Hermès puts its in-house Calibre H1387 to good use in a new model, the H08. A subtle and discreet watch, it’s all about the angles with a fusion of a circular dial within a softened square. Available in three iterations, it is a capable crossover sports and dress watch that really does change depending on your chosen strap. Rubber, webbing or bracelet; there’s something for everybody.

Reviving the Caliber 1837

First let’s have a quick reminder about the Hermès H1837. Introduced in 2012, the caliber H1837, whose name references the year the house was founded, is a mechanical self-winding movement that is 26mm in diameter, 3.7mm thick, has a double barrel, a balance frequency of 4Hz (28,800vph) and a 50-hour power reserve. When a brand announces an in-house movement, it signals a new era and nine years on Hermès is still rightfully proud of its H1837. And the new watch is putting it to very good use.

The case of the new H08 is 39mm and is available in three options. Brushed titanium, matte-black DLC-coated titanium and an ultra-lightweight, what Hermès calls, graphene-filled composite are the options for the midcase. The titanium watches have a satin-brushed titanium bezel and the composite case has a sunburst stain-brushed ceramic bezel.

The lightweight composite case has an almost Gotham-esque ton sur ton look thanks to the black gold coated dial and black nickel-coated applied Arabic numerals (more on these shortly) and hands. The only pop of colour, which is common to all the models, is a vibrant arrow on the tip of the seconds hand in the house-colour of Hermès orange. The whole look is completed with a black textured rubber strap with titanium deployment clasp. Bruce Wayne could easily pull this off as either himself or his Dark Knight alter ego, which is a good thing in anybody’s book.

A favorable sporty design made better with color

The titanium cased watches are a little less stealthy, but are still understated. Both the brushed titanium and the matte DLC-coated versions have black nickel-coated dials with the applied Arabic numerals with white Super-LumiNova in-fill. The DLC’d case has black nickel-coated hands and the titanium case has rhodium-plated hands. When it comes to straps, my personal favourite is the orange rubber that is an option on the titanium case, but blue rubber is also a choice. The DLC cases are paired with either a black or orange rubber, black or blue webbing or a titanium bracelet with polished rectangular-oval features.

It’s the rectangle-oval, circle-square theme that is most effectively highlighted on the design of the applied numerals on all the models. Where one would traditionally see a fluid and round eight, Hermès has squared off the sides and used a flat line through the middle. Same story with the three, six and nine; or it’s certainly most obvious with these hours. As Hermès states, “The enigmatic name of the Hermès H08 hints at graphics, mathematics and metaphysics”, which is all brought together stylishly in the house style.

Tech Specs: Hermès H08

Movement: Automatic-winding Hermès Manufacture Calibre H1837; 50-hour power reserve
Case: 39mm; graphene/brushed titanium/matte black DLC-coated titanium
Dial: Black gold dial or black nickel-coated dial
Strap: Black or orange rubber; titanium bracelet; black or blue webbing with deployment clasp
Availability: All the pieces are available from April 2021
Pricing: (graphene) £7,260/$8,900; (brushed titanium on rubber or webbing) £4,440/$5,500; (brushed titanium on bracelet) £4,890/$6,050; (matte black DLC-coated titanium on rubber or webbing) £4,620/$5,700