Gérald Genta was the latest name to join LVMH’s growing stable of revived top independents, having been brought back in 2023. The first result of this revival was the time only Oursin in 2024, a watch defined by an unmistakably bold design language. That was followed in 2025 by a high complication minute repeater, housed in a cushion shaped case that proved far easier to digest than the Oursin for a broader audience.

This year, the attractive cushion shaped case returns at LVMH Watch Week in a crowd pleasing format: time only. The new Geneva Time Only is smaller and thinner than the repeater and, quite frankly, strikes the right note on multiple fronts. The design delivers genuine vintage vibes, while the build quality ensures a distinctly modern feel in the hand.

All new case

While the cushion-shaped case may suggest that the Geneva Time Only is a vintage reissue, it is not. One of the watch’s key highlights is that the case is an entirely new design by the current Gérald Genta team. It clearly takes cues from the past, but it is no copy. Instead, it is an original creation led by Mathieu Hegi, Artistic Director of La Fabrique du Temps. This is what a thoughtful revival should look like – not just bringing back the past, but continuing the legacy.

The brand new cushion-shaped case design by the current Gérald Genta team

The cushion shape is simple in theory, essentially a square with rounded edges, but it becomes far more interesting in execution. A key element is the double-stepped bezel, which adds a slightly bubbly character and softens the inherent seriousness of the squarish case.

Part of the watch’s appeal comes from how the squarish case flows gently into a round dial. The applied hour markers form a perfect circle, creating a subtle contrast with the cushion-shaped outer case. The railroad-style minute track highlights this transition, with an outer track echoing the cushion shape and an inner track forming a clean circle. It’s a small, playful detail that gives the watch a quietly distinctive character.

The applied hour markers form a perfect circle, creating a subtle contrast with the cushion-shaped outer case

This year, the design has been taken further through improved proportions. While the minute repeater measured 40 mm, the time only version comes in at 38 mm, with a height of just 8.15 mm. That is satisfyingly slim considering the presence of an automatic movement. It may not be as small as the watches of the 1970s that inspired it, but it clearly conveys the spirit of the era. Slim, compact, and fitted with tiny lugs paired with a thin leather strap, it delivers the small watch look on the wrist that many vintage watch enthusiasts will immediately appreciate. A compact watch with strong design does not need to shout to make its point, and that is exactly what this one does.

Marrone and Grafite

Offered in two different colour executions, the new Geneva Time Only is available exclusively in precious metals, resulting in a cohesive tone on tone look. The rose gold version is paired with a warm brass toned dial, while the white gold model comes with a silver grey dial. Both feature a grained surface with a subtle gradient effect, lighter at the centre and darker towards the edges.

It’s a charming look – playful and unpretentious, nodding to the 1970s, yet unmistakably modern, with precise execution that reflects contemporary watchmaking standards.

Support from a sister brand

Like the inaugural Oursin, the Geneva Time Only is powered by a movement from Gérald Genta’s sister brand, Zenith. The GG-005P, based on the Elite, features a redesigned rotor visible through the open caseback. Measuring 25.6 mm wide and just 3.88 mm thick, it shares the compact proportions of a classic ETA 2892. Running at 4 Hz with 50 hours of power reserve, it delivers precise, reliable performance in a perfectly sized package.

Tech Specs: Gérald Genta Geneva Time Only

Reference ECFD01A1 (Marrone); ECFF01A1 (Grafite)
Movement GG-005P (Zenith Elite); automatic; 50 hours power reserve; 4Hz or 28,800vph
Functions Hours and minutes
Case 38mm x 8.15mm; 18k rose gold or white gold; water resistant to 30m
Strap Calfskin leather strap
Price CHF 25,000