If there’s one thing Georges Kern has always done really well, it’s challenging expectations of what a watch brand can be. With his track record of redefining and reinvigorating brands under his stewardship, the Breitling CEO led the brand to being one of watchmaking’s most commercially and culturally relevant names in the market today. And now has his sights set on something new: a project called House of Brands.

George Kern, Breitling CEO

It’s not a budding conglomerate in the traditional sense, and it does not look to be an exercise in brand acquisition. At least – not yet. What we do know for sure is that the new chapter brings together three big names of watchmaking – Gallet, Universal Geneve and Breitling – under one umbrella; the mission is for the trio to benefit from a shared visionary strategy intended, ultimately, to promote and preserve watchmaking icons. Breitling itself refers to this horological menage a trois as a ‘portfolio’ – the opportunity to drive the Swiss watchmaking landscape with a forward-thinking and innovative approach to the business of making watches.

“First and foremost, House of Brands is a serious business strategy with clear ambitions,” Kern tells Revolution. “Strategically, it allows us to build a portfolio that covers the full luxury spectrum, from luxury entry-level to super-luxury, without overstretching any one brand. At the same time, it reflects how today’s collectors and consumers experience watchmaking. They move fluidly between categories and value heritage, design, and storytelling. By bringing together three distinctive brands, we offer greater diversity of choice across price points and lifestyles, meeting customers’ evolving interests and aspirations.”

Joining Breitling within this horological triptych are two newly revived names that represent different categories in watchmaking. At one end of the spectrum is Universal Genève, which has been, since the 1960s, known as “Le Couturier de la Montre” (the tailor of watchmaking) while on the other hand, Gallet, a storied watchmaking marque with a legacy of precision timekeeping for early long-distance travel, exploration, and adventure, sits at what is often referred to as an ‘accessible entry point’ – it’s more affordable. In terms of positioning, Breitling sits between the two, explains Kern: “Breitling remains the core brand and cornerstone of House of Brands, embodying a modern retro spirit that is approachable and versatile. Gallet complements the offering in the luxury entry-level segment with tastefully distinct, robust and accessible watches inspired by 200 years of precision timekeeping for explorers, aviators and pioneers. Gallet carries this “wanderlust” spirit and rough outdoor style. Designed for modern adventurers with a driven spirit and refined taste, Gallet will be integrated into Breitling boutiques while maintaining its own identity, brand environment and customer focus. Gallet watches will be produced in the same facilities as Breitling, benefiting from shared expertise while preserving its distinct heritage.”

Together, they form a trio that’s shaping into one of the most intriguing experiments in contemporary Swiss watchmaking ― part revival, part renaissance, all rooted in the belief that authenticity still matters.

More than a group

The phrase “house of brands” inevitably draws comparison to the luxury conglomerates that dominate the industry. But House of Brands is, as of this moment, a deliberately small ecosystem, one built around collaboration and with three brands whose positioning and DNA are distinct and will remain so.

Kern is clear that each brand will maintain its own DNA and design language.

“Authenticity is not about freezing a brand in time, it’s about understanding its history, design language, values, and its cultural role, and then imagining how this will evolve the brand,” says Kern. “The House of Brands allows us to do exactly that. Authenticity comes from respecting the legacy of each brand while giving it the creative freedom to be relevant to a new generation, to new audiences. It is not about standardizing. It is about amplifying what makes each brand unique. That is why Universal Genève and Gallet will each stand as unique brands, with their own distinctive identity and design language that contribute to a larger vision.”

Breitling Boutique

Universal Genève: The Couturier De La Montre comes home

Few names command the reverence that Universal Genève does. Founded in 1894, it was long known as Le Couturier de la Montre. Its watches epitomised mid-century elegance and adorned wrists from pilots to presidents. After some years of silence, Universal Genève’s story is finally being retold. Its acquisition by Breitling and its group of investors Partners Group and CVC Capital Partners in 2023 marked the return of a dormant marque and the restoration of a legend.

“When we took over Universal Genève, we inherited a legendary brand with a strong heritage, connected to emotions, and a passionate collector base. Our first step was to return to its roots and understand its DNA. We studied the original design language of iconic pieces like the Polerouter, the Compax, and the Cabriolet and asked ourselves what Universal would look like today if it had never stopped evolving. This is not about reissuing the past. It is about bringing a historic maison back to life. We also examined where Universal Genève fits in today’s high-end luxury market. Objectively, there are brands that are either extremely conservative or highly extravagant. Universal will sit between these two worlds: sophisticated, elegant, and contemporary, never too traditional, never ostentatious. It will speak naturally to both men and women. There is a real opportunity to carve a new space in the market, both in terms of aesthetics and brand expression, between these two poles.” Following on from the Polerouter SAS tribute watches released in November 2024, the latest expression of this horological reincarnation is the Tribute to ‘the Nina’ Compax, in honour of Formula One style icon Nina Rindt, the Finnish model known both for her elegance as well as her pitstop presence, timing the laps of her husband, champion driver Jochen Rindt. When she engineered her Compax with a leather cuff, replacing the standard-issue strap, it made her (and the watch) iconic.

More than half a century later, Nina Rindt ― now in her eighties ― joined Universal Genève to revisit that story. For the brand, preparing its long-awaited return in 2026, this was a chance to show what “Le Couturier de la Montre,” the watch couturier, would mean in the 21st century: bridging watchmaking with artisanal craft, history with reinvention. The ‘Nina’ Compax will be released in 18k white and red gold, an ultra-exclusive release of two sets of three Tribute to Compax watches, with handcrafted bund straps created by the celebrated Japanese leather artisan Satoru Hosoi.

Universal Genève Tribute to Compax

“For us, the Tribute to Compax is a statement of where we’re going: refined luxury shaped with the same meticulous handwork that has always defined UG,” says managing director, Gregory Bruttin. “These six individually crafted watches reflect the direction we set for the brand when we acquired it in 2023,” adds Kern. “Nina Rindt’s chronograph is one of Universal Genève’s defining stories. Revisiting it was never a question; it was always part of our vision for the brand’s return.”

Universal Genève restored archival Caliber 281 movements from the Compax’s era: manual-winding, column-wheel chronographs of 28.5 mm diameter and 7.10 mm thickness. The watches feature Grand Feu enamel dials with chronograph counters.

Precision Rebirth: Gallet

Established in 1826 in La Chaux-de-Fonds by Julien Gallet, Gallet’s name was once synonymous with instrument-grade precision. Its Multichron and Flying Officer chronographs served soldiers, scientists, and pilots alike tools before they were collectibles. Among its most famous models was the MultiChron Clamshell, one of the first waterproof chronographs, and trusted companions of those who answer the call of exploration. Under Kern’s guidance, Gallet’s rebirth will likely take a more accessible, functional form. Positioned below Breitling, it promises to capture the same utilitarian ethos that defined its heritage durable, reliable, and purpose-built, but refined for the modern collector’s taste and lifestyle.

A trio of Gallet Multichron Clamshell watches from around 1938; the world’s first water-resistant wrist chronograph

Gallet Flying Officer from 1939

“With Gallet, we’re addressing the luxury entry-level segment, which has been abandoned by many watch brands. Gallet is a key piece of the puzzle, allowing us to re-enter a price segment that Breitling and many competitors have moved away from in recent years,” says Kern. “We see significant potential in the luxury watch entry-level segment, particularly for a strong, historically significant, and distinctive brand like Gallet. With Gallet, we can offer customers iconic designs and high-quality watches at an attractive price point. The common belief that only the high-end segment is thriving is not accurate—there are many successful brands in the “accessible luxury” space, including in the watch industry.”

A community, a powerhouse, an alliance and perhaps a future conglomerate. In an industry where reinvention catches attention, House of Brands is looking beyond the buzz at reaffirming conversations between history and innovation.

Tech Specs: Universal Genève Tribute to Compax

Movement: Caliber Manual, original restored Universal Genève 281. Power reserve: approx. 36 hours
Case: 18k white or 18k red gold; 36 millimeters Glass cambered sapphire, glareproofed both sides
Caseback: Polished 18k white gold or 18k red gold
Bezel: Aluminum, fixed with tachymeter
Dial: Set 1 – White, black, brown enamel, Set 2 – black, white, blue enamel
Strap: Calfskin leather strap by Satoru Hoso in brown, taupe and black, or olive and black