Now into its 10^th year, the Bulgari Octo Finissimo has won over legions of fans since its first model appeared in 2014. Throughout this time, Bulgari and the collection have explored every aspect of fine watchmaking, from high and grand complications to gorgeously finished special editions — all complete with an ultra-thin touch. And then there are the Octo Finissimo Sketch series which bats on a whole new level of originality and design ingenuity, and which now sees three new models enter the fray.

Launched as part of the brand’s 140^th anniversary celebrations, these pieces explore even further the notion of a sketch dial. Earlier versions of the Octo Finissimo Sketch feature dials hand-sketched by Bulgari’s product creation executive director Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani. Indexes, numerals, minute track, sub-dials are rendered as raw pencil line art — literally taken from Buonamassa Stigliani’s actual drawings of the watches. Such a stroke of genius. And this year he’s taken the concept up a notch, by rethinking the definition of an open-worked dial.

Instead of hand-sketched numerals and indexes, he has created a fabulous dial revealing the movement back beneath the dial, giving you the illusion that you were admiring the watch through an open case back. You could see those familiar, contemporary style bridges, where the balance would go, you can see exactly where the micro-rotor sits, and all of these highlighted by handwritten notes describing how he wants the caliber to be finessed. Yes, it is exactly as meta as it sounds.

What Bulgari intends is for this design to reveal the soul of the watch, and by that of course the brand is referring to the movement — its mechanical soul, if you will. Hence the brilliant decision to fuse the sketch and the back of the movement. Marrying art with technique, all on the dial.

Octo Finissimo Automatic Sketch

There are two key references introduced this year. First up, the Octo Finissimo Automatic Sketch which takes a minimalist route on the concept. This piece allows you to view in striking detail the watch’s micro-rotor, escapement, bridges, rubies, and intricate finishing details such as Côtes de Genève, circular graining and more. Available in two limited editions — 280 pieces in steel and 70 in rose gold — these watches express a distinct sensibility. The 18K 5N rose gold version unfolds in monochrome splendor, from its polished and satin-finished case and bracelet to its captivating dial, while the steel version, monochromatic as well, presents a more modern and urban look.

Each piece measures 40mm in diameter and 6.4 mm in slimness, powered by the in-house BVL 138 caliber (2.3 mm in height, automatic, with a 60-hour power reserve). The sapphire case back is uniquely etched with “EDIZIONE LIMITATA” and “1884 – 2024”to commemorate Bulgari’s 140^th anniversary, making each watch not just a timepiece but a celebration of heritage and craftsmanship.

Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Sketch

Next up, the Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Sketch follows in the footsteps of its self-winding sibling, revealing its movement caliber BVL 318 once again through a hand-sketched dial by Buonamassa Stigliani. Hot off the press, more images of this timepiece will be added to this story but for now we have this lovely view of the handsketched dial. Meanwhile, the wonderful caliber BVL 318 if you recall is a record-breaking ultra-thin self-winding movement wound not by a micro-rotor but a peripheral rotor. Enabling the watch to maintain its thinness while also keeping true to its identity as a modern sports chic timepiece, the peripheral rotor travels around the circumference of the movement, winding the barrel which can be seen between 11 and 12 o’clock.

This means that the dial of the Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Sketch portrays the front of the movement rather than the back, which is the primary difference between this model and the self-winding version. We love that the important details are all included, such as the balance wheel between 4 and 5 o’clock, the column wheel between 7 and 8 o’clock, and even the snailing on the barrel was beautifully captured. Again, lovely hand-written notes by Buonamassa Stigliani are scattered around the artwork, marking out where rubies should go, where Côtes de Genève finishing should be applied, details of the tri-compax chronograph sub-dials and even the Swiss Made label as well.

With a 43mm case and remarkably slim height of 8.75mm — which broke the record in 2019 — the Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Sketch is limited to just 140 pieces. It also features an open case back that exhibits the BVL 318 caliber, with “EDIZIONE LIMITATA” and “1884 – 2024” imprinted on the sapphire crystal but appearing as though Buonamassa Stigliani had personally written down that information on the watch just for this special occasion.

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic Sketch

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Sketch