Editorial

Grand Seiko and the Stillness of Nature

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Editorial

Grand Seiko and the Stillness of Nature

How Grand Seiko looks to the mountains for some of its most inspired dials.

 

Mountains, or Yama, are important in Japan. For centuries, these inaccessible and foreboding peaks have been deeply spiritual places — the home to gods, sources of renewal and symbols of strength. Mountains are synonymous with Japan — few more so than the mighty peak Mount Fuji, an active volcano that stands at 3,776 meters tall, looking down across the entirety of Japan. And while it has been some 300 years since Fuji-san last erupted, the underlying power of this mountain, like many of Japan’s volcanic peaks, only serves to accent its beauty.

 

So, it makes sense that mountains have been an important part of Grand Seiko’s approach to design, which is articulated as the Nature of Time. Indeed, mountains are integral to the landscape surrounding both of Grand Seiko’s manufacturing facilities — the Shinshu Watch Studio in the south, where the Spring Drive pieces are created, and the Studio Shizukuishi near Morioka, where the mechanical creations are given life. From sunlit mountain ranges to icy peaks, here are some of Grand Seiko’s most memorable tributes to the mighty mountains.

 

SBGE295 — The Green Slopes

Grand Seiko Sport SBGE295

 

The sporty SBGE295 is, like many of Grand Seiko’s creations, born in the Shinshu Watch Studio, a location blessed with views of both the Jonen and Hotaka mountain ranges. The Spring Drive GMT takes its aesthetic inspiration from the latter — specifically the Hotaka ranges in summer. The range of 21 mountains is dominated by Mount Hotakadake, a 3,190-meter tall peak, part of the Northern Alps, characterized by dramatic steep cliffs, clad in rich green forest, which are popular hiking routes in times when some snow lingers on the peaks — leading to the verdant panoramic landscape interspersed with slashes of blinding white snow.

 

This dramatic backdrop sets the scene and serves as the inspiration for the SBGE295 — with a patterned green dial, the subtle texture evokes either the topographical lines of a map or a dense pattern of mountain leaves. The white highlights — notably on the bezel — are a reminder of the crisp white snow . Of course, this is a watch made for rugged exploration, with a robust 44mm stainless steel case and bracelet, a 9R66 Spring Drive GMT and 200 meters of water resistance. It’s a watch that’s just as at home scaling mountains or skiing down them.

 

Grand Seiko Sport SBGE295

The patterned green dial, the subtle texture evokes either the topographical lines of a map or a dense pattern of mountain leaves

 

Tech Specs: Grand Seiko Sport SBGE295

Movement Self-winding Spring Drive Caliber 9R66; 72-hour power reserve
Functions Hours, minutes, seconds, date and second time zone
Case 44mm × 14.7mm; stainless steel; water resistant to 200m
Dial Green patterned; applied hour markers with LumiBrite coating
Strap Stainless steel bracelet with three-fold clasp
Price SGD 8,500

 

SBGA499 — Dawn on the Peak

Grand Seiko Elegance SBGA499

The rose-gold-toned “GS” logo and the coppery hue of the dial-side power reserve indicator that is a tell-tale sign of the Caliber 9R65

 

Mountains, somewhat ironically, are anything if monolithic. Proof of this can be found in the SBGA499, a piece from the Elegance collection that, like the SBGE295, takes its inspiration from the Hotaka mountain range. Here, the dial is a deep, rich, fiery red. It is the red of a mountain-side clad in turning leaves, lit by the brilliant glow of a morning sun. This shimmering vision of seasonal change is accentuated by the rose-gold-toned “GS” logo and the coppery hue of the dial-side power reserve indicator that is a tell-tale sign of the Caliber 9R65.

 

It’s this movement, the Spring Drive 9R65, that’s the second half of the story of the SBGA499. The watch was released in 2024 in part as a tribute to 20 years of this caliber — the first automatic Spring Drive, a technology unique to Grand Seiko, and built within view of the Hotaka mountain range.

 

Tech Specs: Grand Seiko Elegance SBGA499

Movement Self-winding Spring Drive Caliber 9R65; 72-hour power reserve
Functions Hours, minutes, seconds and date
Case 40.2mm × 12.8mm; stainless steel; water resistant to 100m
Dial Glossy red with recessed gold-colored power reserve indicator; applied beveled hour markers
Strap Stainless steel bracelet with three-fold clasp
Price SGD 7,700
Availability Limited edition of 1,300 pieces

 

SBGJ265 — The Heart of the Mountain

Grand Seiko Heritage SBGJ265

 

One of Grand Seiko’s most famous dials after the “Snowflake” is, of course, the Mount Iwate patterned dial featured on this piece from the Heritage collection, the SBGJ265. Mount Iwate, an imposing lone volcanic peak that dominates the Iwate Prefecture of Japan, is home to Grand Seiko’s Studio Shizukuishi, the birthplace of Grand Seiko’s mechanical watches. The fine texture gives the rich black dial an almost velvet appearance, giving the watch a remarkable and refined attitude.

 

Grand Seiko Heritage SBGJ265

The fine texture gives the rich black dial an almost velvet appearance, giving the watch a remarkable and refined attitude

 

The dial is well-matched with the 44GS-style case, a design which debuted in 1967, and has become foundational in the modern expression of Grand Seiko’s style. The final part of the equation is the movement — the high-beat Caliber 9S86, with a high beat rate of 36,000 vibrations per hour, making it particularly precise.

 

Tech Specs: Grand Seiko Heritage SBGJ265

Movement Self-winding Caliber 9S86; 55-hour power reserve
Functions Hours, minutes, seconds, date and second time zone
Case 40mm × 14mm; Ever-Brilliant Steel; water resistant to 100m
Dial Black with Mount Iwate pattern; applied hour markers
Strap Ever-Brilliant Steel bracelet with three-fold clasp
Price SGD 9,900

 

SLGC001 — Alpine Pursuits

Grand Seiko Evolution 9 SLGC001

 

Another more recent expression of the Mount Iwate dial pattern is the SLGC001, better known to the world as the Tentagraph. This large, sporty chronograph was made according to the principles of the Evolution 9 design philosophy, featuring broad hands and hour markers for maximum legibility. It’s a tribute to the power of Mount Iwate that the blue texture of the dial manages to compel the eye, even on a complicated chronograph dial.

 

Grand Seiko Evolution 9 SLGC001

This watch featuring broad hands and hour markers for maximum legibility

 

There’s more to this watch than the design language and the dramatic blue dial. Its movement represents Grand Seiko’s first-ever mechanical chronograph, and the Tentagraph name describes its key features — the ten beats per second chronograph and three days of power reserve, giving it the longest power reserve of any high-beat chronograph on the market today.

 

Grand Seiko Evolution 9 SLGC001

Grand Seiko Evolution 9 SLGC001

 

Tech Specs: Grand Seiko Evolution 9 SLGC001

Movement Self-winding Caliber 9SC5; 72-hour power reserve
Functions Hours, minutes, seconds, date and chronograph
Case 43.2mm × 15.3mm; High-Intensity Titanium with ceramic bezel; water resistant to 100m
Dial Blue with Mount Iwate pattern; applied hour markers with LumiBrite coating
Strap High-Intensity Titanium bracelet with three-fold clasp
Price SGD 19,000