Seiko has been gradually reintroducing the King Seiko lineup in recent years with vintage-inspired reissues. Today, however, the watchmaker unveils a model that pays homage to the 1970s VANAC while bringing an entirely new design, marking a milestone in the lineup’s modern revival. With a new case, dial, and bracelet, the King Seiko VANAC also comes with a new movement offering a three-day power reserve.

King Seiko’s VANAC fun and funky outfit

The original VANAC was a bold and playful watch when it debuted in the 1970s, known for its striking case, vibrant dial, and multi-faceted crystal. Today, it returns with a more refined approach, enhancing its versatility while retaining its distinctive character. The new King Seiko VANAC remains a capable timepiece, carrying over key elements like the faceted case, integrated bracelet, and eye-catching dial. However, it now comes with a domed crystal instead of a faceted one, giving it a sleeker and more elegant profile.

Original VANAC case designs

Without a doubt, the standout aspect of the new King Seiko VANAC is its case and bracelet design. While integrated bracelet watches are now abundant, the VANAC remains compelling for good reason. Its design is refreshingly original — it doesn’t replicate a past VANAC, nor does it attempt to emulate a Gerald Genta look-alike. As a result, it feels fresh despite incorporating familiar elements. This is especially evident in the subtle details of the bracelet’s center links.

And if the design details go unnoticed, one aspect of the new VANAC certainly will not: the fit and finish. The case is highly polished, and with its wide, flat facets, it creates a mirror-like effect. This level of finishing is rarely seen in Swiss competitors at this price point of around USD 3,000. The same attention to detail extends to the bracelet, where the links combine brushed and polished surfaces, with polished bevels adding an extra touch of refinement.

Moving on from the case to the dial, the design is quite nuanced and packed with interesting details. The dial is divided into three concentric circles, with the hour markers positioned within a central ring. The innermost and outermost circles feature horizontal striping with alternating wide and thin lines, while the central ring has radial stripes that double as minute markers. 

Adding to the complexity, two thin metallic frames encircle the central ring — one along the inner edge and the other along the outer edge. The outer frame, in particular, has a sharp, angular design that seems to be continuing the profile of the hour markers which have a tip pointing out. Another matching detail is the V-shaped counterweight of the seconds hand, which represents the VANAC and echoes the 12 o’clock marker, also subtly shaped like a letter V.

Five dials have been announced for the debut of the new VANAC. The blue, purple, and silver dials are regular production models available at both retailers and boutiques, while the ice blue is a boutique-exclusive edition, and the gold is a limited edition.

Caliber 8L35 updated

Inside the watch is not the typical 8L35 found in high-end Seiko models but a new version. The older 8L35 was based on the retired Grand Seiko 9S55, which had a 50-hour power reserve. 

The updated 8L35, however, appears to be based on the current 9S65 movement, extending the power reserve to 72 hours. Another similarity between the new 8L35 and the Grand Seiko 9S65 is the winding mechanism – both use a reverser wheel system, whereas the older 8L35 and the 9S55 relied on the Magic Lever.

The combination of the up-to-date 8L35 movement and the high-quality case and bracelet finishing helps explain the USD 3,300 price tag, positioning it at the lower end of Grand Seiko’s mechanical watch range.

Tech Specs: Seiko King Seiko VANAC

References: SLA083/SLA085/SLA087/SLA089/SLA091
Movement: Self-winding Caliber 8L45; automatic; 72-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours and minutes; central seconds; date
Case: 41mm × 14.3mm; stainless steel; water-resistant to 100m
Dial: Purple/navy/silver/gold/ice blue
Strap: Stainless steel bracelet
Availability: From July 2025 at Seiko boutiques and retailers, with the SLA091 (light blue) as a boutique exclusive
Limited edition: 700 pieces for the SLA089 (gold)
Price: € 3,400