Grand Seiko at Watches & Wonders 2025: Spring Drive U.F.A., “Tokyo Lion” & “Mount Iwate” Tentagraph, And More
Grand Seiko at Watches & Wonders 2025: Spring Drive U.F.A., “Tokyo Lion” & “Mount Iwate” Tentagraph, And More
Grand Seiko unveiled five models at Watches & Wonders 2025, including two all-new watches developed from the ground up. The highlight is the new 37mm Evolution 9 Spring Drive watches — the smallest watch in the collection to date — thanks to a newly developed movement designed for compact sizing and Ultra Fine Accuracy (U.F.A.), with a maximum deviation of just 20 seconds per year.
Evolution 9 Collection Spring Drive U.F.A. SLGB001 & SLGB003
The new SLGB001 and SLGB003 introduce a major milestone in Spring Drive technology. At their core is the newly developed Caliber 9RB2, the most accurate Spring Drive movement to date and and the most accurate mainspring-powered wristwatch currently in production, with a remarkable precision of ±20 seconds per year. Additionally, for the first time, an Evolution 9 Spring Drive watch is presented in a sub-40 mm case. These watches measure just 37mm wide, compared to the 40mm predecessors. This is great news for anyone who prefer a more compact fit on the wrist.
The 9RB2 pays homage to Grand Seiko’s legendary Very Fine Adjusted (V.F.A.) mechanical movements from the 1960s and 1970s, which represented the pinnacle of mechanical precision. Now, Grand Seiko carries that legacy into the modern era. The Caliber 9RB2 represents a significant leap forward in spring-powered accuracy, not just a tribute to the past, but a clear expression of what’s now possible through contemporary engineering.
This remarkable precision is made possible by advancements in Grand Seiko’s technology. The new U.F.A. movement features a newly developed integrated circuit with thermo-compensation. Its oscillator and temperature sensor are vacuum-sealed, both to minimize temperature fluctuations and to shield the regulating components from external factors such as humidity, static electricity, and light. Notably, it also includes a regulation switch, which allows fine regulation of the movement during service.
Of course, this new release features a beautifully patterned dial, available in silver or blue, depending on the case material. Notably, Grand Seiko has introduced a micro-adjustment clasp on the titanium bracelet for the very first time. This is great news for all fans of the brand. It’s certainly a watch worth a closer look — read our hands-on review here.
Tech Specs: Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Collection Spring Drive U.F.A.
Reference: SLGB001 (platinum) & SLGB003 (titanium)
Movement: Self-winding Cal. 9RB2; 72-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours minutes, central seconds; date
Case: 37 mm ×11.4 mm; High-Intensity Titanium or platinum; 100m water-resistance
Dial: Blue (platinum); silver-tinged-blue (titanium)
Strap: Black crocodile strap with folding clasp (platinum); matching High-Intensity Titanium bracelet (titanium)
Limited edition: Limited to 80 pieces for the platinum model
Price: USD 39,000 (platinum) and USD 10,900 (titanium)
Sport Collection Tokyo Lion Tentagraph SLGC009
In 2019, when Grand Seiko celebrated the 20th anniversary of Spring Drive, it introduced a trio of unexpected sports watches featuring an extra-angular case and a “lion mane” dial. That series has now been refreshed with an even more intricate case in the Tokyo Lion Tentagraph SLGC009. For the first time, this model features a mechanical chronograph movement instead of Spring Drive.
The new case design is far more nuanced. The flat bezel is gone, replaced by one with its own facets, adding extra depth and dimension. The case itself is a testament to Grand Seiko’s precision engineering and finishing — it almost serves as a statement piece showcasing the brand’s expertise in making high-quality cases.
Beyond aesthetics, the watch is also more wearable. The case is less square in its footprint, making it narrower across the wrist for improved comfort. Additionally, the gently curved case back enhances the fit, ensuring a more natural feel on the wrist.
Interestingly, Grand Seiko has removed the signature “lion mane” dial, yet still calls the model Tokyo Lion. However, the new dial retains a subtle homage to the mane. The horizontal stripes are designed to evoke the look of a lion’s mane blown by the wind, and the golden-brown color is unmistakable.
Tech Specs: Grand Seiko Sport Collection Tokyo Lion Tentagraph
Reference: SLGC009
Movement: Self-winding Cal. 9SC5; 72-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours and minutes; small seconds; date; chronograph functions
Case: 43mm × 15.6mm; Brilliant Hard Titanium; 200m water-resistance
Dial: Brown textured dial
Strap: Brown rubber strap with folding clasp
Price: € 17,500
Evolution 9 Tentagraph “Mount Iwate” SLGC007
Another new mechanical chronograph from Grand Seiko is the Evolution 9 Tentagraph SLGC007. While it may appear simpler than the Tokyo Lion, its appeal is undoubtedly broader. With a clean design, a panda-like contrast, and the beloved Mount Iwate radial pattern dial in ice blue, this watch feels instantly refreshing and captivating. More importantly, it stands out as one of the best-looking ice-blue chronograph watches on the market today.
The Tentagraph shares the same 43mm width as the Tokyo Lion but is slightly thinner at 15.3mm. It is made from High-Intensity Titanium, reducing weight and enhancing comfort on the wrist.
Tech Specs: Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Tentagraph “Mount Iwate”
Reference: SLGC007
Movement: Self-winding Cal. 9SC5; 72-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, and chronograph
Case: 43mm × 15.3mm; Brilliant Hard Titanium; 200m water-resistance
Dial: Blue textured dial
Strap: Brilliant Hard Titanium bracelet
Price: USD 14,100
Heritage Collection Manual-Winding Mechanical “ Purple Kiri” SBGW323
The latest mid-size, hand-wound 44GS now debuts in an unusual yet elegant light kiri (Japanese for purple), applied to the fan-favorite Iwate-patterned dial. While this may seem like just a new color for an already established model, taking a step back reveals why this is actually an exciting release.
After all, how many 36mm hand-wound watches are available on the market today? The addition of a new color instantly expands the options for those seeking a smaller, hand-wound timepiece, a rarity among most brands. Moreover, the soft and refreshing hue enhances its appeal, especially for those who prefer a watch that feels less overtly masculine.
Tech Specs: Grand Seiko Heritage Collection Manual-Winding Mechanical “Purple Kiri”
Reference: SBGW323
Movement: Cal. 9S64; Manual; 72-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours and minutes; central seconds
Case: 36.5mm × 11.6mm; steel; 100m water-resistance
Dial: Purple textured dial
Strap: Steel bracelet
Price: USD 5,600
Masterpiece Collection Spring Drive 8-Day Jewelry Watch SBGD223
Last but not least is a high-jewelry watch, part of a collection that has slowly developed over the years. The collection first featured blue sapphire, followed by green garnets, and now the newest SBGD223 turns to black spinels and an abundance of diamonds, down to the lugs.
Despite its flashy front, the back of the watch is surprisingly classic in both design and finishing. It houses the highest-end Spring Drive movement from Grand Seiko, the cal. 9R01 with 8-day running time. It’s finished by the Micro Artist Studio, which is also responsible for the Credor Eichi lineup. Exquisitely made from every angle, this is undoubtedly the statement piece for any Grand Seiko fan, signaling that you already have some of the other fine Grand Seiko pieces at home.
Tech Specs: Grand Seiko Masterpiece Collection Spring Drive 8-Day Jewelry Watch
Reference: SBGD223
Movement: Manual-winding Cal. 9R01; 192-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours and minutes; central seconds
Case: 44.5mm × 14.4mm; platinum; 100m water-resistance
Dial: Black textured dial with black spinels and diamonds
Strap: Black crocodile leather strap with folding clasp
Limited edition: 8 pieces
Price: USD 320,000
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