The new Schwarz Etienne 1902 GMT Silver and Blue models embody elegant understatement – a reflection of where Schwarz Etienne stands today as one of Switzerland’s most resolute independents.

Founded in 1902 in La Chaux-de-Fonds, the brand has always been something of an insider’s choice, respected by those who understand and appreciate the value of complete in-house production. In recent years, under CEO Florian Brossard, Schwarz Etienne has refined its voice, developing the 1902 collection as a bridge between artisanal craft and mechanical prowess. The new GMT marks the next step in that evolution: a complication for travellers and dreamers alike.

The 1902 GMT Silver is powered by the ASE 320.00 caliber, a micro-rotor movement entirely conceived and hand-assembled within the manufacture’s walls, a display of mastery that affirms Schwarz Etienne as one of few that still control every aspect of production. The movement’s impressive 86-hour power reserve, 3Hz frequency, and stop-seconds mechanism combine to deliver robustness and precision, but it’s the finishing that really commands admiration. Six bridges feature polished angles and concave bevels; the ratchet wheel displays a hand-polished drop and sunray pattern; and the chevron motif on the micro-rotor pays homage to the pine forests that surround La Chaux-de-Fonds.

View from the caseback, the ASE 320.00 caliber

On the wrist, the 39mm Grade 5 titanium case is light and ergonomically perfect. The brushed and polished surfaces and crown, engraved with the Schwarz Etienne monogram, and slightly domed sapphire crystal render the design elegant, and assert its impeccable credentials within fine watchmaking.

The dial commands attention. In silver, it evokes a soft, cool, and precise feeling, while numerals in rich blue alternate with polished cabochons, the 24-hour GMT track encircling a grained centre. The GMT hand, polished and PVD-treated in blue, completes a full 24-hour rotation, marking a second time zone. Meanwhile the Lancine-style hands, part-polished and part-sandblasted, nod to the maison’s heritage, complemented by a small seconds counter at six o’clock. There’s something quite Swiss about this dial, it feels neat, orderly yet also somehow a bit whimsical.

The 24-hour GMT track encircling a grained centre

It’s easy to view the 1902 GMT simply as a functional traveller’s watch, but it’s more than that. It represents an evolution in Schwarz Etienne’s design language. This is a watch for the thoughtful collector, the one who seeks substance beneath the surface and values a movement not just for its performance, but for the soul it conveys.

In a landscape increasingly crowded with noise and novelty, Schwarz Etienne’s confident, understated mastery feels like a luxury in itself. The 1902 GMT Silver stands as both tribute and testament: to 120 years of independence, and to the enduring beauty of doing things properly, from start to finish.

Alongside the original silver variant, Schwarz Etienne has also just introduced a striking blue-dial edition of the 1902 GMT. This new reference brings a cooler, more contemporary character to the collection, distinguished by its deep blue hue, velvety grained centre, and a circular satin-finished GMT hour ring that echoes the model’s layered play of textures. Here, the GMT hand is rendered in crisp white lacquer, enhancing contrast and legibility, while the small seconds at 6 o’clock retains its finely executed azurage. Paired with a matching blue alligator strap, the new blue 1902 GMT offers a more modern, sport-leaning expression of the Manufacture’s elegant travel watch.

Schwarz Etienne 1902 GMT Blue

Tech Specs: 1902 GMT Silver or Blue

Movement: Manufacture automatic with micro-rotor ASE 320.00, stop-seconds, 201 components, 31 jewels. Power reserve: 86 hours
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds at 6 o’clock, central GMT
Case: 39mm Grade 5 titanium, 10.9mm thick, water-resistant to 50m
Dial: Sandblasted rhodium mainplate with polished bevels; Circular and concentric Côtes de Genève on bridges; Chevron-patterned micro-rotor
• For Silver: Blue Arabic numerals, cabochons and silver Lancine-style hands; Ratchet with sunray finish and polished drop
• For Blue: Silver Lancine-style hour, minute hands and GMT hand; Ratchet with diamond drop and soleillage
Strap: Blue alligator with black rubber lining, Grade 5 titanium pin buckle with Schwarz Etienne logo