For many new enthusiasts, the first watch they add to their collection is either a safe, cult favourite, or a wild card they might hesitate to mention years later. But not all first picks have to come with disclaimers. Every so often, there’s a piece that gets everything right – the design, the size, the build quality – without shouting for attention. The Longines Master Collection Small Seconds is exactly that – quietly confident, effortlessly right.

A unique proposition

In an era where watchmakers often mine their archives, it’s still uncommon to see classical, time-only dress watches. Most often, we see military, dive, or integrated bracelet watches, but rarely something else.

The Small Seconds is a standout. Its 38.5mm case is well proportioned, paired with a dial that feels both timeless and distinctive. Traditional Breguet numerals, feuille hands and a small seconds subdial lend it a character that’s hard to come by at this price point.

But this isn’t a revival. While the typography and hands are a nod to Longines’ heritage, the execution is entirely original—an homage that doesn’t rely on replication, but reimagines the spirit of the past for today.

This originality is evident in the dial’s execution, where Longines shows careful attention to detail in selecting colors and textures. Longines offers three dial colors: silver, salmon, and anthracite. The latter two are less common in modern watches. Each color has a distinct texture: the silver features a fine graining, the anthracite has a coarser grain, and the “salmon” has a vertical brushing. These textures help the dials stand out from the usual “sunburst” or lacquered finishes typically found on other watches.

An excellent choice of typography for the logo. It comes close to the vintage originals, where the kerning back then carried a touch more rhythm.

Another highlight is the use of modern technology to enhance the dial’s depth. The hour markers are deeply engraved using a laser, with well-defined, “V”-shaped facets that mimic hand engraving. It’s uncommon for laser engraving to achieve such depth, and Longines has managed to combine the precision of modern technology with a handmade feel, maintaining quality while keeping the cost reasonable.

Beautiful azurage work on the petite seconds counter catches the light as it moves

The attention to detail continues with other elements of the dial that are often overlooked in typical watches. This is especially clear in the flange that frames the dial. It’s gently sloped and horizontally brushed, with dotted markers that subtly form a minute track. Every five-minute mark is slightly larger and has a shinier surface finish, showcasing thoughtful craftsmanship.

It’s difficult to find faults with the dial, though one minor point of critique could be the hour hand. It might be more refined if it were slightly less bulky, better matching the elegance of the minute hand. That said, both the hour and minute hands are nicely crafted, with a subtly domed profile that gives them a solid, well-made appearance.

On closer look the hour hand carries a slightly different character from the minute hand

Modestly sized

One of the standout features of the Small Seconds is its more compact size compared to its predecessor. At 38.5mm, the Small Seconds feels more classical than the 40mm center-seconds version. The short, curved lugs ensure a comfortable fit, a notable improvement over the earlier Heritage models, which could often feel too large or long on the wrist.

However, with the seconds hand relocated to the six o’clock position, the movement requires additional gearing, which increases the watch’s thickness. As a result, the Small Seconds measures 10.mm in height. While it is far from being thick, it doesn’t quite achieve the slim profile one might expect.

This could be due to the proportions of the case. The bezel and case middle have an almost 50-50 split, which is unusual, as the bezel is typically thinner. This gives the watch a bulkier appearance, especially when viewed from angles that aren’t directly perpendicular to the watch. It’s part of the reason why some journalists have described the watch as feeling thicker than expected, despite its relatively thin case.

A potential solution could be reducing the thickness of the bezel, which might require resizing the inner flange or narrowing the space between the hands. In doing so, the dial would appear denser, giving the watch a more refined and upscale look.

Up-to-date workhorse

Inside the watch is the L893.5, Longines’ latest-generation ETA movement, now featuring an impressive 3-day power reserve, a significant upgrade from the 42 hours of the ETA 2892 it’s based on. Additionally, Longines has equipped the movement with a silicon hairspring, which offers better resistance to magnetic fields compared to traditional Nivarox-type alloys. The extended power reserve and non-magnetic hairspring both represent technical features generally associated with much more expensive watches and come off as an unexpected bonus given the watch’s classical, vintage look and accessible price point. 

However, as an uncomplicated workhorse, the movement isn’t finished to a particularly high standard, especially when it comes to the perlage on the automatic winding bridge. For watch enthusiasts used to higher-end pieces, a closed case back – perhaps a fully polished domed back with simple engraving – might be preferred. 

That said, the open case back isn’t a major issue for most. However, it would be nice if Longines refined the finishing just a little, perhaps with sand-blasting or brushing instead, which would provide a cleaner appearance. But then again, at this price point, it’s hard to begrudge. There’s a quiet dignity in its celebration of the fundamentals.

Additional musings

With this beautifully classic timepiece, one can’t help but hope that Longines continues to craft even more elegant designs in the future. Fans of vintage Longines watches from the mid-20th century would surely appreciate a thinner, smaller model that wears effortlessly on the wrist.

Kudos to Longines for introducing a 34mm Master with a center seconds hand, finished with a pink gold-capped bezel. It’s easy to imagine the Small Seconds taking a similar path one day – perhaps in a 34 to 36mm case, with a hand-wound movement that could shave off a few millimetres. A small watch needs to stay slim – something I’ve come to appreciate when wearing my vintage 1960s Longines. Just 30mm across, yet with its slender profile and octagonal case, it still feels perfectly fitting on a man’s wrist.

Given Longines’ expertise in refining ETA movements, one can only hope that the hand-wound ETA 7001 will someday receive an update and find its way into a modern classic. This would not only broaden Longines’ offerings but also appeal to a wider market, attracting both modern watch enthusiasts and vintage collectors looking for a waterproof, worry-free timepiece.

Concluding thoughts

The Master Collection Small Seconds is a straightforward value proposition, and in that regard, something of a perfect watch, solidly grounded in mid-20th century design, while being a modern, fuss-free watch with a reliable movement. It feels instantly at home on the wrist; the deeply engraved Breguet numerals and the elegant feuille hands provide just the right amount of flourish and offers a more upscale presence than many of its peers in the USD 2,500 range.  Whether it’s a no-stress daily watch for a seasoned collector or the first timepiece for a young enthusiast, it’s well-made, well-proportioned, and well-priced.

Tech Specs: Longines Master Collection Small Seconds

References:
Ref. L2.843.4.93.2 (salmon)
Ref. L2.843.4.63.2 (anthracite)
Ref. L2.843.4.73.2 (silver)
Movement: L893.5; automatic; 72 hours power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, and seconds
Case: 38.5mm x 10.2 mm; steel; water resistant to 30 m
Dial: Salmon, anthracite, or silver
Strap: Alligator strap with folding buckle
Availability: At Longines boutiques and retailers
Limited edition: No
Price: USD 2,500