Zenith is all about its signature timekeepers at LVMH Watch Week this year, debuting two new versions of its signature El Primero chronograph. These models are well-suited to the contemporary market, ranging from a steel integrated sports model to a gold version with a rainbow bezel.

Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton

First up is the crowd-favorite: the Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton, a watch that feels long overdue for its debut. With an integrated bracelet, angular bezel, skeletonized dial, and chronograph, this combination speaks the language of masculinity with ease.

If the watch feels familiar, it’s because Zenith’s Defy family is extensive, with many models sharing similar design languages or elements. This isn’t necessarily a drawback, as it creates a sense of coherence, so get your Defy family members right. For skeletonized chronographs, there’s the Defy 21 lineup, recognized for its round bezel, and the Defy Extreme, which lives up to its name with a rugged case design. However, something that strikes a perfect balance between these extremes has only just arrived — the Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton manages to feel both sporty and elegant.

Most importantly, the Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton is original. While it shares some traits on paper with other watches — such as the integrated bracelet sports watch and angular bezel formula — it doesn’t attempt to mimic them. Its inspiration comes directly from the brand’s own Defy models from six decades ago.

But the star here (pardon the pun) is on the dial. With the dial skeletonized and part of the movement hollowed out, the watch immediately looks much better than its solid-dial counterpart. It’s sportier, cooler, and younger.

One reason it feels right is that the complex dial, with its many nuanced parts, breaks up the mass of the watch. Without it, the design could appear as a solid chunk of metal — from bracelet to case to dial — looking visually heavy. Ironically, the skeletonized dial, despite its complexity, provides better visual balance and is more pleasing to the eye.

Two new colors were debuted, either blue or dark gray for the dial and movement coating. Both versions are paired with very legible silver chronograph rings and hour markers. In cases like this, when the design is already strong, plain classic colors always work nicely.

Inside the watch is the El Primero 3600, the brand’s latest generation chronograph movement. It boasts a 60-hour power reserve, even though it runs at a high beat of 36,000 vibrations per hour (5 Hz). The biggest upgrade, however, is the lighting chronograph seconds hand, which completes one revolution every 10 seconds — rather than 60 — allowing for extremely accurate readings down to 1/10th of a second.

Chronomaster Sport Rainbow

Zenith also introduces a new Chronomaster Sport Rainbow this year. Admittedly, the rainbow formula has been so widely used by many brands that it may no longer seem as striking. Yet, every time one sees a rainbow watch, it’s hard not to be amazed all over again.

That said, Zenith’s take on the rainbow differs slightly. The watch still features graduating color sapphires in a baguette cut, but it also incorporates diamonds to break up the gradient. Interestingly, there are only 10 diamonds instead of 12 to match the hour markers. This creates an unusual look, setting it apart from other rainbow chronographs on the market.

Turn the watch over, and it presents a completely different look from the extravagant front. Here, it’s more understated with a silverish tone and a technical appearance, with all the chronograph parts visible thanks to a skeletonized rotor and somewhat skeletonized movement. It’s the definitive look of an El Primero 3600.

Tech Specs: Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton

Movement: Self-winding El Primero 3600SK; 60-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours and minutes; small seconds; chronograph
Case: 42mm; steel; water-resistant to 100m
Strap: Steel bracelet with an additional rubber strap
Price: USD 15,500

Tech Specs: Chronomaster Sport Rainbow

Movement: Self-winding El Primero 3600; 60-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours and minutes; small seconds; date; chronograph
Case: 41mm; 18K white gold; water-resistant to 100m
Strap: Steel bracelet with an additional rubber strap
Price: USD 112,100