Announcing the Lots: Revolution x The Rake Covid-19 Solidarity AuctionBy Wei Koh
Why an auction?
I hope you’re healthy and safe. I know this has been a tough time for a lot of people. Many businesses have been impacted; some are even considering shutting down. A lot of people have had to deal with illness or even loss in their families.
You might have heard that Revolution is holding a charity auction of prototype and unique watches and I want to explain why. Those of us who are lucky enough to live in a first world country are starting to see restrictions lifted and our economies coming back online.
But we are just starting to see the effects of the pandemic in countries that are less fortunate, that did not have the same level of medical support and infrastructure that we have. So, we wanted to raise funds for these countries that are most urgently affected.
I also wanted to point out that hosting a charity auction to raise money for a cause is not an original idea. Luc Pettavino has been hosting Only Watch for many years to benefit research into Muscular Dystrophy. And, early this year a great example was set by Andrew McUtchen and Time+Tide who demonstrated that an online watch magazine could galvanize the industry around an urgent cause.
Amid the onslaught of the Australian fires McUtchen and Time+Tide created Watch Act, a charity auction that benefited bush fire relief efforts. So, it’s not that we think we have any particular right to unite the watch industry around the Covid-19 cause. We just wanted to make a small effort, to make a gesture of solidarity in fighting this pandemic.
When and where will the auction be held?
Our auction will be hosted the week of June 15th. We didn’t want to wait too much longer. This has made it a little difficult for some brands that wanted to participate but couldn’t be ready by this date and we understand and thank them anyway.
The auction will be hosted on Givergy.com, which is a business that specializes in hosting online charity auctions. They will accept the payment and then forward the funds directly to the chosen charity. If you win a lot, we will send you proof that your money has been sent to your charity.
OK, with that out of the way let’s get to the fun stuff. Many of the auction lots come from our limited-edition collaborations over the last three years. Some are donated by us such as the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph “Blue Dreamer” and the Sinn 155 1Bundeswehr “Dark Star” and some are donated by the brands, who made them such as the Hublot Aerofusion Chronograph “Molon Labe” titanium and bronze chronograph or the Zenith Chronomaster Revival Ref. A3818 “Cover Girl”.
We’ve also got watches with incredible personal history such as Georges Kern’s personal Navitimer PAN AM limited edition on an Air Racer bracelet that he’s worn since he took over as CEO of the brand and donated by Breitling. While Panerai has donated the factory prototype of the Carbotech 44 blue index Luminor Marina PAM 1661 launched just this year.
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Wearing my beautiful „modern retro“ SWISSAIR Capsule Edition (part of the Air Line Capsule Squad with Pan Am and TWA). Such a cool watch and so different from the rest of the watch market. @breitling #breitling #watchesofinstagram #watchcollector #watchaddict #watchoftheday #watchfam #watchuseek
My buddy George Bamford has jumped in with a unique pink and green Bamford GMT that we’ve already got a lot of staff competing for. We’ve even got watches donated by individual collectors such as @hands.faces.cases who read about the auction and wanted to donate his very cool Baltic salmon dial Worn&Wound limited edition watch. And the awesome guys at Time+Tide have donated a DOXA SUB 300 Carbon Aqua Lung US Divers Sharkhunter. So, I wanted to catch up with you to give you the latest on all the auction lots we’ve confirmed so far.
Finally, I am proud to announce when the team behind my other magazine The Rake heard about the Revolution auction they also wanted to participate and assembled some amazing lots of their own. As such we’ve decided to merge the two sets of lots together and change the name of the auction from the Revolution Odd Balls auction to the Revolution x The Rake Covid-19 Solidarity Auction.
Which also makes sense because, in fact, two of the auction lots – the prototypes of the Hublot “Molon Labe” and TAG Heuer “Blue Dreamer”, were created with The Rake in mind. Please check out the additional Rake lots because they are genuinely cool and if you like cigars, tailoring and classic men’s style, they should appeal to you.
Let’s look at the auction lots we have confirmed so far. I am sure you will agree that there is some amazing stuff here.
N.B.: We will be adding further lots to this list as our remaining partners finalize their contributions.
George Bamford earned his reputation as the watch world’s coolest customizer, by transforming Rolexes into blacked out, hyper-modern timepieces that struck a massive chord with an all new generation of watch buyers.
He has since been brought in house, creating special editions and unique pieces for brands such as TAG Heuer, Zenith and Bulgari amongst others. Watches such as his 50-piece Zenith A384 “Edge of Space” limited edition created for Mr. Porter – which sold out in a matter of minutes – has solidified his position as a true aesthetic innovator.
This watch, Bamford’s GMT features George’s original design. It uses a Swiss movement and enables the owner to tell time in two zones, thanks to a 24-hour bezel that is controlled using the crown at the top left of the cushion shaped case. This unique piece features a wonderful pink and green bezel created by George to bring a smile to our faces.
Retail value at £1,100 // Limited Editions £1,500
Launched in 2018 the now sold out Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43 PAN AM edition was created as a tribute to the Golden Age of commercial air travel. Its vivid blue and red colorway energizes the Navitime’s iconic design characterized by clear easy-to-read tri-compax chronograph layout, complimented by its signature slide rule bezel that allowed pilots to perform crucial calculations when airborne.
The watch is made unique first by the addition of the ultra-cool Air Racer bracelet and second by the fact that it is Breitling CEO Georges Kern’s personal watch. When it comes to leaders in the watch industry, they don’t come more famous or accomplished than Georges Kern, who transformed IWC from the pragmatic manufacturer of instrument watches into one of the hottest watch brands on the planet. Since 2017, he has been applying the same magic to Breitling resulting in some of the most appealing modern timepieces around – like this Navitimer. This amazing lot comes with a handwritten message from Kern, to the new owner.
The retail value of this watch is £7,000
This is a lot of three Swatch Sistem51 Hodinkee Generation 1986 watches, generously donated by a friend who has asked to remain anonymous. Hodinkee worked with Swatch to produce a timepiece that is fun, affordable, and highlights the company’s key role in the revival of the Swiss watch industry.
This was also the third time that Hodinkee has collaborated with Swatch to produce a timepiece. The first was the Swatch Sistem51 Hodinkee Vintage 84 in 2017 and next came the Sistem51 Blue Edition for Hodinkee in 2018. The Sistem51 Hodinkee Generation 1986 was launched in 2019.
The fact that it also contains the Sistem51 movement, now with the anti-magnetic Nivachron™ hairspring, ends up as a pretty great bonus. The Sistem51is considered by many collectors as one of the most interesting mechanical developments in the watchmaking world this past decade.
Retail price £135 (per watch)
When Chopard Co-President and owner Karl-Friedrich Scheufele first heard about the Revolution x The Rake Covid-19 Solidarity Auction, to benefit the World Health Organization’s Covid-19 Solidarity Fund, he wanted to find just the right timepiece to donate.
When he told us that he was providing us with the prototype of the titanium Mille Migila watch worn by Ryan Reynolds in the 6 Underground, we were absolutely blown away by his generosity.
He explains, “Chopard does not, as a rule, put prototypes of our creations up for sale. But in an exceptional situation, an adequate response is required, and the COVID-19 pandemic gives us a reason to break this rule.
“We herewith offer the first prototype of a bold time piece for sale to benefit the World Health Organization’s Covid-19 Solidarity Response Fund. It is the Scheufele family’s hope that this highly exceptional ‘Mille Miglia GTS Power Control Grigio Speciale’ will break auction records to raise as much money as possible to support the fight against the virus.”
Retail value £10,000
The Place Girardet was created in 2016 to celebrate Girard-Perregaux’s 225th Anniversary. Ok what’s cool about this watch? Girard-Perregaux is most famous for its incredible three golden bridge tourbillon. Where each bridge supports one of the movement’s key elements such as the barrel, the center wheel and the tourbillon.
The Place Girardet was the first watch to borrow a single gold bridge and instead of a tourbillon, features a simple Microvar free spring balance wheel, to create a more accessibly priced timepiece.
Every dial of the 225-piece edition was different and each featured a different engraving related to an event that occurred in one of the 225 years since Girard-Perregaux’s birth. What is appealing is that the great folks at Girard-Perregaux have tracked down the prototype of this sold out special series and engraved this year “2020” with the Latin phrase “E Pluribus Unum”.
This is both the state motto of New York and the motto of the United States of America, but it’s relevance transcends any geographical boundary. Because it means “out of many one,” a statement that reminds us all that we are in this struggle against the Covid-19 pandemic and the medical and economic devastation, together.
Retail value CHF 29,600
When I first announced Revolution’s charity auction, an incredible person named Vaughan, who goes by the Instagram handle @hands.faces.cases based in Australia reached out to say, he wanted to donate this Baltic x Worn & Wound sold out Sector dial beauty.
In many ways Baltic, a brand founded in France in 2017 and Worn & Wound founded in 2011 – a great online resource with a focus on great value watches – are each other’s spiritual counterparts.
Their timepiece is inspired by sector or scientific dial watches found from the 20’s well into the 50’s. These dials feature separate tracks for the minutes/seconds and the hours for ultimate precision. There is a particular design finesse with which this dial has been executed in the use of a frosted/sandblasted finish for both the center of the dial and the outer edge where the minute/seconds track – in chemin de fe format – sits. Hours in beautifully stylized Arabic numerals sit on a circular brushed background, while the center of the dial also features a crosshair element.
The retail value of this watch is USD 400
Created in 2005 the Hublot Big Bang united traditional watchmaking with exciting contemporary design and the use of modern materials. The Aerofusion refers to a fully skeletonized chronograph model that allows you to see the inner mechanics of the in-house Unico movement powering your watch.
The “Molon Labe” was conceptualized as a fusion of ancient and modern materials. Its name comes from the response from Leonidas – the King of the 300 Spartans, who defended Thermopylae from the army of Xerces of Persia. In the face of overwhelming odds, he and his force of elite soldiers were commanded to lay down their weapons. His response to this was “Molon labe”, or “come and get them”.
The Spartans shields were made from bronze, the same material for this watch’s bezel. The “Molon Labe” was created in a 25-piece limited edition for The Rake in 2018 and was rapidly sold out. Beware The Rake and Revolution founder intends to bid on this watch as the “Molon Labe” he reserved with number 1, was sold behind his back to a customer in London and he is still pissed off by this.
Retail value £14,900
In 2019 two intrepid aviators, Steve Boultbee-Brooks and Matt Jones, successfully attempted to fly a Silver Spitfire around the world, taking in some of the most famous landmarks on the planet from the Grand Canyon in the West to the snow-capped peak of Mount Fuji in the East. IWC supported the project as a sponsor, and created this watch for the pilots.
They took off from Goodwood in England on August 5, 2019, on the 75th Anniversary of the D-Day invasion. The watch is cased in stainless steel and measures 46 mm in diameter. Similar in dimensions to the Big Pilot, it also uses a large onion crown and has a height of 15.1 mm.
The large size of the watch is good for legibility while on the job and the easy adjustments of the timezone using the bezel is a plus. Rotating the bezel sets the watch to a different time zone. The hour hand, the 24-hour display and the date are likewise adjusted automatically. The names of 24 cities are displayed on the bezel; each one represents one of the international time zones.
The timepiece on offer is the prototype that has been there since Pre-SIHH, SIHH, the take-off, signing of the Silver Spitfire, the stopover in Santa Monica and the landing in Goodwood. It’s really witnessed the story of the Silver Spitfire.
The watch is will also be accompanied by flight gear worn by pilot Matt Jones for part of the journey.
Jose R. Bueiz Girona
Another act of kindness portrayed here is from my friend, Jose R. Bueiz Girona (@zeaccesorios). Jose reached out to offer his personal, 1954 Omega Constellation ref. 2782-6SC.
When I asked him, what compelled him towards this act of generosity, Jose started by telling me a little about the watch, “offered here is my 1954 Omega Constellation ref. 2782-6sc in gold cap and stainless steel, powered by its chronometer rated cal. 354 movement.
“This example of the early bumper operated Constellation is in beautiful condition. An all original watch that I am the second owner of. The watch was pampered by the original owner and it really does show. Its cross-haired dial does show signs of lacquer degradation for the exposure to sunlight, but [overall] it is completely legible and intact.
“I have had the dial looked at by a professional watchmaker, Scott Heisler of Orlando Watch Co., a second-generation watchmaker, degreed and certified to work on all major brands, Omega, Breitling, Cartier and Rolex to name a few.
“Ivory dial is 100% original and has a feature only Mother Nature and time can produce. In person, you see a suede-like look to the dial, very unique! Crystal is perfect with Omega symbol still visible in the center. Hands and crown are original and wonderful shape.
“The case of the gold capped Connie has not been banged or desk-rashed as one would expect of a watch of its age. Facets are intact and clean. And that Observatory! Looks like the day it was placed on the case back. Crown is very sharp and crisp.
“The cal. 354 movement is running like it was just assembled yesterday and is spot on. Very clean and a well taken care of timepiece. And of course, has the original Omega buckle to top it all off.”
Guys, I think I’ll leave it at that.
Factory Prototype Luminor Marina PAM 1661 Carbotech 44 with blue indexes
Panerai has always been one of our favorite brands. This watch takes the unique carbon fiber contrasted with vivid blue elements introduced in Panerai’s Lab ID, a watch that uses no lubrication of any kind.
Carbotech is carbon fibre and a polymer compressed into thin sheets and layered, then milled providing a much higher surface hardness than molded carbon fiber cases. This watch features Panerai’s sandwich dial which allows for far greater application of luminous material in this case rendered in vivid blue.
It uses Panerai’s automatic 3-day power reserve movement P9010 and is the prototype of one of 2020’s hottest releases. The screw down case back is made in DLC treated titanium and the watch is water resistant to 300 meters. Note that this watch will be engraved OP7060 PN003965 with “OFFICINE PANERAI” instead of PANERAI as the watchmaker does today.
The retail value of this watch is USD 12,800
The Reservoir Hydrosphere is the world’s only retrograde minute, jumping hourz dive watch. Reservoir has created a unique bronze edition for The Rake dedicated to our first shop situated on the Fari Islands, in the Maldives due to open in January 2021.
Please note this watch is still being created and will only be ready for delivery at the end July. In addition, as this is the very first Fari Islands specific prototype the watch will also come with a voucher for a two-night stay in a villa at the Fari Islands resort in the Maldives, which can be redeemed once it is opened.
Retail value £3,500
We’ve seen an incredible outpouring of kindness from the watch collecting community in the wake of the announcement of our auction. And this is made tangible by the many people who reached out to donate their personal watches towards our cause.
One such individual was my buddy, Richard. When he saw that another buddy of mine, Vaughan aka @hands.faces.cases, had offered his personal time-only Baltic x Worn & Wound limited edition, Richard reached out to offer his bi-compax chronograph Baltic x Worn & Wound limited edition.
When asked why he decided to donate his watch, Richard very simply shared, “I’m really just a watch enthusiast, and wanted to support the ongoing fight against Covid-19. The fight against COVID-19 is still very much ongoing, and this was an opportunity to support that effort, especially in areas that may not have the same health care resources available.”
The Excalibur Essential Blue has been created by Roger Dubuis to express the attitude of the brand, paying tribute to the essence of the maison’s watchmaking and its past but in a manner that demonstrates the brand’s vision for its future.
The special sunray grey dial, surrounded by a deep blue outline, was specifically realized for ODD BALLS Charity initiative. The color is intended to project Roger Dubuis’ future, with trust. The Blue color is a symbol for the brand, of truth: like a clear sky. To the brand, it’s meant to be a connection to a place where impossible becomes possible.
Sinn — From Revolution’s Archives
The Bundeswehr watch was designed for military pilots, in the West German Federal Defence Force (Bundeswehr). They were initially made by a company called Leonidas, which was later purchased by Heuer. Sinn’s role in this story came during the 1980s and early 1990s when Mr Helmut Sinn purchased phased-out watches from the inventories of the Bundeswehr and sold these after reconditioning with, inter alia, added SINN lettering on the dial under the label “Bundeswehr Chronograph for Pilots” as the Model 155 Bw.
All watches were fitted with a “Bund” style double layer strap, which was meant to protect the pilot’s skin in the case of extreme temperatures. In 2019 Sinn reissued the 155 Bundeswehr, this time in collaboration with Revolution.
This is the rarest of the three re-editions with just 150 examples made. It features the exact same case, bezel and domed plexiglass crystal as the vintage military watches but in place of the 3H logo you will find a subtle black star that can only be seen in direct light endowing the military chronograph with its sobriquet the “Dark Star”. Revolution had retained this “00” prototype for our archives, however we are now making it available to this cause.
The retail value of this watch is USD 2,500
TAG Heuer — From Revolution’s Archives
This is the actual prototype watch our founder Wei Koh unveiled to Hodinkee founder Ben Clymer in their episode of Talking Watches in 2017. If you want to watch that you can check it out here.
The “Blue Dreamer” was created to pay tribute to the iconic Carrera Skipper watch from the 60’s. It is also inspired by the sun and waters of the French Riviera. Dressed in cool hues of blue with off-white details, the watch is powered by a specially modified, date-less, version of TAG Heuer’s automatic Calibre 18.
The 39mm steel case of the watch with its boxed sapphire crystal calls up on a note of discreet elegance, which still manages to offer versatility for any occasion when appropriately dressed in one of the three supplied straps: An original blue calfskin leather strap, a blue-and-white striped textile NATO strap, and a third blue leather strap. Note that this limited edition currently sells for double the original retail price of USD 5,900
The retail value of this watch is USD 5,900
Van Cleef & Arpels
About the collection:
Palais De La Chance collection celebrates the Enchanting Nature, one of Van Cleef & Arpels’ recognizable signatures.
Each timepiece of the Palais de la Chance collection uses the exceptional Metiers d’Art of the Maison to tell the story of a symbol of luck.
Each design has been produced in a very limited number: 22 pieces, to pay homage to another “lucky number”: the location of 22, place Vendome.
About the timepiece:
A rare gift of nature, the four leaf clover is believed to bring luck and happiness to the one who finds it. The diamonds clover of the Midnight Palais de la chance Trèfles Decor timepiece is thus a precious good fortune keeper.
When approached about our Covid-19 Solidarity Auction it was the decision of TAG Heuer’s outgoing CEO, Stefan Bianchi and, incoming CEO, Frédéric Arnault to offer a unique execution of the Heuer 02T.
On the watch’s fully skeletonized dial, instead of the typical TAG Heuer logo we find the “inverted logo” which resembles the silhouette of a house. This logo along with the hashtag #stayhome was used throughout the period of self-isolation and shelter at home around the world as a symbol of unity and support by TAG Heuer.
Says the brand’s Heritage Director Catherine Eberle-Devaux, “We thought it would be extremely fitting to create a unique watch with a skeletonized dial and featuring this ‘Stay Home’ logo which became very meaningful to the TAG Heuer community throughout the Covid-19 lockdown.”
As this watch will be a piece unique, the watch will only be ready in fall however Eberle explains, “We would love to invite the winning bidder to come and visit us in La Chaux-de-Fonds and tour both our manufacture and our museum.”
Finally, the winner will also be invited to the Monaco for either the E Grand Prix, the Grand Prix Historic or the F-1 race in 2021. There he or she will be invited to dinner with Eberle and myself. We would like to thank TAG Heuer for this combination of an extraordinary watch and a wonderfully unique experience.
Yet another friend of ours who reached out to offer his personal watch is, Nik (@timeandgrooves). This one’s from a brand that’s quite under the radar, but it is with great honor that we represent Nik’s generosity in wanting to donate his watch for our auction.
Caravelle is a brand that was initiated by Bulova in in the 1960s. The idea with the brand was to offer Bulova customers a more value orientated offering. Think Hans Wilsdorf’s intention behind Tudor.
In true mid-20th century styling, the watch’s stainless-steel case measures in at 37mm and is powered by a manual winding movement, the Caravelle cal. 11 DP, which was produced by Citizen for Bulova.
Great dial on the watch with the lume Arabic hour markers on the cardinal points and baton markers for the remaining, all still intact. The bezel insert of the watch has taken on a great bit of tropical patina. Of course, the most desirable bit of detail is that “666FEET” marking at 6 o’clock, giving whole new meaning to the words, “the devil is in the detail.”
Big thanks to Andrew McUtchen for this fantastic lot. Doxa has an incredible history with diving watches. Indeed, one of Jacques Cousteau’s team Claude Wesly was involved in helping Doxa design their SUB 300 dive watch.
This watch launched in 1967 is characterized by its thin barrel shaped case, its thick bezel engraved with the US Navy’s no-decompression scale and domed acrylic sapphire. Its famous orange bezel aided visibility when submerged. Cousteau was such a fan of the watch that he secured the exclusivity of importing it through his company US Divers Company in Los Angeles and even requested his famous Aqualung logo on the dial, consisting of a yellow oxygen tank and a regulator.
The very first watches had black backgrounds on the logo, but it was decided that this obscured the visibility of the minute hand and so it was abandoned. It is believed that just 10 of these watches were created and represent the Holy Grail in vintage Doxa collecting.
For 2020 Doxa has created a 300-piece limited edition that is faithful to the original in design and new in every other way with a forged carbon case and dial. An example of this is being offered by Time+Tide, one of the best resources for online watch information and entertainment.
As the watch is only recently launched, Doxa will only be able to deliver to the winner bidder in August of 2020.
The retail value of this watch is USD 4,790
The most collectable vintage Zenith chronograph is the legendary El Primero ref. A3818, otherwise known as the “Cover Girl”, thanks to its appearance on the front of Manfred Rössler’s book Zenith: Swiss Watch Manufacture Since 1865.
For those of you who have had the chance to set eyes on the “Cover Girl”, the watch can only be described as jaw-droppingly stunning. It uses the same angular, tonneau-shaped case as the Zenith Ref. A384, but features one of the most unique dials in modern watchmaking, with striations that catch the light quite magnificently.
Its defining feature is a stepped or uneven racing track demarcated with thin radial lines that look like a shark’s teeth. These tiny lines, designed almost like a soundwave, lead the eye towards the combination of a pulsation and tachymeter scale above the minute track.
It is important to note that there are precisely 300 of these ultra-thin markers on the dial, allowing you to read the chronograph seconds to an accuracy of 1/10th of a second, which the legendary high-frequency 5Hz (36,000vph) El Primero movement is capable of. This factory prototype is donated by Zenith and is the watch that appears in all the images related to the launch of this sold out special edition.
The retail value of this watch is USD 8,100
Crafted and other lots amassed by The Rake
Special donation by Ahmed “Shary” Rahman
Ahmed “Shary” Rahman is a former Rake of the Year, and one of the world’s foremost authorities on watches, style, cigars and travel. He has kindly donated these two amazing cigar cases as is his tradition with each of The Rake’s charity auctions in the past.
The retail value of the “Churchill” 3 cigar case in black canvas and gold leather is £470; Case “Churchill” 4 cigars in black canvas and gold leather is £570
Special donation by Alexander Kraft
Alexander Kraft is the CEO and owner of Sotheby’s realty France and Monaco, former Rake of the Year, founder of eponymous clothing brand Alexander Kraft Monte Carlo.
He has offered a two-night stay at his charming bed and breakfast in Provence, France along with a plethora of Negronis and good cheer with him and his faithful canine companion Bertie.
The winner of this lot will have his experience featured in a story for The Rake (if they wish).
Retail value of the stay is 500 Euro. However, the value of Mr. Kraft’s company is, of course, priceless.
Assouline publishes the most glamourous books in the world and this totemic tome roughly the size of a coffee table and weighing almost as much is no exception. A must have for any Rolex collectors.
Retail value of this book is USD 895
Caroline Andrew brings feminine flair to Savile Row
British female entrepreneur Caroline Andrew is a face to follow in Mayfair.
Fresh from winning the Mayfair Times ‘Bright Young Thing’ award in 2020, she is the first woman to own a tailoring business in 11 Saint George Street, and is set to revolutionize the iconic neighbourhood with her bespoke offering, which is already drawing a young, discerning and diverse audience.
Having recently designed the wedding suit of Britain’s golden boy of isolation, Joe Wicks, Caroline is lauded by the next generation of power dressers, and counts fashion icon Jack Guinness and model and LGBTQ+ activist Munroe Bergdorf amongst her fans. Not forgetting her biggest following of everyday business suit wearers, amongst whom include FTSE board directors, senior executives in the city and beyond.
Highly skilled in designing for both men and women, her inclusive, contemporary attitude towards tailoring stands out in what is a male dominated industry that hasn’t changed much in the past few hundred years.
Caroline is a breath of fresh air on Savile Row, a young, ambitious female designer, educated at the London College of Fashion. She’s taking on the boys in their own backyard, and quickly building a name for herself with her confident, contemporary tailoring.
Caroline’s aesthetic is characterised by clean silhouettes, sharp lines for business and formal events, and more relaxed soft lines for casual parties. Generally less means more, making the simple feel elegant and understated. But the customer is always at the centre of her work.
For her, Made To Measure isn’t just a service, it’s a mindset, defined by the relationship between the tailor and the person they are creating a suit for. The experience she creates, from that first consultation to the final fitting, is collaborative, relaxed and unpretentious.
In many ways, Millennials are no different to their parents, The Baby Boomers. They want quality and they are happy to pay it. But they also crave unique experiences, fresh perspectives, and prefer a more down to earth, personable service.
That’s why the fashion forward and the classic dresser alike are heading in droves to Caroline Andrew.
Retail value £4,300
Cifonelli, the perennial Rake favorite, is one of the world’s storied and fabled tailors. Presided over by cousins Lorenzo and Massimo Cifonelli, it is known for its sleek modern cut, complemented by a wonderfully soft construction and the famous Cifonelli shoulder that allows for unrivaled mobility.
The winner of this lot will be featured with his suit in a story for The Rake (if they wish).
Retail value of this suit is Euro 7,000
London’s most iconic shoemaker, Cleverley shoes have been worn by every stylish man on the planet from the Baron de Rede to Daniel Day Lewis. The shop situated in Mayfair’s Royal Arcade is overseen by two generations of the Glasgow family.
The winner of this lot will be featured with the bespoke shoes in a story for The Rake (if they wish). They will also be given a pair of bespoke shoetrees.
Retail value of £3,950
Founded in 1934, Ettinger is one of the finest luxury leather goods manufacturers in Great Britain and the only one with a Royal Warrant to HRH The Prince of Wales. They have donated two of their most iconic pieces, The Pursuits Hurlingham Overnight bag in Navy/black and a Double Watch Roll in Navy to this good cause.
Retail value £840
Special donation by Fabien Fryns
World-renown art dealer Fabien Fryns, who specialises in contemporary Chinese art, has most generously donated a print from an artist who Fabien describes as the leading painter of his generation, Jia Aili. Usually represented by the Gagossian gallery, his work may be seen as a dystopian (arguably prescient) vision into the future, but really is about a message of hope, and how human good will prevail. This particular print’s original sits in the Pinault Collection in Paris. The print is currently in Beijing, and the winning bidder will have it shipped from Beijing, and will require shipping, insurance and import duties, if applicable.
Retail value £8,000
Established in 1987 and synonymous with great British design, Globe-Trotter is a luxury travel lifestyle brand producing beautifully handcrafted luggage and leather collections. In 2011, as a result of Daniel Craig being a huge fan, Globe-Trotter was asked to produce a case for the up-coming Bond film which was eventually named Skyfall. After numerous attempts at using materials other than their trademark Vulcanised Fibre Board, they found a local supplier who was making petrol tanks for racing cars and together they built this case which was the first prototype. This later resulted in the black anodised assassin’s case which is seen being carried in the film by Patrice (Ola Rapace) in the Shanghai scene.
Retail value £5,000
Hunters & Frankau
Jemma Freeman (Managing Director of Hunters & Frankau), Inspired by an upturn in interest for slender cigars among UK smokers, decided on the Laguito No.1 vitola. Measuring 7 1/2 “ (192mm) x 38, this size was immortalised by the Cohiba Lanceros which is still in limited production today and the fabled Trinidad cigar of the same dimensions reserved for Diplomats and VIPs visiting Cuba in the 1970s.
El Rey del Mundo (King of the World) brand was chosen because its delicate flavours and subtle aromas lent themselves perfectly to this slim shape and make this cigar accessible to seasoned and new cigar smokers alike. Credit for the regal and somewhat apt name, “La Reina” (The Queen) is attributed to the late great Simon Chase.
Simon was the former Marketing Director of Hunters & Frankau, and remains, without question, the King of the world of Habanos. During the development of this cigar Hunters & Frankau were given an unprecedented opportunity, to conduct a tasting outside of Cuba to decide the final blend. For this challenge a group of UK Specialists were invited to the offices of Hunters & Frankau to form a panel for a blind tasting. A clear winner emerged and went forward as the official blend for the 2018 UK Regional Edition – El Rey del Mundo La Reina.
Today the most qualified rollers to make this challenging size work at El Laguito factory, in Cuba. This factory is home to the Cohiba brand and the birthplace for the iconic Laguito No.1 vitola. The Indeed, the size was originally created by Eduardo Rivera and was offered to President Fidel Castro in 1963, almost two decades before it was commercially launched. Every single La Reina has been made at El Laguito factory. We believe this is a first for any Habanos Regional Edition.
3,500 boxes of El Rey del Mundo La Reina is scheduled to be produced. Each box will contain 24 cigars measuring 7 ½” (192mm) x 38 (Laguito No.1).
The Bespoke watch strap ranges from classic watch strap to NATO straps, vintage inspired ones and oversized, in a wide variety of leathers like stingray, alligator, lizard, crocodile, shark, ostrich, shell cordovan, calfskin, goatskin, caiman, shearling, pigskin, wild boar, suede, Cuir de Russie, frog, and some other leathers.
All Huitcinq leather goods, including card-holders, money clips, wallets and other bespoke creations, are entirely hand-cut and hand-crafted in Rome, Italy, without use of cutting or stitching machines. Huitcinq1988 is just two hands and old-school tools of the trade. The stitching is made with the ancient method of saddle-stitching, with one thread and two needles, using a precious waxed linen thread made in France. The edges of the product are coated with a special paint which undergoes a manual heat treatment which melts the waxes and seals them off to ensure great resistance over time. A lot of other passages are involved in the creation of their leather goods, which sometimes can take up to 2/3 weeks to be completed.
The brand’s CEO commented: “I just felt it was right to get on board with Wei and The Rake’s team for a good cause. Huitcinq1988 is proud of its contribution to these charity events since the beginning of our collaboration with The Rake. It’s just a little effort from me, no need to talk too much about it.”
The retail value of the watch strap is £840
“At Linely we are inspired by transforming an ethereal idea into a reality and we are fortunate enough to work with master craftsmen who turn the impossible into the possible. Everything we create at LINLEY is recognizable by those quintessentially British characteristics of inventiveness, meticulous attention to detail, creativity, elegance, wit and charm.We have always championed British craftsmanship and we are very proud of our artistry, both in terms of concept and implementation. It is our hope that the passion that drives the creative process is evident in everything we do.”
Named after the Dragon God of the east, and of the essence of spring the Azure Jewellery Box features a scale-pattern inlay, with turquoise ash veneers. Opposing grain directions in the ash inlay give an illusion of flickering movement.The box has a hallmarked sterling silver escutcheon, a finely crafted walnut chamfer and is completed with a removable jewellery tray, lined with soft faux suede.
The retail value of this box is £2,750
New & Lingwood
A vicuña gown is a first for New & Lingwood, a luxury even by the outfitter’s indulgent standards, and it marks an exciting moment. “Piacenza has a strong reputation for the finest quality Italian fabrics and is one of the very few mills to have access to this noblest of fibres,” says Maloney. “We’ve worked with Piacenza for many years now, and it was a natural decision to partner with them on this project, too.”
To do Piacenza’s vicuña justice, New & Lingwood have created a gown that needs to be seen and felt in the flesh to be fully appreciated — it’s refined, elegant and supremely soft. “It seemed almost an insult to over-design this piece,” says Maloney. “The cloth speaks for itself in its lustre and drape, so clean styling without quilting, facings or extraneous details seemed the obvious decision. It was also important that we kept the gown unlined, so the wearer could feel the fabric against the skin. Slipping on one of these is a truly unique experience.”
Retail value £20,000
James Purdey & Sons Ltd, Gun & Rifle Makers is a sterling British heritage brand, founded in 1814, they hold three Royal Warrants from The Queen, The Duke of Edinburgh and The Prince of Wales. For over 200 years they have been crafting some of the world’s most treasured shotguns and rifles. Interpolated with their devotion to the art of gunsmithing is their dedication to crafting a wide variety of country sport equipment and accessories. It is the necessities that can make all the difference to the enjoyment of country pursuits.
Perhaps the most versatile design in the collection is the aptly named Weekender style. Handmade in Italy, the shape is a twist on the classic wayfarer model. The marked differences which are emblematic of Purdey’s adroit innovation are that the end pieces and temples are finished with ruthenium fittings, complete with gun chequering. Whether it be strolling through the urban metropolis, ambling along the Promenade des Anglais or out on the sporting field in rural Herefordshire, this is an accomplished pair, suited for all environments.
Handmade in Japan with tortoiseshell acetate frames and Polarised Zeiss lenses the Keeper is an elegant design. But it still retains many of the brand’s country touches with the sunglasses finished with small nods to gun design and has chequered end pieces with side lock shaped ends on the bridge. Its Ripel coating keeps fog, dirt, grime and water off the lens so vision remains clear and the lens stays cleaner for longer. Crouched amongst the heather on the edge of the Cairngorms, waiting for that beautiful stag to appear in windy conditions, these lenses are equipped with the type of technology that won’t scupper your chances of the stag bypassing your eyeline.
The Traveller is also handmade in Japan and is a quintessential aviator with an effortless titanium frame and a discreet walnut brow taken from stock blanks. The chequering detail and engraved pin keeps these iconic to Purdey.
In Purdey’s Sporter sunglasses there’s a classic safari elegance imbued in the pair. Designed for shooting, these sunglasses harken back to similar styles that the famous Happy Valley used to wear. They were a group of white, western expatriates and a capricious band of protagonists who engaged in a lifestyle of weapons-grade hedonism in Kenya. Often dressed in extremely chic sporting clothing living a suave colonial existence, this pair would’ve been ideal for the set on their gregarious safari pursuits. In view of this the technology combined with style is designed for competitive shot, that will raise the bar in terms of performance. The three sets of interchangeable lenses allow you to adapt to varying weather conditions, and two types of temple tips can also be alternated depending on style or function.
Thom Whiddett first met Luke Sweeney when they were working together at Timothy Everest in 2003. The pair initially set up “shop” in a room in London’s Mayfair in 2007 where they took private orders. The first Thom Sweeney store opened in 2009, on the site of a former art gallery on nearby Weighhouse Street. Ready-to-wear launched on Mr Porter in 2013, a second physical store, on Bruton Place, followed in 2014 with the New York outpost opening in late 2017.
Like their stores and approach, the Thom Sweeney cut is simultaneously relaxed yet polished. The soft shoulder feels natural, comfortable and relevant; at the same time, the chest is canvassed for structure and the waist nipped in flatteringly, as is the British custom. In short, the best of both worlds.
While their cut is perhaps contemporary by traditional standards, Thom Sweeney is not a designer brand. It represents timeless style with a modern sensibility; they make garments to last years, not seasons.
Today, the name Thom Sweeney is internationally recognized. Their ready-to-wear is stocked in the most discerning retailers around the world, while their bespoke tailors travel far beyond Mayfair’s confines to the world’s capitals.
“Thom and I, along with the whole team, wanted to help in whatever we could. We launched our e-commerce site earlier this year, with 10% of all proceeds being split between NHS Heroes and New York City Mayor’s Covid-19 Emergency Relief Fund. So getting involved with Wei and the team to help support this auction was an easy decision. Get bidding!”
Retail value £5,000
The Royal Berkshire Shooting School
The Royal Berkshire Shooting School is based in an area of outstanding natural beauty just an hour from London. They are offering a two hour session for four guests at the Royal Berkshire Shooting School to include 50 clays and cartridges per person and gun hire if required. This gift is suitable from the very novice shot through to the most experienced, with a highly experienced Royal Berkshire instructor looking after you for the duration. Novice shots will learn how to break their first clays, whereas more experienced shots can experience the wonderful variety of stands that they have to offer, be it the exhilarating high towers or the incredibly realistic Purdey Grouse Moor.
Turnbull & Asser
There is a particular kind of prestige one feels when entering Turnbull & Asser’s flagship store on Jermyn Street in London. The kind that can only be achieved by possessing a trading history that stretches back more than a century and a heritage that most luxury clothing brands dream of acquiring. Turnbull & Asser is the shirtmaker, the benchmark against which all others, in Britain and beyond, have been measured for most of the 20th century until today.
It’s easy to become charmed by the eccentricity of the brand upon opening the doors of the store. The plush red carpets, mahogany-wood-panelled walls, and burnished Chesterfield sofas are quintessentially British, and herein lies half the appeal. Visiting this place is like stepping into Edwardian London. Some of the beautiful fixtures can be traced to the original opening in 1903, and since that date the fact that Sir Winston Churchill, Sir Michael Caine and Prince Charles have shopped here only furthers the appeal.