The Audemars Piguet 2026 Releases Makes Complexity User-Friendly, And Celebrates the Skeleton
Editorial
The Audemars Piguet 2026 Releases Makes Complexity User-Friendly, And Celebrates the Skeleton
Audemars Piguet’s 2026 novelties read like a manifesto for the next 150 years and of course the brand was never going to let a century and a half of watchmaking go by without a monumental display of horological dominance. And thank goodness for that – because when you have taken 150 years of brilliance on a round-the-world tour courtesy of its House of Wonders exhibit, reminding your audience that audacious highlights continue to be part of the story is both exciting and welcome.
But this isn’t just about unleashing a wave of watches into the stratosphere to reassert creds – this feels very much about curation and a wave of strategic creativity.
The commitment to complications engineered around real human use – as expressed in Audemars Piguet’s 150 Heritage Pocket Watch, a towering masterpiece of functional complexity – is explored further with new pieces unveiled ahead of Watches and Wonders – a smart strategy to grab the wandering attention of collectors (and watch editors) ahead of the annual tidal wave of releases just around the corner in April.
Taken together, these novelties reveal a brand that continues to be skilled at being both expressive and exacting at the same time. Malachite introduces natural unpredictability into one of watchmaking’s most controlled designs. Open working is treated not merely as spectacle but as a platform for craftsmanship. And the perpetual calendar is redesigned for contemporary collectors who want to wear their complications, not just admire them.
Opening up: Royal Oak Jumbo Extra-Thin Openworked and Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked
The brand continues its flair for making familiar silhouettes feel fresh, by changing what sits on the surface and giving what lies beneath a deserved centre-stage billing.
Two new ‘tone on tone’ open-worked Royal Oak watches reveal their inner workings – a 39 mm Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Open worked in titanium and bulk metallic glass (BMG), and a 37 mm Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Open worked entirely forged in 18-carat yellow gold.
First discovered in the 1960s, BMGs are metallic alloys that, when rapidly cooled, take on properties similar to glass, such as high strength and an amorphous structure. Composed of over 50% palladium, Audemars Piguet’s proprietary BMG is ultra-resistant to the vagaries of daily use – the bezel, caseback and bracelet studs are crafted from this precious material and mirror polished that contrast with Royal Oak’s case, crown and bracelet in titanium – highlighting the model’s complex architecture as well as its incredibly complicated heart.
Aesthetically, the movement’s open-working is more than just horological exhibitionism. Through sapphire crystal on the dial and caseback, the mechanical logic of the calibres can be fully admired. The 39 mm Jumbo houses the rhodium-toned Calibre 7127 – blackened hour markers and hands filled with luminescent material deliver legibility against the complexity of the movement; similarly the yellow gold edition features silver-grey hour markers that stand out against the patented calibre 3132, a patented movement featuring the double balance wheel mechanism released by the manufacture in 2016.
Tech Specs: Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked 39 mm
Movement Self-winding Calibre 7124, total diameter 29.6 mm, total thickness 2.7 mm, power reserve 57 hours
Functions Hours and minutes.
Case Titanium case, BMG (Bulk Metallic Glass) bezel and caseback, glareproofed sapphire crystal and caseback, titanium screw-locked crown, water-resistant to 50 m, case thickness: 8.1 mm
Dial Rhodium-toned openworked dial, blackened 18-carat white gold rectangle hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent material, silver-grey toned inner bezel
Strap Titanium integrated bracelet with BMG studs, titanium three-blade folding clasp
Tech Specs: Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked 37mm
Movement Self-winding Calibre 3132, total diameter 26.6 mm, total thickness 4.4 mm, power reserve 45 hours
Functions Hours, minutes and centre seconds
Case 18-carat yellow gold case, glareproofed sapphire crystal and caseback, 18-carat yellow gold screw-locked crown, water-resistant to 50 m, case thickness: 10 mm
Dial Yellow gold-toned open-worked dial, silver-grey toned rectangle 18-carat pink gold hour-markers and 18-carat white gold Royal Oak hands with luminescent material, yellow gold-toned inner bezel
Strap 18-carat yellow gold bracelet with three-blade AP folding clasp
Perpetual story: Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar Openworked and Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar Openworked
The open working story continues with another ‘big reveal’ in this category – a brand new in-house self-winding perpetual calendar, Calibre 7139, finds a new home, debuting in two 41mm models – the Code 11.59 and a Royal Oak in titanium and BMG (Bulk Metallic Glass). The Code 11.59 Self-winding Perpetual Calendar Open worked 41 mm features an 18-carat white gold bezel and caseback with a black ceramic case middle. A sapphire dial reveals dark and light grey components, with smoked subdials at 3, 9, and 12 o’clock, while a black aventurine moon-phase backdrop gives the complication a night-sky theatre.
The Royal Oak in 41 mm unites titanium with Bulk Metallic Glass (BMG) notable for its reflective sheen and high resistance to wear and tear.
Perpetual calendars are, by nature, feats of mechanical memory. They account for the uneven length of months and leap years, and, in theory, only need correcting in the year 2100 to remain aligned with the Gregorian calendar, assuming the watch stays fully wound. Yet the user experience has often been, frankly, antiquated: recessed pushers, fiddly tools, and the ever-present fear of “doing it wrong”.
Calibre 7139 tackles that anxiety with the all-in-one crown correction system, which was introduced last year as part of Audemars Piguet’s anniversary celebrations. Instead of scattered correctors, the crown manages winding, time-setting, and all calendar indications via four positions, including a dedicated correction setting, allowing adjustments without tools and minimising the risk of damage. Beneath the poetry of syncing with the “universe’s cyclic rhythms” lies a perpetual calendar you might actually enjoy living with. The movement maintains a notably slim 4.1 mm profile using a layered construction that keeps the architecture efficient and beats at 4 Hz, with a minimum 55-hour power reserve.
“Calibre 7139 embodies Audemars Piguet’s firm belief that tradition and innovation must progress hand in hand. Our R&D and complications teams worked closely with our traditional atelier to give life to a perpetual calendar that simplifies corrections and enhances user experience, all while perpetuating the historical art of open working,” said Lucas Raggi, Chief Industrial Officer, Audemars Piguet.
Tech Specs: Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar Openworked 41 mm
Movement Selfwinding Calibre 7139, total diameter 29.6 mm, total thickness 4.1 mm, power reserve 55 hours
Functions Perpetual calendar with week indication, day, date, astronomical moon, month, leap year, hours and minutes
Case 18-carat white gold bezel, black ceramic case middle, double curved glareproofed sapphire crystal, 18-carat white gold and glareproofed sapphire caseback, black ceramic and 18-carat white gold crown, water-resistant to 30 m, case thickness: 10.6 mm
Dial Sapphire dial, transparent subdials with smoked external zones at 3, 9 and 12 o’clock, rhodium-toned pink gold hour-markers, white gold hands with luminescent material, black inner bezel
Strap Black square-scale alligator strap with AP folding clasp
Tech Specs: Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar Openworked 41 mm
Movement Selfwinding Calibre 7139, total diameter 29.6 mm. total thickness 4.1 mm, power reserve 55 hours
Functions Perpetual calendar with week indication, day, date, astronomical moon, month, leap year, hours and minutes
Case Titanium case, BMG (Bulk Metallic Glass) bezel, glareproofed sapphire crystal, BMG and glareproofed sapphire caseback, titanium crown, water-resistant to 50 m, case thickness: 9.5 mm
Dial Sapphire dial, transparent subdial at 12 o’clock, subdials at 3 and 9 o’clock with lightly smoked, see-through centres and smoked external zones, pink gold hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent material, black inner bezel
Strap Titanium bracelet with BMG (Bulk Metallic Glass) studs and titanium AP folding clasp.
Blue mood: Royal Oak Self-Winding Perpetual Calendar
The manufacture’s mastery in the perpetual calendar sphere takes another turn courtesy of a new Royal Oak Self-winding Perpetual Calendar in 41 mm. This time the timepiece is rendered entirely in ceramic, pairing AP’s signature ‘Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50’ hue rooted in the brand’s history with cutting-edge science. The ceramic case and bracelet amplify the Royal Oak’s alternating polished and satin-brushed finishing, making the colour deepen and brighten with every change of angle. Inside is Calibre 7138, bringing the same all-in-one crown adjustment philosophy to the perpetual calendar experience, again prioritising ease, speed, and confidence in use. The dial remains recognisably Royal Oak, with a blue Grande Tapisserie base and blue counters, framed by white-gold markers and hands, but the real triumph is the totality: colour, material, and complication aligned in a single, elegant statement.
Tech Specs: Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Selfwinding 41 mm
Movement Selfwinding Calibre 7138, total diameter 29.6 mm, total thickness 4.1 mm, power reserve 55 hours
Functions Perpetual calendar with week indication, day, date, astronomical moon, month, leap year, hours and minutes
Case “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” ceramic case, glareproofed sapphire crystal, titanium and glareproofed sapphire caseback, water resistant to 50 m
Dial Blue Grande Tapisserie dial, blue counters, 18-carat white gold hour markers, 18-carat white gold Royal Oak hands with luminescent material, blue inner bezel
Strap “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” ceramic bracelet with AP folding clasp
Dialling in: Royal Oak Self-Winding 37mm and 41mm
Two Royal Oak Self-winding models in 18-carat yellow gold, sized at 37 mm and 41 mm, arrive with polished malachite dials with its highly organic patterning formed during crystallisation, with hue variations shaped by copper content, meaning no two dials can ever be replicated. In a world of industrially perfect gradients, malachite offers a humble one-of-a-kind nod to rarity.
The pairing with yellow gold is confident – the Royal Oak’s crisp architectural geometry frames the mineral’s natural allure. Applied hour markers and hands in yellow gold, with luminescent coating, keep the watch beautifully legible. Underneath, the two sizes are powered by different calibres, 5909 for the 37 mm and 4309 for the 41 mm, each offering contemporary performance and the reassuring competence you want in a daily-wear Royal Oak, even when the dial is decidedly not “daily”. These models follow the turquoise-stone-dial variants introduced in 2023, and they extend the same logic: continue the Royal Oak’s iconic legacy while letting the materials lend their voice to this new chapter of stone.
Tech Specs: Royal Oak Selfwinding
Movement 41 mm Selfwinding Calibre 4309, 32 mm diameter, 4.9mm thick, minimum power reserve 70 hours or 37 mm Selfwinding Calibre 5909, 26.2 mm diameter, 3.9mm thick, 60 hours power reserve
Functions Hours, minutes and centre seconds
Case 18-carat yellow gold case, double glareproofed sapphire crystal and caseback, water resistant to 50 m
Dial Polished malachite dial, 18-carat yellow gold hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent material, yellow gold-toned inner bezel
Strap 18-carat yellow gold bracelet with AP folding clasp
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