Marking its 270th anniversary this year, Vacheron Constantin celebrated in style at Watches & Wonders 2025, unveiling the world’s most complicated wristwatch, ever. Importantly, it’s a cleverly constructed watch with 41 complications that remains surprisingly wearable at just under 15 mm thick.

Fortunately, the anniversary lineup extends beyond the mega-flagship, with the brand applying a celebratory touch to a wide range of models – including its simplest: the Traditionnelle Manual-Winding. The new Traditionnelle is offered in either platinum or rose gold, and features an unusual, asymmetrically patterned dial in the form of a Maltese cross on the front, along with special finishing on the back. What do these updates add to the watch’s overall appeal?

A limited edition of 700 pieces in total, divided between two metals: platinum and rose gold. (Image: Revolution©)

A traditional kind of special

Launched in 2009, the Traditionnelle Manual-Winding entered a landscape that already included peers such as the Patek Philippe Calatrava reference 5196 introduced in 2004 and the second-generation A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia sans big date from 2007. Among these three time-only watches with small seconds from the top classical watchmakers, the Traditionnelle clearly offers something a bit more special. What makes it stand out?

The answer lies in the fact that, although the Traditionnelle appears simple at first glance, it actually goes the extra mile with subtle details designed to continuously surprise its owner over time. That is one of the best feelings of ownership – discovering little surprises and being amazed by the thoughtfulness.

The warmer variant in rose gold. (Image: Revolution©)

Take the dial, for example. The Traditionnelle’s dial is more detailed than those of its competitors. It features railroad track framing on both the main dial and the sub-dial, with the sub-dial serving as a highlight. The sub-dial is recessed relative to the main dial, creating a subtle depth effect. It also includes various finishes techniques that divide the sub-dial into three concentric circles, evoking the appearance of a sector dial. These refined details add finesse without ever feeling forced, as they are all neatly tucked within the small counter.

However, it’s worth noting that the twin polished metallic slopes – and in some cases, the concentric guilloché – on the sub-dial have quietly disappeared in recent years. In certain special editions, we also see a deliberate simplification of the sub-dial’s finishing to keep it from drawing too much attention, as seen in the second-generation Collection Excellence Platine (CEP) and in the current example.

The original Traditionnelle with more detailed sub-dial finishing. (Image: Collectors Time)

Though still recessed, the sub-dial of the anniversary edition has a simplified finish. (Image: Revolution©)

This attention to detail extends to the case as well, but again, it does not demand attention at first glance. From above, the case appears straightforward, but turning it to the side reveals the surprises. The lugs are stepped, and more notably, the underside of the case is decorated with a full ring of fluted motifs, creating the impression of a pearled band encircling the watch. This is quiet luxury by definition – known and appreciated by the owner but invisible to everyone else. In an era when many watches strive to shout their presence, Vacheron Constantin’s patience in hiding these details while still offering them is truly admirable.

The details along the case side and back are especially beautiful. (Image: Revolution©)

Graduation day

Understanding that the Traditionnelle has always been a detail-oriented watch helps explain why, for its anniversary, Vacheron Constantin decided to give it a patterned dial. While patterned dials are becoming more common on everyday watches, applying one to a classical dress watch that carries the Geneva Seal is quite uncommon – but it makes sense here.

It makes sense because this feels like a graduation day for the Traditionnelle Manual-Winding. It is a subtle watch that has always been full of details, and the Maltese cross patterned dial seems to complete the package. Yes, it may feel excessive at first glance, but it also feels like a milestone celebration for the watch, much like wearing elaborate gowns and regalia on a coronation day. In this case, the occasion is the brand’s 270th birthday, and the watch definitely deserves all the extra decoration.

(Image: Revolution©)

Let us take a closer look at the dial to break down its pattern. Readers and collectors alike know the Maltese cross is a major motif for the brand. In fact, it is Vacheron Constantin’s logo. The brand also likes to tuck the Maltese cross into many parts of its watches, with one of the best examples being the Maltese cross column wheel found in its chronographs.

Here, the Maltese cross is not just a large, simple shape on the dial, which would look bland. Instead, it is placed asymmetrically between seven and eight o’clock, with stripes radiating from every angle of the cross. Notably, the cuts on the dial feature various textures, including flat surfaces, straight stripes, and clous de Paris. Together, these textures and the pattern create a very nuanced dial. Some may find it too intricate, just as others may prefer the simplicity of a Calatrava or Saxonia, and that is absolutely fine. It is nice that there are options for those who want something different from the typical gentleman’s watch.

(Image: Revolution©)

However, it is worth noting that the various patterns on the dial are created through stamping. While the stamping is precise and finely executed, it does feel somewhat less special than hand-made guilloché. That said, stamping patterns on dials is a common practice among top brands at this price point. For example, Patek Philippe also used stamping for its special edition Calatrava ref. 6007A, released in 2020 to commemorate its new manufacture. Similarly, Audemars Piguet’s latest Code 11.59 models with guilloché dials also rely on stamping, though the dies themselves are produced using traditional engine turning.

(Image: Revolution©)

More surprises

While the dial has taken the path of adding more detail, the back of the watch does quite the opposite, which is unexpected. Instead of the usual Geneva stripes, Vacheron Constantin has opted for côte unique, a fine striping that looks almost like brushing, but with a soft, curved flow. According to the brand, this was a finishing technique used about a century ago, one that had been forgotten and only rediscovered in 2021. So it makes perfect sense to bring it back here, on a watch that marks such a special occasion.

The specially decorated Cal. 4400. (Image: Revolution©)

That said, visually, the côte unique doesn’t quite gleam like côtes de Genève. Since it’s a large plate finished with the same striping across the surface, it lacks that shimmering wave effect you get when Geneva stripes catch the light from different angles. It can feel a little flat in comparison, but from a philosophical point of view, it fits. You need something different to set this anniversary edition apart from the regular one.

(Image: Revolution©)

The rest of the cal. 4400 is finished the same way as the standard version, which is to say, very well. It carries the Geneva Seal and even features interior angles on some of the bridges, which go beyond the norm. And speaking of bridges, that’s one of the most attractive aspects of this movement. The multiple-bridge layout brings to mind the elegant architecture of classical pocket watch calibres.

The Geneva Seal is marked just under the limited edition number on the case back. (Image: Revolution©)

Notice the three interior angles, a rare feature at this price level. (Image: Revolution©)

Concluding thoughts

Despite being one of the brand’s simplest models, the Traditionnelle Manual-Winding still powerfully reflects Vacheron Constantin’s core strengths in classic Swiss watchmaking – elegant design and excellent construction. The anniversary edition adds an extra layer of charm with its Maltese cross–patterned dial and côte unique finishing on the back.

While it may feel a bit elaborate for those who prefer understated dress watches, the special touches are applied in a fairly restrained and tasteful way. After all, if there’s ever a time to dress up, it’s for a 270th birthday.

The more upscale version of the pair in platinum. (Image: Revolution©)

Tech Specs Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Manual-Winding

Reference: 82172/000P-H062 (platinum); 82172/000P-H118 (rose gold)
Movement: Cal. 4400 AS/270; manual wind; 65 hours power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, and seconds
Case: 38 mm x 7.77 mm; platinum or 18k rose gold; water resistant to 30 m
Strap: Alligator with pin buckle
Availability: Only at boutiques
Limited edition: 370 pieces in each metal
Price: USD 36,300 (platinum); USD 26,100 (rose gold)