The Low-Down

Montblanc’s top tier of watches are those made in the brand’s Villeret (neé Minverva) facilities. Here the watches are made under one roof, from the tooling of raw materials through to the exceptional hand-finishing of the completed calibres. The watches the Minerva are most famous for are — of course — chronographs. This new limited edition is no exception; a stunning split-seconds chronograph based on an historic military model, albeit with a very fresh green colour-scheme. The dial details aren’t the only thing about this watch that’s green — the case is made from a brand new exclusive alloy called Lime Gold.

IMHO

Let’s not bury the lede here — a brand new material in the world of watches is always exciting. It’s even more exciting when that alloy is called something refreshingly plain language as ‘Lime Gold’. What exactly is Lime Gold? Well, you’ve heard of pink and rose gold — slight variations on the pure alloy that lend the watch a distinctive hue. Well, this is the same thing, but slightly more verdant. According to Montblanc, the alloy is a mix of 18 K gold, silver and iron — which lends a vintage aesthetic. Vintage is an apt word, for while Montblanc’s formulation is completely new, green gold is ancient — alloys of silver and gold are naturally occurring and have long been used in jewellery.

The 44mm case is made from the new alloy. The tone-matched dial stands out thanks to the applied green Arabic numerals, the Super-LumiNova-filled Cathedral-style hands and the delicate, spiralling scale of the tachymeter. At this point in proceedings, it should come as no surprise that the nubuck strap is also a soft green, adding to the watch’s overall antique-y feel.

Of course, we can’t not mention the phenomenal calibre in this watch. When it comes to manually wound chronographs, Montblanc’s Villeret pieces are up there with the best of the best, and Calibre MB M16.31 is no exception. A monopusher with two column-wheels (one for the chronograph, one for the split-seconds), a slow 2.5 Hz beat-rate, gold-plated German Silver plate and bridges and some truly exceptional circular graining and Côtes de Genève.
Montblanc’s latest blend of classicism and funk is a rare affair, limited to 18 pieces.

Tech Specs

Movement: Montblanc Manufacture Calibre MB M16.31, beating at 2.5 Hz; 50 hours of power reserve.
Functions: Manually-wound monopusher chronograph with split second, tachymeter & telemeter
Case: 44mm by 14.2mm tall; Lime Gold with brushed and polished finishes; water-resistant to 3 bar.
Strap: Green nubuck alligator with beige stitching and Lime Gold buckle.
Price and Availability: Limited to 18 pieces; Euro 49,500.