The Low-Down

History can be a gift or a curse. For some, it is a burden, something to be overcome through steadfast effort; for others, a source of inspiration and momentum. The same can be said for companies, specifically those with long lineages and proud pedigrees. Too rash, and they run the risk of losing that which made them distinct, to begin with. Too reverent, and that same heritage which is so boldly held aloft as inspiration can quickly become an albatross upon the neck of even the best of brands.

The truth is, far too many watch companies and grand maisons are relegated to reliving the glory days through the routine of reference and homage, their finest innovations and defining achievements reduced to mere bromides – a self-imprisonment resulting in obsolescence or cliché. But, fortunately for both customer and company alike, there are exceptions to this cautionary tale. Some brands, those illustrious few, continue along in their own manner, their presence ebbing and flowing with the tides of taste, steadily growing and evolving in keeping with their own conventions – staying the course set forth for them generations ago. Such is the case for Carl F. Bucherer, celebrating its 135 anniversary this very year.

To mark such an auspicious occasion, Carl F. Bucherer, that self-same house synonymous with the finest watch buying experiences for which one could hope, has released a capsule collection which dauntlessly sets the stage for years to come. This capsule consists of not one, not two, but five commanding timepieces – reinterpretations of some of their most seminal work. To reveal this contemporary collection, the brand has chosen to not only celebrate its own horological achievements, but to do so in a way which highlights its global standing with each watch being launched on the same day, but two hours apart in a different city around the world.

Manero Tourbillon Double Peripheral Black

The Tourbillon has long been a pinnacle of horological prowess. Once used to measure time to a chronometric degree, lest an entire ship of sailors drift perilously off course, it is now used more, one could say, to measure the capabilities of a manufacture. Encased in forged carbon and limited to just 30 pieces, the Manero Tourbillon Double Peripheral Black is no exception. As though the marbled case didn’t strike a distinguished image enough on its own, the brilliant tourbillon bursts from the exhibition caseback and through the glossy black dial like the full moon pierces an obsidian night sky.

Manero Peripheral Perpetual Calendar Black

Often reserved for traditional, precious metal timepieces, the Perpetual Calendar is a staple of classical high watchmaking. But at 41mm and encased within forged carbon and reinforced by an internal titanium container, the Manero Peripheral Perpetual Calendar Black, limited to 88 pieces, is an entirely different creation – more forward thinking than its predecessors. Indeed, there is a certain poetry to the idea of a brand, itself having existed for more than a century, creating a timepiece self-possessed with a centenary perspective. With the intention of its accurate and sustained operation enduring the decades until 2100 (at which point only a minor adjustment will be required) and encased in a distinctly futuristic material, this is a decidedly forward thinking timepiece in several respects.

Manero Peripheral BigDate Black

A kaleidoscope of charming asymmetry, the Manero Peripheral BigDate Black is a watch for those who seek to observe the passing of time in a distinct, daring, and perhaps whimsical manner. A provocative and refreshing dial acts as the stage for elegant indices and razor-sharp, flawlessly polished sword hands. With a big date window, power reserve, weekday indicator, and small seconds sub dial, it is a dial which, in lesser hands, could have become rather cluttered. However, set against an Inky black backdrop and encased in forged carbon, it is a timepiece which becomes both dressy and sporty. Limited to 188 pieces.

Manero Flyback Black

The Manero Flyback has been a staple of the Carl F. Bucherer catalogue for some time now. A touch of that mid-century chronograph balance and elegance is present, though certainly modernized in keeping with the last 20 years of watchmaking. But now, presented in a DLC black stainless still and finished a flawless matte black lacquer, The Manero Flyback Black is at once classic and entirely current. As debonair as a finely tailored tuxedo.

Heritage BiCompax Annual Black

Taking its inspiration from throughout the brand’s 135 years, the Heritage BiCompax Annual Black is a masterclass in the creation of an elegant, commanding annual calendar chronograph. The broad, blocky pushers stand like herculean gates to its function – balanced by resolute subdials and a bright white contrasting Big Date at 12 and month window at 4:30. Like the Flyblack Black, the BiCompax Annual Black is cased in a DLC black stainless steel with inky matte black lacquer.

IMHO

Heritage casts a long shadow and for many brands, it’s a shadow which they never fully step out from behind. Tradition exists for the sake of tradition and no one dares to deviate. Or perhaps worse still, that core identity which made a brand special is forgotten in favor of new for the sake of new. With this capsule collection, Carl F. Bucherer has managed to, rather triumphantly, walk a tightrope between remaining true to its identity of classic elegance and defiantly stepping in a more modern, perhaps even futuristic direction. Watches and complications, which, when set in steel or yellow gold, would feel rather traditional, become something refreshing and bold when housed in perfectly lacquered black DLC or rich, marbled forged carbon. It’s a nuanced, yet still rather exhilarating thing to behold. Well done indeed.

Tech Specs

Manero Tourbillon Double Peripheral Black

Reference: 00.10920.16.33.01
Movement: Automatic, CFB T3000 manufacture caliber, COSC-certified chronometer, power reserve 65 hours
Functions: Floating tourbillon, seconds stop, hour, minute, small seconds
Case: Forged carbon with titanium container, water-resistant to 3 bar, 43.10 by 12.30 mm
Dial: Domed, deep black matte with rhodium-plated wedge index marks
Strap: Hybrid rubber strap with ‘carbon’ texture and quick-release system, DLC-coated titanium and stainless-steel pin lock folding clasp
Availability: USD 60,900, limited to 30 pieces

Manero Peripheral Perpetual Calendar Black

Reference: 00.10916.16.33.01
Movement: Automatic, CFB A2055 manufacture caliber, COSC-certified chronometer, power reserve 55 hours
Functions: Perpetual calendar (month, date, and weekday), leap year, moon phase, hour, minute
Case: Forged carbon with titanium container, water resistant to 3 bar, 41.6 by 12.49 mm
Dial: Deep black matte with rhodium-plated wedge index marks
Strap: Hybrid rubber strap with ‘Milky Way’ texture and quick-release system, DLC-coated titanium and stainless-steel pin lock folding clasp
Availabiltiy: USD 36,700, limited to 88 pieces

Manero Peripheral Big Date Black

Reference: 00.10926.16.33.01
Movement: Automatic, CFB A2011 manufacture caliber, COSC-certified chronometer, power reserve 65 hours
Functions: Big date, weekday, power reserve indicator, hour, minute, small seconds
Case: Forged carbon with titanium container, water resistant to 3 bar, 41.6 by 12.82 mm
Strap: Hybrid rubber strap with ‘brushed’ texture and quick-release system, DLC-coated titanium and stainless-steel pin lock folding clasp
Availability: USD 22,900, limited to 188 pieces

Manero Flyback Black

Reference: 00.10919.12.33.01
Movement: Automatic, CFB 1970 caliber, power reserve 42 hours
Functions: Chronograph with minute and seconds counters, flyback, tachymeter, date, hour, minute, small seconds
Case: DLC-coated stainless steel, water resistant to 3 bar, 43 by 14.45 mm
Hands: Rhodium-plated wedge hands
Strap: Hybrid rubber strap with ‘pyramid’ texture and quick-release system, DLC-coated titanium and stainless-steel pin lock folding clasp
Price: USD 8,100

Heritage BiCompax Annual Black

Reference: 00.10803.12.33.01
Movement: Automatic, CFB 1972 caliber, power reserve 42 hours
Functions: Chronograph with minute and seconds counters, tachymeter, annual calendar, big date, hour, minute, small seconds
Case: DLC-coated stainless steel, water resistant to 3 bar, 41 by 14.15 mm
Hands: Rhodium-plated wedge hands
Strap: Hybrid rubber strap with ‘Clous de Paris’ texture and quick-release system, DLC-coated titanium and stainless-steel pin lock folding clasp.
Price: USD 8,800