Ever since LVMH took a majority shareholding in Tiffany & Co. in 2021, there has been a growing excitement in the watch world to see what the world’s biggest luxury group would enable the Maison to create. Although there have been glimpses of possibilities in models including the limited Jean Schlumberger jewelry timepieces introduced in 2023 and the unique pendant watch for last year’s Only Watch auction, this January has given the first real taste of things to come.

It is no accident that Tiffany & Co. decided to show the new watches alongside a selection of archival pieces. Although far from being facsimiles of Tiffany’s cocktail greats of the Gatsby era, the historical influences in the 2025 collection are immediately obvious, from the hints of Art Deco jewellery through to inspiration from Tiffany lamps and the legendary Bird on a Rock brooch.

Setting the scene, Anthony Ledru, CEO of Tiffany & Co. said: “Joining LVMH Watch Week for the first time marks a significant milestone in Tiffany’s journey as a storied Maison with an illustrious legacy in watchmaking. For over 180 years, Tiffany has been synonymous with the finest craftsmanship, unparalleled design and an unrelenting commitment to excellence. Our participation in this prestigious event not only allows us to share our rich history of inventiveness in the world of horology but also to showcase our vision for the future of Tiffany Watches.”

In addition to displaying current models from the Jean Schlumberger, Carat 128, HardWear and Eternity ranges, plus clocks from the Time Objects collection, Tiffany & Co. introduced five new models during LVMH Watch Week in New York City:

Jean Schlumberger by Tiffany Bird on a Rock Watches

Beloved by Babe Paley, Bunny Mellon, Diana Vreeland and Jackie Kennedy, and one of Tiffany & Co.’s most famous collaborators, the work of Jean Schlumberger (1907-1987) is revisited with two new additions to the Jean Schlumberger by Tiffany Bird on a Rock Watch. An evolution of the playful and artistic approach to watchmaking that sets Tiffany apart, these watches are a tribute to the French jewellery designer’s 1965 Bird on a Rock brooch. Here, the stone-set golden bird sits dial-side on a spinning peripheral ring and appears to hop with each movement of the wearer’s wrist.

The first new interpretation is the Bird on a Rock Full Pavé Diamond Watch in a 36mm white-gold case with five-row, white-gold bracelet. The entire watch is set with 1,362 round brilliant diamonds. The bird’s rotating perch is studded with 30 invisibly set baguette-cut aquamarines. Reminiscent of Schlumberger’s Arrow Rose Cut Diamond Brooch, the caseback features a starburst motif and a smattering of tiny diamonds, plus a time setting button for the quartz movement within the case.

The Bird on a Rock Tsavorite Watch features 36 baguette-cut green tsavorites on the peripheral ring with a diamond-studded bird perched atop. Presented on a green alligator-leather strap, both dial and case are snow-set with diamonds and the caseback is marked with the same arrow-inspired engraving as the full pavé version. Within the 39mm case is a Swiss self-winding movement.

Jean Schlumberger by Tiffany Twenty Four Stone Watch

Jean Schlumberger’s Sixteen Stone design was introduced in 1959 as a wedding ring. Inspired by his family’s roots of textile manufacturing, the cross-stitch pattern interwoven with diamonds is a Tiffany signature that has now been reinterpreted as a watch.

Limited by production (the making of the rotating ring involves 25 hours of work, the gem-setting and gold work requiring a further 80 hours), the white-gold watch is set with more than 700 diamonds weighing 6.5 carats. The stitches are represented by yellow-gold crosses on a rotating ring interspersed with 24 white diamonds. The free moving ring and the different shades of gold add to the sense of freedom and movement that was characteristic in Schlumberger’s work.

The diamonds at the centre of the dial and on the 39mm watch case are snow-set with minimal visible metal and the caseback features an engraving inspired by Schlumberger’s Floral Arrows brooch. The watch houses a Swiss self-winding calibre and is presented on a Tiffany Blue alligator-leather strap.

Eternity by Tiffany Wisteria Watch

Made of shaped, stained glass and copper wire, and created in the early 1900s by the aptly named ‘Tiffany Girls’ led by Clara Driscoll, the Tiffany lamp was heavily influenced by the Art Nouveau movement. An emphasis on nature led to designs such as Dragonfly, Poppy and Wisteria – the latter of which has now been reinterpreted as a watch dial.

Part of the Eternity collection, which uses different cuts of diamonds once showcased in engagement rings as hour markers, the floral dial of the Wisteria is executed in bright plique-à-jour enameling, where translucent enamel, here in shades of marine, seafoam and aqua, is suspended in metallic cells, allowing light to shine through and reflect on the metal. The 38mm, self-winding watch features 709 diamonds totalling more than 5 carats and involves over 150 man-hours to create each piece, which Tiffany & Co. warns will result in extremely limited production.

Carat 128 Collection

Known as The Tiffany Diamond, a rough stone discovered in 1877 in South Africa’s Kimberley mines was purchased by Charles Lewis Tiffany, the founder of Tiffany & Co., for $18,000 and went on to become one of the most famous gems on the planet. An extraordinary 128.54-carat cushion-cut yellow diamond, it has been worn by only four women — Audrey Hepburn, American socialite Mrs. E. Sheldon Whitehouse, Lady Gaga and Beyoncé Knowles — and today it sits on display at The Landmark, Tiffany & Co.’s flagship Fifth Avenue store in New York City.

In celebration of the Tiffany Diamond, Tiffany & Co. introduced the Carat 128 collection. The Carat 128 Facet comes in two 30mm variations with diamond set case and dial – white gold with white diamonds and a Tiffany Blue alligator-leather strap or yellow gold with yellow diamonds and a black brushed calfskin strap. Both have a faceted, cushion-shaped case and the yellow-gold model features a caseback engraved with ‘727’, the address of The Landmark. A Riviera High Jewelry model was also released earlier this year featuring a snow-set dial protected by a single, faceted piece of sapphire crystal and a diamond-set bracelet.

The pinnacle of the collection, however, was saved for LVMH Watch Week with the Carat 128 Aquamarine High Jewelry watch. With more than a passing resemblance to 2024’s magnificent pendant timepiece for Only Watch, this is a 27mm white-gold timepiece that features a snow-set dial and five-strand bracelet with 913 diamonds totaling more than 29 carats. Time is read through a dial crystal made from a single diamond-cut aquamarine of 34.52 carats, cut to resemble the shape of the Tiffany Diamond. The largest stones in the bracelet are fixed with six prongs, a reference to the famous Tiffany Setting used in engagement rings to increase the amount of light refracted by the diamonds. The setting alone requires more than 300 hours by a master jeweler.

Tiffany & Co. The Archival Collection

Until relatively recently, watch archives were greatly under-valued resources. Once viewed as anachronistic white elephants that had little impact on current sales volumes, brands have come to realize that it is in fact their pasts that create the authenticity and authority that many buyers – especially those new to watch collecting – are looking for in contemporary timepieces.

The histories of America’s early-20th century watch and jewelry houses from Dreicer and Marcus through to the Cartier Fifth Avenue Mansion, provide some of the most fascinating and relevant social commentaries that touch on all areas of life from fashion and leisure through to business and banking. But one house that has a stronger story here than almost all others is Tiffany & Co. and with this in mind, the brand, under the ownership of LVMH since 2021, is doubling down on its efforts to build a comprehensive heritage collection.

Exhibited this week at LVMH watch week in New York will be a small selection of important historical pieces that document moments in time and memories from the past century. Among them is one of the most important artefacts relating to the Titanic – a pocket watch that was sold by Tiffany & Co. in 1912 and was later given to Captain Arthur Rostron of the R.M.S. Carpathia, the first vessel to come to the aid of the White Star Line ship after it struck an iceberg and sank. The Carpathia’s crew pulled 705 men, women and children from lifeboats in the icy water, among them Madeleine Talmage Astor, Marian Longstreth Thayer and Eleanor Elkins Widener, whose husbands were three of the wealthiest businessmen in the world and who all perished on the Titanic.

The Tiffany Archive retains a ledger that records Mrs. G. D. Widener purchasing the watch with case number 40198, on 24 May 1912, for $135.12. About a month after the disaster, the three women presented the pocket watch, engraved with the date of the sinking and featuring the enameled monogram AHR on its caseback, to Captain Rostron at a luncheon hosted by Astor at her Fifth Avenue mansion. The watch bears an inscription inside the caseback that reads, “Presented to Captain Rostron with the heartfelt gratitude and appreciation of three survivors of the Titanic April 15th, 1912, Mrs. John B. Thayer, Mrs. John Jacob Astor, and Mrs. George D. Widener.”

The Tiffany & Co. Titanic pocket watch remained in the family of Captain Rostron for several decades before passing into the hands of a private collector. The piece was sold again by UK-based auction house Henry Aldrige & Son in November 2024 when, despite only its hour hand remaining in situ (the minute and small seconds hands have now been replaced.) This pocket watch was purchased by Tiffany & Co. for $1.97 million, making it the most expensive Titanic memorabilia ever sold.

Sitting alongside 20 other archival timepieces dating from 1870, Tiffany & Co. aims to retell its horological story, one that spans more than 150 years and includes some of the finest design, innovation and jewellery work ever seen. Below are some of the top watches displayed:

Tech Specs: Tiffany & Co. Bird on a Rock Full Pavé Diamond Watch

Movement: High-precision Swiss quartz movement
Functions: Hours and minutes
Case: 36mm; white gold; set with 366 round brilliant diamonds; caseback engraved with sunburst motif
Dial: Centre set with 366 round brilliant diamonds; outer dial ring set with 30 baguette aquamarines; bird set with 120 round brilliant diamonds and a round pink sapphire
Strap: White-gold bracelet set with 628 round full-cut diamonds
Price: TBC

Tech Specs: Tiffany & Co. Bird on a Rock Tsavorite Watch

Movement: LTM 2100, Swiss manufactured, self-winding movement with 38-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours and minutes
Case: 39mm; white gold; set with 413 round brilliant diamonds; water-resistant to 30m
Dial: Centre set with 166 round brilliant diamonds; outer dial ring set with 36 baguette-cut tsavorites; bird set with 99 round brilliant diamonds and a round pink sapphire
Strap: Dark-green alligator-leather
Price: TBC

Tech Specs: Tiffany & Co. Jean Schlumberger by Tiffany Twenty Four Stone Watch

Movement: LTM 2100, Swiss manufactured, self-winding movement with 38-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours and minutes
Case: 39mm; white gold; snow-set with 413 round brilliant diamonds; caseback engraved with sunburst motif
Dial: Central dial snow-set with 220 diamonds; outer rotating ring set with 24 round brilliant diamonds and 12 yellow-gold cross-stitches
Strap: Tiffany Blue alligator-leather
Price: TBC

Tech Specs: Tiffany & Co. Eternity by Tiffany Wisteria Watch

Movement: LTM 2100, Swiss manufactured, self-winding movement with 38-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours and minutes
Case: 38mm; white gold and diamonds; water-resistant to 30m
Dial: Wisteria pattern in plique-à-jour enamel
Strap: Marine blue alligator-leather
Price: TBC

Tech Specs: Tiffany & Co. Carat 128 Facet Watch

Movement: High-precision Swiss quartz movement
Functions: Hours and minutes
Case: 30mm; white or yellow gold; set with 192 round brilliant white or yellow diamonds; water-resistant to 30m
Dial: Set with 48 round brilliant white or yellow diamonds
Strap: Tiffany Blue alligator leather or black brushed calfskin
Availability: The yellow diamond model will be exclusive to The Landmark, Fifth Avenue, NYC
Price: TBC

Tech Specs: Tiffany & Co. Carat 128 High Jewellery watch

Movement: High-precision Swiss quartz movement
Functions: Hours and minutes
Case: 27mm; white gold; set with 255 round brilliant diamonds; water-resistant to 30m
Dial: Set with 382 round brilliant diamonds and protected by a single diamond-cut aquamarine of 34.52 carats
Strap: Five-row bracelet with prong-set diamonds inspired by the Tiffany Setting engagement ring; 267 diamonds of over 27 total carats
Price: TBC