Even with its newer, more advanced movements featuring the Dual Impulse escapement, Grand Seiko hasn’t forgotten the simple classics that feel familiar and comforting. The brand has now refreshed its long-standing Elegance Collection Automatic GMT with two new versions featuring a guilloché-pattern dial in silver or dark blue.

The new SBGM255 “Snowdrop” and SBGM257 “Moondrop” bring back memories of the mosaic-dial SBGM235 from 2018, launched to mark 20 years of the 9S movement. Seven years later, the pattern makes a return – this time in a cleaner, simpler form. How does it hold up?

The SBGM255 “Snowdrop”

An attractive guilloche pattern

It’s common for Grand Seiko to create stamped textures on its dials, but most of them have organic, flowing designs without clear repetition. This time, however, the brand has taken a different approach with a more geometric motif that resembles traditional guilloché work, making this new pair stand out among Grand Seiko’s many special dials.

The dial carries a repeated rhombus pattern that starts narrow and elongated at the centre, then widens and flattens toward the edge. The design is neatly divided by the 24-hour ring, which sits inside the hour markers rather than at the outer perimeter. This is a signature element of the Grand Seiko Automatic GMT.

A delicious blue-and-silver palette

The new pattern is appealing not only for its texture but also for its colours. On the Snowdrop, the silver guilloché pattern is paired with a blue GMT hand and 24-hour ring for a calm, cool look. On the Moondrop, the dark blue guilloché pattern is paired with gold accents for a warm contrast, a gentle reference to the SBGM031 from 2012 that marked the tenth anniversary of Grand Seiko’s automatic GMT movement.

Classic case and dial

Long-time fans of the brand will find the formula behind the latest pair familiar. The watches come in a beautifully polished 39.5 mm round case, with a short GMT hand and a 24-hour ring positioned within the hour markers, paired with a dressy leather strap to complete the look. This has been a signature design for Grand Seiko’s mechanical GMT models since the early days, though not from the very beginning.

The first model, the SBGM001 from 2002, had a completely different style. It was the second model, the ivory-dial SBGM003 launched in 2004, that introduced this design.  The same look continued in later models such as the SBGM021 and eventually the SBGM221, which marked the period when the double-logo design was phased out.

The SBGM257 “Moondrop”

This familiar formula has come to represent what Grand Seiko does best. The hour markers are short and angular to highlight their finishing, while the round case shows the depth of Zaratsu polishing the brand is known for, especially along the facets of the lugs. The pairing with a leather strap brings out a refined and elegant side of the watch.

Inside is the reliable cal. 9S66, running at 4 Hz with a three-day power reserve. It is a long-standing movement in the Grand Seiko family and a proven performer. While there is nothing particularly new about it, it remains a solid, dependable calibre for everyday wear or travel.

A rich blue-and-gold combo

Tech Specs: Grand Seiko Elegance Collection Automatic Mechanical GMT
Reference: SBGM255 (Snowdrop); SBGM257 (Moondrop)
Movement: 9S66; automatic; 72 hours power reserve; 4 Hz or 28,800 vph
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, and GMT
Case: 39.5 mm x 14.1 mm; steel; water resistant to 30 m
Strap: Crocodile leather with folding buckle
Availability: At Grand Seiko boutiques and retailers
Limited edition: No
Price: USD 5,400