Laurent Ferrier
Introducing the Laurent Ferrier Classic Micro-Rotor & Classic Origin with Breguet Numerals for Revolution & The Rake
The second reason independent watches are hotter than ever is that in a market where all the most entrenched populist models have now become trophies for rappers, movie stars and hedge funders, a Kari Voutilainen, an MB&F or a Moser demonstrates that your watch knowledge is deep and sets you apart from the culturally homogenous sheep. These two factors combined have created powerfully heated avarice for all things independent.
Deep inside Laurent Ferrier’s imagination, inchoate but present when he made his first pocket watch in 1968 and enriching itself to full maturity over his 37 years at Patek Philippe, was a singular voice of immeasurable horological grace. When he did unveil this vision to the world with the launch of his eponymous brand in 2009, the watch that he created, the Galet Classic Tourbillon Double Spiral, triggered an incredible flood of what Proust would call “involuntary memories.” Since then, he has achieved this over and over again with each successive launch, from the Classic Micro-Rotor, to his Traveler and Annual Calendar, and most recently with his sublime Classic Origin. I would say, more than any other independent brand, Ferrier reconnected us all with the love for classical watchmaking — a remembrance of things past, that we had almost forgotten. Laurent Ferrier is our bridge between the past and the present. His watches are the living, beating repositories of horology’s greatest collective memories. So artfully did he wield nuanced details inspired by 19th and mid-20th century Swiss watchmaking that his vision felt like it had already existed for a century or more, already permanently inscribed into the lexicon of horology’s great canon.
Ferrier explains, “I grew up around watchmaking so there was always a sense of predestination that I would work in watches. I imagine, in the same way that it was for my son, Christian. My father was a specialist in grand complications, and I was infected by his passion in particular early on. He would tell me stories of how timekeeping was interlinked with the story of human history. That the marine chronometer was the instrument which allowed man to safely navigate the seas.” But at an early age, Ferrier was also swept up by a passion for auto racing, which he feels added to his interest in watchmaking in a unique way.
For Ferrier, the mental discipline, the rigor of character, the focus necessary to be a great driver was similar to his approach to watchmaking. He says, “In watches, every single element makes a critical difference in the outcome. This is something that I have tried to apply to Laurent Ferrier watches. Ours is a design language that is restrained, some might even say minimalist, but if you look at the details, the color density of the font for each marker, the shape of the crown, the compound curve of the sapphire crystal, every element has been painstakingly considered over and over until we thought it was perfect.”
The 2021 Laurent Ferrier Classic Origin for Revolution & The Rake
Says Laurent Ferrier, “The idea was to remain in the theme of a sector-style dial but to add to it these elements of applied Breguet numerals which, to me, results in one of the beautiful dials we’ve worked on. The three numerals, 12, 3 and 9, are all created from wire erosion on white gold before they are perfectly decorated then treated with a ruthenium coating. These are delicately applied to a dial that features a stunning sunray effect. The lines radiating from the middle of the dial create a stunning, energetic luminous effect, which is again contrasted by the dark black sector ring. This ring features an all-new original design inspired by the ring found in our project last year, but with much bolder and far longer attenuated arms that act as markers for the other indexes. This is a style of dial I find very charming but is perhaps a touch more exuberant than usual for us. But this is precisely why it works as a limited edition between Laurent Ferrier and Revolution. To make the watches even more distinct, both the manual wind and micro-rotor movements feature a frosted yellow gold finish with contrasting high-polished bevels. This is the first time we’ve ever used this finish on a micro-rotor movement and I think the result is sublime.”
Both of the watches use the Classic Origin case in stainless steel. The Classic Origin Micro-Rotor features a salmon or more accurately “rose champagne” dial while the Classic Origin, which is driven by a manually wound movement, features what I call a “brut champagne” dial. We worked relentlessly with Ferrier and his brilliant head of production Amandine Perrier to achieve precisely the tone we wanted. Says Ferrier, “These colors are very delicate with a softness and subtlety that I find very appealing.” As mentioned by Ferrier, both movements feature a micro sandblasted finish contrasted by hand beveled angles.
The 2021 Laurent Ferrier Classic Micro-Rotor for Revolution & The Rake
Says Christian Ferrier with a smile, “Well, of course my father would say simple, but in fact the movement we arrived at was anything but. I’ve always liked that the tourbillon model and the Micro-Rotor model appear identical from the front of the watch. This was always my father’s philosophy that the complexity and technical value of your watch should be something you keep for yourself. However, we wanted owners of the automatic watch to also be able to turn their watch over and feel a similar emotion that owners of our tourbillon feel.”
But there would be one more element to Ferrier’s automatic caliber FBN 229.01 that would be obscured from the naked eye. Says Christian Ferrier, “When Breguet created the tourbillon, he was trying to solve the issue of errors created by gravity on the hairspring and the escapement. But he was also trying to resolve the issue of oil. In fact, one of his most famous statements is, ‘Give me the perfect oil and I will give you the perfect watch.’ He understood that lubrication or, more specifically, the loss on parts had a very negative effect on watches. Because of this, in 1789, he created the natural escapement.” One of Breguet’s signature inventions, the natural escapement uses two escape wheels turning in opposite directions to all but reduce the sliding friction found in most escapements. In Breguet’s design, the first escape wheel is driven by the mainspring, while the second escape wheel is driven by the first escape wheel. This way, the release of the escape wheels alternates in each direction to reduce sliding friction. A lever in the center rocks back and forth and is what provides the impulse to the balance wheel.
The challenge facing Laurent Ferrier was to define a functional balance between the limited thickness of an automatic movement and a high degree of efficiency for winding the barrel. Achieving this implied finding a system that would ensure perfect winding in order to compensate for the lower inertia of a small oscillating weight. In fact a micro-rotor needs twice as many rotations (300 vs. 150) for one complete turn of the ratchet wheel. Thanks to the efficiency of Laurent Ferrier’s escapement, however, the number of rotations needed can be reduced by one third to approximately 200 rotations — a gain for the owner of the watch.
Ferrier’s exclusive double direct-impulse escapement in silicon that delivers energy directly to the balance is a faithful interpretation of the original natural escapement by Breguet. This modern construction, associated with the use of cutting-edge materials, maximizes the restitution of energy. Thanks to the excellent efficiency of this escapement, the moment of couple (= torque) required to wind the mainspring is reduced and hence optimizes the movement winding. Inspired by the concept of the detent escapement, this escapement has the advantage to give two impulses per oscillation (1 oscillation = 2 vibrations). This means that Laurent Ferrier’s movement frequency of 3Hz (21,600vph) allows it to impulse the balance 21,600 times per hour.
To use a metaphor, we can explain the double direct impulse by using the analogy of a swing: with a detent escapement, you push the swing once and you wait until it bounces back to give it the next impulse; with the double direct-impulse escapement, you push the swing and another person opposite pushes it back on his side.
Says Laurent Ferrier, “I think it is wonderful that we were able to implement the famous natural escapement. I must say we were very impressed with the results of this escapement. Like the tourbillon, it is challenging to install and regulate but once this is correctly done, it has proven to be incredibly stable. It was also important to me that we expressed the same movement design language in the micro-rotor, and so you see that on the angle of the upper bridge, we created a sharp internal angle just to show collectors who appreciate these details that this movement is hand finished to the same standard as our tourbillon.”
Tech Specs
The 2021 Laurent Ferrier Classic Origin for Revolution & The Rake
Ref: LCF036.AC.JN3
Case & dial: Stainless steel; water resistant to 30 m; “ball-shaped’’ crown in stainless steel; case diameter: 40 mm; case thickness: 10.70 mm; back bezel engraved “Revolution & The Rake” and numbered out of 12; gold-toned dial with a sunburst finish on the centre and opaline finish behind the minute track; slate grey hour circle, second markers and logo decals; indexes: white gold Breguet appliques ruthenium treated; small seconds display gold-toned opaline at 6 o´clock
Strap: Light brown Barbialla calf leather with Alcantara lining; additional steel Milanese bracelet, compliments of Revolution & The Rake
The 2021 Laurent Ferrier Classic Micro-Rotor for Revolution & The Rake
Ref: LCF004.AC.RN3
Case & dial: Stainless steel; water resistant to 30 m; “ball-shaped” crown in stainless steel; case diameter: 40 mm; case thickness: 10.70 mm; back bezel engraved “Revolution & The Rake” and numbered out of 12; salmon-toned dial with a sunburst finish on the centre and opaline finish behind the minute track; slate grey hour circle, second markers and logo decals; indexes: white gold Breguet appliques ruthenium treated; small seconds display gold-toned opaline at 6 o´clock
Strap: Slate grey calf leather with Alcantara lining; additional steel Milanese bracelet, compliments of Revolution & The Rake
Availability & price: Limited edition of 12 pieces; USD 54,500