Geneva Watch Days 2023: Armin Strom One Week First Edition with an Integrated Bracelet
New case, bracelet, and movement.
The most obvious change compared to the original 2010 version is the design. The new First Edition features a more streamlined case, moving away from the “triple” lugs that evoke Lange & Hyne watches. The new case incorporates integrated lugs and, naturally, an integrated bracelet, resulting in a more fluid appearance. The only element that stands out is the crown guard, which is common in integrated bracelet sport watches.
On the other hand, the dial has been made more intricate. It has been openworked to expose more of the twin barrels, along with the new feeler-and-cone power reserve mechanism.
These two alterations are a positive step, as they lend a more professional air with the skeletonized dial while preserving an overall clean and sleek look, thanks to the streamlined case.
In terms of color, Armin Strom has adopted the fashionable light blue and combines it with black to create a strong contrast and a refreshing look and feel. Notably, the application of light blue continues throughout the watch, and in an unusual manner, the movement plates are also dressed up in light blue, completing a full package and demonstrating attention to detail.
Seven days running time
The new watch is named the One Week due to its extended power reserve of precisely seven days. While a long power reserve is no longer that unusual, it still captures attention when encountered, especially since the standard usually settles at about three days.
Furthermore, the movement holds special significance for the brand, not only because of the power reserve, but also because it represents the brand’s inaugural movement development. According to the brand, it developed and constructed the ARM09 in 2009, and it was employed in the 2010 launch of the original version of the One Week.
Today, the new ARM21 movement retains the distinctive one-week power reserve but has undergone several upgrades. First, the beat rate has been increased from 18,000 vibrations per hour to 25,200 vibrations per hour, which should result in improved timekeeping stability.
Second, the power reserve indicator has been relocated from the sub-dial at nine o’clock (see the One Week Air above) to a dedicated counter at 11 o’clock. Additionally, the mechanism for the power reserve indicator has shifted from the more common differential gear system to a more traditional feeler-and-cone system. Not only is the new mechanism more interesting, but the redesign also adds to the symmetrical layout with two new bridges on the left, echoing the two barrels on the right.
As the watch is wound and unwound, a visible cone located around seven o’clock moves up and down a vertical screw. This movement of the cone is then sensed by a ruby-tipped feeler, positioned just below the eight o’clock marker. The feeler reads the cone’s height (via tension) and transmits this information to the power reserve display at 11 o’clock. The transmission itself is not visible, as it is concealed beneath the time-telling sub-dial, and it occurs through a rack and an intermediate wheel.
Armin Strom One Week First Edition Specs and Price
Movement: ARM21, manual wind, 7 days of power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and power reserve indicator
Case: 41 x 10.6 mm, steel, water-resistant to 100 m
Strap: Steel bracelet
Limited edition: 25 pieces
Price: USD 34,000
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FROM THE SHOP
|Movement||Self-winding caliber BR.CAL-301; 42-hour power reserve|
|Functions||Hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph and date|
|Case||41mm; CuAI7Si2 bronze; water resistant to 100m|
|Dial||Sunray brushed with applied, gold-plated indices|
|Strap||Black calfskin; satin polished bronze folding clasp|
|Limited Edition||Limited edition of 50 pieces|