In recent years, Hermès has approached timekeeping with a philosophical twist. Just a couple of weeks before the show, they released new Arceau L’heure De La Lune models with a series of meteorite dials encased in two-tone metals for the first time. The releases were also accompanied with new Arceau Le temps voyageur models, a deep blue Petite lune, and a vibrant Slim d’Hermès Cheval brossé whose colorful design perfectly encapsulated Hermè’s whimsical yet brazen approach to commit to the theme, as interpreted by Philippe Delhotal.

Its highlights of 2025 have brought both familiar and new concepts to the fray. From revisiting a playful complication to recreating an iconic design, Hermès updates this year remains steadfast in relooking at time another way — or not at all.

Arceau Le temps suspendu

For 2025, Hermès’ revives the Le temps suspendu complication with new models, expanding its presence in the collection. 

Arceau Le temps suspendu in brun désert dial. Image: Joel Von Allmen/Hermès

Self-winding Manufacture Hermès H1837. Image: Benjamin Vigliotta/Hermès

Translated from French to mean “time suspended”, Le temps suspendu was introduced in 2011 as a way to play around with time à la to make it “disappear”. At the push of a button, time is temporarily erased from the dial by making the hands retreat from their timekeeping positions, creating the illusion that time has stopped. When in actual fact, the movement continues tracking it behind the scenes. In true Hermès fashion, the idea is as whimsical as it comes, but the action is dependent on sophisticated engineering. The mechanism involves an intricate system of cams, pinions and segments, protected by two separate patents. The module contains 24 jewels and three specialized wheels that reduce play in the movement. 

This creates two modes: normal time and suspended time. This happens with the help of two synchronized column wheels that coordinate the transition between them; one controls the hours while the other manages minutes and date functions, all working through 360° retrograde mechanisms. Play around and it paid off: The watch won Best Men’s Prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie that year. 

In its reintroduction for 2025, the new Arceau Le temps suspendu is expressed in three editions:  rouge sellier (red), brun désert (beige), or sunburst blue, in rose or white gold cases. The “Time suspended” zone is positioned at 12 o’clock, while a translucent lacquered sandblasted sapphire crystal provides a window to the self-winding Manufacture Hermès H1837 movement.

Tech Specs: Hermès Arceau Le temps suspendu

Movement: Self-winding Manufacture Hermès H1837; 45-hour power reserve
Functions: 360° retrograde hour and minute hands; retrograde date hand; pusher-operated start-stop function (suspending time)
Case: 42mm; rose gold; 30m water-resistance
Dial: Rouge sellier (red)/brun désert (beige)/sunburst blue; all with translucent colored lacquered sandblasted sapphire crystal
Strap: Alligator leather strap in rouge sellier/matt étoupe/bleu abysse; black Barénia calfskin leather; or navy blue Swift calfskin

Cut Le temps suspendu

But wait! While Le temps suspendu remains the singular complication on the Arceau line, it has now been extended to the Cut. We’re intrigued how this surprising pairing of this assertive design with the playful module will be received by the community, but that doesn’t negate us from enjoying the watch’s new quirky character. Because adding to that, the subsidiary seconds actually runs counterclockwise on a 24-second rotation. 

Cut Le temps suspendu with sunburst red-tinted dial. Image: Joel Von Allmen/Hermès

In 39mm rose gold cases, two dials are available: in a sunburst red tint or in a silver-toned opaline (an additional model with diamonds). The case design keeps up with the soft geometric aesthetic that is accentuated with a satin finish and contrasting polished bevels. The watch wears on an interchangeable bracelet system with options including a matching rose gold bracelet or on a chalk-colored rubber strap.

Tech Specs: Hermès Cut Le temps suspendu

Movement: Self-winding Manufacture Hermès H1912; 45-hour power reserve
Functions: 360° retrograde hour and minute hands; 24-second running indicator; pusher-operated start-stop function (suspending time)
Case: 39mm; rose gold; 100m water-resistance
Dial: Sunburst red-tinted or silver-toned opaline
Strap: Interchangeable rose gold bracelet with butterfly clasp; additional craie-coloured rubber strap

Maillon Libre: Timekeeping accessories in a new bracelet and brooch

The Maillon Libre is no stranger to Hermès, its anchor chain link motif having taken the form of a signature motif across its apparel and accessories. Now Hermès has brought it into its ever-growing watchmaking collections, reinterpreting the chain link as both a wristwatch and a brooch watch.

Maillon Libre wristwatch. Image: Tom Johnson/Hermès

Maillon Libre wristwatch in white gold with diamonds. Image: Joel Von Allmen/Hermès

Consider this an evolution from the Nantucket or the Chain d’Ancre. The former is a more distinguishable square shape that was conceived in 1991 as part of designer Henri d’Origny’s vision to reinterpret Hermès “Anchor Chain” motif into a timepiece. It was inspired by the elongated links of the Chaîne d’Ancre bracelet, which itself had origins in 1938, when Robert Dumas, a member of the Hermès family, found inspiration in the robust anchor chains used on ships.

The Maillon Libre’s links blend both early designs, resulting in a more capsule-like shape. The new bracelet timepiece is designed in either rose or white gold, featuring diamond or terracotta tourmaline center stones. 

Maillon Libre brooch watch in white gold. Image: Joel Von Allmen/Hermès

The transformable brooch watch can be worn as a pendant thanks to its leather cordlet. Image: Tom Johnson/Hermès

Meanwhile, the brooch watch is a transformable piece that can be worn as a traditional brooch or converted into a pendant thanks to its leather cordlet.

Tech Specs: Maillon Libre wristwatch

Movement: Quartz ETA E01.701 H4
Functions: Hours and minutes
Case: 16.5mm × 27.7mm; rose or white gold set with 38 brilliant-cut diamonds
Dial: Polished rose or white gold; both set with six brilliant-cut diamonds
Strap: Rose or white gold diamond-set bracelet; additional four cushion-shaped terracotta tourmalines (rose gold) or four (0.9ct each) diamonds (white gold); 140mm/150mm/160 mm/170 mm

Tech Specs: Maillon Libre brooch watch

Movement: Quartz ETA E01.701 H4
Functions: Hours and minutes
Case: 35mm × 23mm; rose or white gold set with 44 brilliant-cut diamonds
Dial: Matt onyx or polished rose gold; both set with 10 brilliant-cut diamonds
Brooch: Rose or white gold; both diamond-set with cushion-shaped indicolite tourmaline (white gold) or terracotta tourmaline (rose gold)
Sautoir Necklace: Black Swift calfskin or matt black alligator clochette; black Swift calfskin cordlet; white or rose gold clasp

Arceau Rocabar de Rire

In the metiers d’art department, the latest iteration of the Arceau watch is a cheeky display of both craftsmanship and humor. Originally designed by Henri d’Origny in 1978, the Arceau’s signature round case and asymmetrical stirrup lugs provide the perfect stage for artistic ingenuity. This time, the dial comes alive with a playful horse — dreamed up by Dimitri Rybaltchenko for the Rocabar de rire silk scarf — who would rather stay cozy under a striped blanket than go for a gallop.

Arceau Rocabar de Rire. Image: Joel Von Allmen/Hermès

On demand, the automaton activates the hand-painted horse to stick out its tongue. Image: David Marchon/Hermès

An animated scene unfolds at the press of a pusher at 9 o’clock. The hand-engraved and hand-painted horse sticks out its tongue, flaunting its best profile against a backdrop of vibrant horsehair marquetry stripes. The dial itself is a labor of love, showcasing masterful engraving, delicate micro-painting, and the painstaking placement of individual horsehair strands.

Encased in 41mm of white gold is a self-winding Manufacture Hermès H1837 movement. The watch is limited to just 12 pieces.

Tech Specs: Arceau Rocabar de Rire

Movement: Self-winding Manufacture Hermès H1837 movement; 50-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours and minutes; pusher-operated animation
Case: 41mm; white gold; 30m water-resistance
Dial: Hand-engraved mobile applique horse and miniature painting
Strap: Bleu abysse alligator leather strap
Availability: Limited edition of 12 units