It’s been three years since Partners Group (the same company that controls Breitling) and Georges Kern announced the revival of Universal Genève, the storied Swiss maison launched by Ulysse-Georges Perret and Numa-Émile Descombes in 1894. Yes, the same one that gave us the iconic Polerouter, Compax, Tri-Compax, et al.

 

Several tributes later — including a 2024 anniversary trio for the Polerouter in 2024 and a 2025 homage to the equally famous Nina Rindt Compax, both to tremendous acclaim — the day is finally upon us: the official relaunch of Universal Genève, celebrated as “Le Couturier de la Montre” or the “watch couturier,” ahead of the biggest watch fair on the calendar.

 

 

Georges Kern, head of Breitling and the man leading the charge, says, “Now, the sleeping beauty of watchmaking is awakened, opening a new chapter in the long history of one of watchmaking’s most beloved names.” Never one for small gestures, he is presenting not just one, but a whopping four collections at a go — the Polerouter, Compax, Cabriolet and a brand-new family called the Disco Mini. There is even a separate signature couture collection focused on high jewelry pieces and two very special signature pieces from the brand’s archives.

 

“The decision to launch all our collections at once was entirely deliberate,” Kern reveals. “It allows us to present a broad yet carefully curated offering, produced in limited quantities, and immediately showcase the full breadth and versatility of Universal Genève.

 

He adds, “Of course, there is a natural expectation to focus on icons such as the Polerouter. But doing so risks confining the brand to a single narrative. From the outset, we wanted to demonstrate that Universal Genève is far more than one model. It is a universe.

 

“Importantly, this is authentic to who we are. Historically, Universal Genève has always stood for creativity and diversity, so we have the legitimacy to express that from the very beginning.”

 

The Polerouter was famously designed by a 23-year-old Gérald Genta in 1954 to mark Scandinavian Airlines’ historic first flight between Los Angeles and Copenhagen over the North Pole, a big deal in those days. As history tells it, it was Genta’s first significant design, and it became Universal Genève’s most iconic watch, certainly the one that inspires the most fervor amongst fans. But it was not its sole calling card.

 

For its 2026 relaunch and revival, the brand is keen to highlight the breadth and depth of both its collections and technical capabilities. After all, Universal Genève was also a pioneer in micro-rotor automatic movements, introducing the Microtor Caliber 215 in 1958, one of the thinnest at the time. It followed that up in the 1960s with an even slimmer Caliber 1-66. Accordingly, almost all the new references (with the exception of quartz and high jewelry couture models) bear exhibition casebacks, displaying the new proprietary movements bearing a three-quarter-plate rose gold micro-rotor.

 

“With this relaunch, we are reestablishing Universal Genève as a distinctive voice in contemporary watchmaking, bringing together technical mastery, refined design, and cultural awareness,” says Kern. “True to the spirit of Le Couturier de la Montre, we draw on our heritage to create timepieces that unite vision, creativity, and craftsmanship, offering a fresh and credible perspective on modern horology.”

 

The Polerouter: A Signature Design for a Defining Era

Much has been written about Universal Genève’s vintage pieces online. Check out Revolution’s story on the glory days of Universal Genève and the allure of vintage Polerouters. As for the hotly anticipated new releases, we are pleased to report that the house doesn’t disappoint.

 

“Perhaps the most challenging task was to imagine how Gérald Genta himself might have evolved the design of the Polerouter today,” Kern admits. “You cannot simply make incremental changes. You have to leap forward several generations while remaining faithful to the DNA of such an iconic piece. That balance between respect and reinvention lies at the heart of what we have done.”

 

The relaunch sees the introduction of five references in two sizes for the core collection, all bearing the winning hallmarks of the Polerouter — the twisted lyre-shaped lugs, outer dial ring and, last but not least, the distinctive crosshair that divides the gently domed dial neatly into quarters. Clearly, the house has leaned heavily on its archives. As in the vintage models, and brought back in 2024’s tribute editions, the rehaut bears straight-line guilloché — only here, they are bolder and more distinct, fringed by a ribbed outer track. The applied baton indexes, however, are blockish and polished, adding contrast and shine, and echoing the aesthetics of early 1950s models in contrast to the slender indexes of the 2024 editions. The dials, too, bear dual finish like in the original models, alternately sunray satin and circular brushing in each quadrant.

 

Universal Genève is also bringing back the “Microtor only” dials of its early references for the relaunch. In 1958, the brand introduced the Microtor Caliber 215, where the automatic winding rotor is integrated into the movement rather than sitting above it, making the movement slimmer. Indeed, at the time, it was the world’s thinnest automatic movement, measuring just 4.1mm in height, a technical feat that Universal Genève wore with pride on its dials. For a while, many of its dials had the words “Automatic Microtor” emblazoned on it. A few select references, however, bore just the word “Microtor.” Among Polerouter fans, these quickly became known as the “Microtor only” dials and are relatively rare.

 

The new 2026 Polerouter continues the legacy with the Microtor inscription on the dial, as well as a brand-new micro-rotor movement, the UG-110. Measuring 3.8mm in height, the movement is self-winding and features a three-quarter unidirectional rotor in 22k rose gold mounted on ball bearings. It is beautifully finished with Côtes de Genève, polished bevels and alternating satin and polished finishes, and is showcased accordingly via the exhibition caseback. It beats at a respectable 28,800vph with a power reserve of 72 hours.

 

 

 

The watches look equally good on both alligator leather strap and bracelet, which are easily interchangeable. We are quite partial to the four-brick bracelet, which echoes the Gay Frères brick-link bracelets on some early Polerouter designs. The new bracelet, which comes with micro-adjustment, features brushed links.

 

 

The core collection offers the very wearable 37mm model, in stainless steel with black dial and in 18K rose gold with diamond-set bezel and white mother-of-pearl dial, as well as the 39mm model with date window at 3 o’clock, available in three iterations. The latter is no doubt practical, but lacks the symmetrical purity of its time-only sibling.

 

 

 

Hardstones have been very popular in the past year, so it’s no surprise that Universal Genève is also offering a capsule Polerouter Hardstone marquetry collection alongside for the relaunch. There are three time-only 39mm iterations — Bull’s eye paired with stainless steel, lapis lazuli with 18K rose gold and a very striking Tiger’s eye with 18K gold. The smaller 37mm version, meanwhile, is also offered in a capsule jewelry collection called Polerouter Camaïeu, which offers a tone-on-tone effect on the dial, framed by diamond-studded bezels.

 

 

 

Tech Specs: Polerouter Date Prêt-à-Porter 39mm

Movement Self-winding Caliber UG-110; 72-hour power reserve
Functions Hours, minutes, seconds and date
Case 39mm × 9.5mm; stainless steel or 18K rose gold; water resistant to 100m
Dial Blue, brown or black with dual finish (sunray satin and circular brushing)
Strap Black or midnight blue alligator leather with folding buckle, or 18K rose gold, four-brick bracelet with butterfly clasp
Price Upon request

 

Tech Specs: Polerouter Prêt-à-Porter 37mm

Movement Self-winding Caliber UG-110; 72-hour power reserve
Functions Hours, minutes and seconds
Case 37mm × 9.35mm; stainless steel or 18K rose gold set with 66 diamonds; water resistant to 100m
Dial Black with dual finish (sunray satin and circular brushing) or white mother-of-pearl
Strap Black or taupe alligator leather with pin buckle in matching metal
Price Upon request

 

Tech Specs: Polerouter Hardstone

Movement Self-winding Caliber UG-110; 72-hour power reserve
Functions Hours, minutes and seconds
Case 39mm × 9.5mm; stainless steel or 18K rose gold; water resistant to 100m
Dial Bull’s eye, lapis lazuli or Tiger’s eye stone marquetry
Strap Black or midnight blue alligator leather with folding buckle, or 18K rose gold, four-brick bracelet with butterfly clasp
Price Upon request

 

Tech Specs: Polerouter Camaïeu

Movement Self-winding Caliber UG-110; 72-hour power reserve
Functions Hours, minutes and seconds
Case 37mm × 9.35mm; stainless steel or 18K rose gold, both set with diamonds; water resistant to 100m
Dial Camaïeu aqua mint, Camaïeu toffee or Camaïeu berry with sunray satin finish
Strap Aqua mint, toffee or berry-colored alligator leather with stainless steel folding buckle or 18K rose gold pin buckle
Price Upon request

 

The New Compax: Precision with Panache

 

But long before the Polerouter in 1954, Universal Genève had already built its reputation with that most quintessential of complications, the chronograph. In 1936, the brand introduced the first-ever triple register chronograph called the Compax, It had three subdials, one each for running seconds, 30-minute and 12-hour counters, bestowing on its wearer the most comprehensive timekeeping functions on the wrist at the time.

 

Then in the mid-1960s, Nina Rindt, fashion icon and wife of F1 driver Jochen Rindt wore her Universal Genève Compax track-side, upgraded with a wide leather bund strap, and the rest, as they say, is equal parts watch and fashion history.

 

 

 

Like the Polerouter, the Compax stands as one of Universal Genève’s most iconic watches. In the run-up to the relaunch, the brand released a limited edition Tribute to Compax last year, using the manual wind Caliber 281 from the house’s famous 28x movement series that had powered many of its Compax and Tri-Compax watches. It also stayed true to the original design featuring the distinctive black and white panda dial, which has come to be known simply as “The Nina,” paired with a bespoke version of her signature cuff-style leather bund strap. Read more about the Tribute to Compax here.

 

This year, Rindt’s black and white watch returns as part of the core collection, alongside a fashion-forward capsule collection. Says Kern, “Nina Rindt’s chronograph wasn’t about status; it was about attitude. As one of the most collected watches and an iconic, timeless chronograph, it tells one of the Maison’s defining stories, combining innovation, style, and personality. This is what we’re reviving.”

 

 

In real terms, this translates into a faithful rendition of Rindt’s mid-century Compax with some modern updates. For instance, while the original was a relatively dainty 36.5mm with printed stick markers, tritium lume plots and a metal tachymeter with printed metal insert, the new Compax commands decidedly more wrist presence at 39.5mm, with applied indexes filled with Super-LumiNova and a ceramic bezel insert. While the original was manual winding, powered by the legendary Valjoux 72 movement no less, the 2026 iterations are automatic. They are powered by a brand-new UG-200 caliber featuring Universal Genève’s integrated Microtor, and column-wheel chronograph with vertical clutch, a nice nod to two of the brand’s hallmarks, the micro-rotor and the chronograph.

 

 

 

The core collection offers three references: the “Nina” with white dial and black subdials in steel; the reverse version with black dial and white subdials, otherwise known as the “Evil Nina” amongst collectors, also in steel; and an 18K gold edition with midnight blue dial and bezel. As with the Polerouter, there are easily interchangeable bracelet and alligator strap options, including a bund cuff option à la Nina, that lets you wear it two ways.

 

 

Perhaps as a nod to Rindt’s fashion background, there is also a Capsule Edition in pastel shades (sage, lavender and indigo) with lacquered dials that resemble linen weaves. And in keeping with the fashion theme, even the leather straps are treated to look like trendy denim.

 

 

Tech Specs: Compax Prêt-à-Porter

Movement Self-winding Caliber UG-200; 72-hour power reserve
Functions Hours, minutes, seconds; chronograph
Case 39.5mm × 12.45mm; stainless steel or 18K rose gold, both with ceramic bezel insert; water resistant to 100m
Dial White, black or midnight blue lacquered with contrasting chronograph counters; applied hour markers with Super-LumiNova coating
Strap Bund-style dark brown alligator leather with folding buckle, stainless steel five-row bracelet with butterfly clasp, or midnight blue alligator leather with pin buckle
Price Upon request

 

Tech Specs: Compax Capsule Edition

Movement Self-winding Caliber UG-200; 72-hour power reserve
Functions Hours, minutes, seconds; chronograph
Case 39.5mm × 12.45mm; stainless steel or 18K rose gold, both with sapphire bezel insert; water resistant to 100m
Dial Brushed indigo, sage green or dry lavender lacquered with linen pattern; applied hour markers with Super-LumiNova coating
Strap Brushed indigo, sage green or dry lavender alligator leather with folding buckle
Price Upon request

 

Cabriolet Chic: Sleek and Timeless

The Cabriolet completes Universal Genève’s trio of iconic collections. Born in the 1930s, it was one of the earliest reversible wristwatches, featuring an innovative case architecture with a hinged reversible case ensconced inside a larger frame. In the early versions, a screw at 6 o’clock lets the wearer pop out the case, flip the dial inward to protect the crystal, and then snap it back in place. Originally called “Ideo,” it was soon nicknamed “Cabriolet,” which means “convertible” in French, and so very apt. The name stuck, even though the family only saw a few iterations before it was retired a few years after.

 

 

It made a small comeback as the Golden Janus Cabriolet, a centennial edition when Universal Genève celebrated its 100th anniversary in 1994, in platinum and pink gold, with date and day/night indications, as well as a special series of 10 unique pieces with mother-of-pearl dials. The Cabriolet made another special appearance at Baselworld 2008, this time as the Microtor Cabriolet, powered by the UG-101, an in-house automatic movement with an off-center micro-rotor and 42 hours of power reserve. On the front, the dial shows hours, minutes, seconds and date, while the back shows two apertures that display the micro-rotor and escapement in the movement. At 32.5mm × 52mm long (including lugs) and 11.35mm thick, it was sizeable, to say the least.

 

Thankfully, the 2026 edition of the Cabriolet bears a considerably more contemporary sizing at 24.2mm × 45mm and 8mm thick. The reduction in case size will clearly win this edition fans; overall, the new dimensions align it to the present preference for modestly sized watches. Design-wise, the brand has leaned heavily on the Art Deco lineage of the original watch. Numerals, for instance, are rendered in Bifur, the distinctive Art Deco typeface of French painter and typeface designer A. M. Cassandre. Here, they are carefully embedded as lacquer inlay on the high gloss dials, framed by slim inlaid indexes.

 

 

There are four variations in the core collection — specifically one in stainless steel with a vibrant blue dial and three 18K rose gold examples, including one set with 44 diamonds. The most striking is probably the 18K rose gold iteration with black dial and a rather fetching nine-row gold bracelet that drapes around the wrist and which channels pure Art Deco sensibilities.

 

 

The case has been modified so that the back is gently concave, which lets it sit better on the wrist. Otherwise, the historic construction featuring a hinge mechanism for the reversible case remains, with a pusher integrated into the case at 6 o’clock. Both the inner case and outer case-frame bear brushed and polished finishes for a lovely visual contrast. The interior of the outer case frame is also decorated with an interloping Universal Genève logo that reiterates the Art Deco aesthetics of the watch.

 

The smaller sizes don’t mean downsize though, especially given that the new references are now powered by the manual winding UG-111, a 3mm-thick caliber with free-sprung balance beating at 3Hz and delivering a healthy power reserve of 72 hours. The movement is decorated with Côtes de Genève and showcased via the exhibition caseback in the four references in the core collection. It is worth noting that the caseback can be replaced with a customized back with engraving or miniature painting, should you desire to do so.

 

 

Alternatively, look to the Capsule collection, which pairs the Cabriolet in a velvet teal colorway and 18K rose gold case with hand-painted miniatures of Polish painter Tamara de Lempicka’s famous artworks. Collectors can choose from three paintings, all of which are instantly recognizable as icons of the Art Deco period: Portrait of Mrs Bush, Autoportrait (Tamara in a Green Bugatti) and Docteur Boucard. Only five pieces will be created for each, although the house has promised that more artworks from the artist’s archives will be released in future editions.

 

 

Tech Specs: Cabriolet Prêt-à-Porter

Movement Manual-winding Caliber UG-111; 72-hour power reserve
Functions Hours, minutes and small seconds
Case 24.2mm × 45mm × 8mm; stainless steel, 18K rose gold, or 18K rose gold set with 44 diamonds; water resistant to 100m
Dial Blue, red, white or black lacquered; Bifur numerals in lacquered inlays
Strap Stainless steel or 18K rose gold nine-row bracelet with butterfly clasp; optional rubis red or dark brown alligator leather with folding buckle
Price Upon request

 

Tech Specs: Cabriolet Capsule

Movement Manual-winding Caliber UG-111; 72-hour power reserve
Functions Hours, minutes and small seconds
Case 24.2mm × 45mm × 8mm; 18K red gold with caseback showcasing hand-painted miniatures of three of Tamara de Lempicka’s artworks; water resistant to 100m
Dial Velvet teal lacquered; Bifur numerals in lacquered inlays
Strap Velvet teal alligator leather with folding buckle, or 18K red gold nine-row bracelet
Price Upon request
Availability Limited edition of five pieces for each reference

 

The Dioramic, Disco Volante and Disco Mini: Breaking Design Codes

Two other Universal Genève icons that will resurface with the relaunch is the 1956 Monodactic, also known as the Dioramic, and its distinctive lugless uni-compax chronograph, which collectors called “Disco Volante,” Italian for “flying saucer,” after the smooth rounded profile.

 

The Dioramic signature edition draws directly from the original, retaining the signature oversized bezel with date window at 6 o’clock, pyramid indexes and alpha hands. That broad sweep of bezel has given rise to numerous interpretations, from guilloche to Florentine-style finishing and even engraved Eastern Arabic numerals. Here, it bears a sleek concentric fluting for eye-catching drama, accentuated by the fully polished twisted lugs alongside and the box sapphire crystal. While vintage models bear closed casebacks, the new edition has an open caseback that reveals the twin-barrel UG-110 Microtor caliber inside.

 

 

Likewise, the Disco Volante signature edition references early examples of Universal Genève uni-compax chronographs with the unusual lugless profile. Here, the case is stepped, with a polished inner bezel framed by concentric fluting on an outer ring, echoing a design motif on the Dioramic. The sapphire box crystal is deliberately pronounced, lending some height and enforcing the impression of a smooth rounded profile. There are two tone-on-tone subdials at 3 and 9 o’clock for chronograph minutes and running seconds, respectively, fringed by applied dot markers and a tachymeter scale. As with most of the new releases, it comes with a transparent caseback, revealing the UG-200 movement inside.

 

 

These fall under a special time-limited signature collection, alongside what Universal Genève calls the couture collection, which are essentially high jewelry pieces festooned with emeralds, sapphires, rubies and, of course, diamonds.

 

The final collection to be released in Universal Genève’s relaunch is a wholly new one designed for the ladies, although it, too, takes inspiration from the past. Named the Disco Mini, it brings together the house’s multiband watch concept from the 1950s and mid-century Disco Volante watches for a fun, versatile and decidedly glamorous line, sized down considerably to 28mm for more petite wrists and paired with a quartz movement.

 

 

There are two models in the core collection: in rose gold with a striking Clous de Paris engraved bezel and matching flexible vintage-style bracelet (offered in three sizes), and in white gold with pavé diamond-set bezel. The bracelets can be easily switched out for alligator straps or tweed straps sold separately.

 

Tech Specs: Dioramic Signature Edition

Movement Self-winding Caliber UG-110; 72-hour power reserve
Functions Hours, minutes and date
Case 37mm × 9.15mm; stainless or 18K rose gold; water resistant to 100m
Dial Blue or black
Strap Blue alligator leather with stainless steel folding buckle, or brown alligator leather with 18K rose gold pin buckle
Price Upon request
Availability Time-limited edition

 

Tech Specs: Disco Volante Signature Edition

Movement Self-winding Caliber UG-200; 72-hour power reserve
Functions Hours, minutes, small seconds; chronograph; date
Case 45mm × 12.78mm; stainless or 18K rose gold; water resistant to 100m
Dial Blue or rose gold colored with tone-on-tone chronograph counters
Strap Blue alligator leather with stainless steel folding buckle, or brown alligator leather with 18K rose gold pin buckle
Price Upon request
Availability Time-limited edition

 

Tech Specs: Disco Mini

Movement Quartz Caliber UG-300; seven-year battery life
Functions Hours and minutes
Case 28mm × 10.25mm; 18K rose gold, or 18K white gold set with 90 diamonds; water resistant to 30m
Dial White mother-of-pearl
Strap 18K rose gold or white gold bangle; optional dark brown or blueberry purple alligator leather (additional options available in colored leather and tweed)
Price Upon request