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Louis Erard is one of the most exciting brands in its price point at the moment. In large part, this excitement is because of Louis Erard’s smart approach to collaboration, and the latest example is this 178-piece edition with Label Noir.
Label Noir, founded in 2011, is a watch customising company known for their blacked-out designs and audacious habit of retrofitting Rolex watches with tourbillons. So it should come as no surprise that their work with Louis Erard resulted in a black watch. Using the brand’s well-known regulator model as a base, this watch explores the concept of depth. Specifically, the depths of blackness, which is treated in different ways, from the glossy black hour dial, which stands out against the matte brushed dial. The steel case is treated in a similar manner, and the black textile strap tops off the all-black aesthetic.
Black watches can often come across as too edgy, too boring or both. This guy avoids those pitfalls, thanks in no small part to the judicious use of vibrant lime green highlights on the seconds hands, key dial markings, the Label Noir branding and the strap stitching. It adds a dash of electro-pop and keeps the mood from being too dour. It’s fun, which is exactly what I’ve come to expect from Louis Erard. I will say that the collab branding on the dial detracts somewhat from the purity of the design. I would have preferred Louis Erard on the dial only, but I may be underestimating the cachet of the Label Noir name. Honestly, this is a minor concern, and I suspect one I’d get over pretty quickly if I was looking down at this vividly stealthy regulator on a regular basis.
Movement: Sellita SW266-1 calibre, automatic, 38 hours of power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds
Case: 42mm, sandblasted stainless steel with black PVD coating
Dial: Black, regulator style
Strap: Black nylon with green stitching
Price and availability: CHF 3500, limited to 178 pieces