This summer, Jaeger-LeCoultre will unveil the fourth capsule of “The Collectibles” at its Place Vendôme boutique in Paris. This launch commemorates the 100th anniversary of the Duoplan’s invention in 1925, featuring a curated selection of 10 exceptional timepieces. These range from diamond-set Art Deco cocktail watches to secret Tubogas bracelets, including a rare ‘Tuile’ with a dial set at 90 degrees, each piece embodying the history of the Duoplan movement.

The legacy of the Duoplan

The Duoplan was invented to solve a perennial challenge in horology, i.e. how to miniaturise a movement without compromising durability or precision. Its two-level construction allowed larger components to be housed within a compact space, resulting in a new generation of small but high-performance movements, which in turn revolutionised the design of women’s watches.

The four calibers in the Duoplan family: (from left) Cal. 101, Cal. 104, Cal. 403, and Cal. 409, the largest of the Duoplan calibers, measuring 11’’’ (23 x 10.5 x 4 mm)

Movement specifications of the four Duoplan calibers. (Image: The Blomman Watch Report)

Calibre 101 “Riviere” features 70 diamonds and 63 sapphires set on an 18K white gold bracelet (1962)

By 1929, LeCoultre had introduced Calibre 101, the world’s smallest mechanical movement and the oldest caliber still in production today. It was also during this time where watches weren’t just time-telling tools anymore, but became personal statements and jewellery.

A tribute in Paris

It’s fitting that this latest capsule debuts in Paris, home of Edmond Jaeger, whose partnership with Jacques-David LeCoultre led to the founding of Jaeger-LeCoultre in 1937. Long before the official merger, the two visionaries were already shaping a new vision for horology. The 1934 catalogue of Spécialités Horlogères even featured Duoplan and Reverso models under a shared banner, a foreshadowing of the iconic Maison they would formally become.

Duoplan “Tubogas” Coulissante is a secret watch crafted in 18K yellow gold and equipped with the cal. 403 (1950)

Among the highlights of this year’s capsule: a c.1950 Duoplan Tubogas secret watch in bold yellow gold, a 1941 Chaine model with broad golden links, and a stunning 1960 high jewellery secret watch in white gold, diamonds, and sapphires — all equipped with the Calibre 101. There’s also a 1939 Duoplan Tuile with a horizontally-set rectangular case, and the utilitarian Duoplan Driver from the 1930s, designed so wearers could read the time without lifting their hands from the steering wheel.

Each piece in The Collectibles is authenticated and meticulously restored by Jaeger-LeCoultre’s in-house restoration workshop, where 10 specialist watchmakers bring heritage timepieces back to life. Original blueprints and even vintage spare parts are referenced. Though where parts no longer exist, components are recreated using original tools, swages, or stamps, preserving the DNA of each watch.

Duoplan “Tuile” sports a rectangular steel case that houses the cal. 403 (1939)

To complete the collector’s experience, each timepiece comes with an extract from the Jaeger-LeCoultre archives, a complimentary copy of The Collectibles coffee-table book, and a newly matched leather strap (unless the original bracelet remains). Where available, original boxes, papers, and straps are included.

The Collectibles: Fourth Capsule Collection

Jaeger-LeCoultre Boutique, 7 Place Vendôme, Paris
June 13 – July 27, 2025
Admission is free, with registration available online and by appointment at: bit.ly/BoutiqueAppointmentVendome