A brand that had its heyday in the 1980s and 1990s, Daniel Roth was one of the earlier independent watchmakers, before going through a period of transition after changing hands several times. Since 2023, however, the LVMH group has given the name a proper reboot, with high-quality reissues that preserve the beautiful designs of the past while enhancing them with improved movement construction and finishing.

So far, the brand has revived the Tourbillon and the Extra Plate. As nice as these watches are, they are ultimately revivals rather than entirely new creations. They do send a clear message about LVMH’s direction for Daniel Roth, which is to preserve the spirit of the original founders. Still, collectors have been waiting to see whether the brand can continue the legacy rather than simply repeat it.

And here it is. The long-awaited, genuinely new piece: the Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton. It has never been produced before, yet it looks so natural, as though it has always been part of the collection. Let’s take a closer look at what’s new, and whether it’s good.

The new Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton (Image: Revolution ©)

New Design, New Language

Daniel Roth has produced skeleton watches before, but they were usually paired with complications such as a tourbillon or a chronograph. This makes the latest time-only skeleton something genuinely new for the brand. Stripping away the complication shifts the focus entirely to the architecture of the movement itself.

What has also changed is the language of skeletonisation itself. Gone are the elaborate, almost baroque engravings that defined many late 20th century pieces. In their place is something far more architectural. The movement is opened up with clarity and intent, its bridges drawn with clean lines and generous negative space. It feels lighter, more contemporary, less concerned with ornament and more with structure.

Put these elements together and the Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton feels unmistakably of today, a product of the revived Daniel Roth under LVMH. Yet it remains closely tied to its roots, thanks to the instantly recognisable double-ellipse case, here rendered in a faithful mid-size.

A light and airy feel on the wrist (Image: Revolution ©)

Extra Flat, Extra Skeleton

The key selling point of the Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton is not just that it’s skeletonised, but how it’s done. From the first glance, it’s clear that the base movement from the closed-dial Extra Plat has been carefully redesigned to create a light, airy architecture.

What looks effortless on the wrist is actually the result of careful reworking of the base movement, or perhaps even thoughtful design from the ground up to prepare for skeletonisation. The DR002 movement is not simply “cut down” for show. The bridges have been redesigned while keeping the same gear train layout, creating clean, flowing lines instead of a tangled mass of hollowed-out parts.

Simply a good look (Image: Revolution ©)

This approach matters because skeleton watches have traditionally been complex and lavish, whereas today there is growing demand for minimalist, modern designs. Daniel Roth, despite its heritage in traditional dress watches, has delivered exactly that. Simple, extended curves give the movement a strikingly open and almost see-through appearance. The effect is stunning: the barrel and gear train form a clear vertical line down the centre, while just a handful of bridges provide support without obstructing the view, recalling the feel of a mysterious, floating movement.

The skeletonisation of this watch works on two levels. First, material is removed from certain bridges, keeping only their outlines through hollowing and cutting. Second, vertical mass within the baseplate is taken away.

Gear train sandwiched within a highly skeletonised frame (Image: Revolution ©)

It is this second step that changes everything. Once so much of the baseplate’s thickness is removed, the movement can no longer rely on the usual method of securing components by simply screwing them into a solid plate. The structure has to be reconsidered. Take the “finger bridges” for the gear train leading to the escapement. What appears to be three separate bridges is in fact a single continuous piece, shaped to look independent. And to hold the movement together, Daniel Roth has returned to an old-school solution: pillars. These act like small columns between the front and back plates, a construction used centuries ago in marine chronometers, where large components required this kind of vertical support.

Because so much vertical mass has been removed, the skeletonised Extra Plat is actually flatter than the closed-dial version, with a 0.8 mm reduction in thickness, partly due to the absence of a dial. The watch now measures just 6.9 mm thick. Combined with the mid-size double-ellipse case of 38.6 mm by 35.5 mm, it feels unusually compact and light for a Daniel Roth. In the past, the brand’s cases were typically thick and solid, so seeing and wearing this watch comes as a pleasant surprise.

Elaborate case construction with a satisfying balance of thinness and solidity (Image: Revolution ©)

A few more details stand out in the construction of the Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton. First, the keyless works, the time-setting components visible beside the crown, are unusually elegant. Their curved forms, reminiscent of chronograph levers and springs, add a subtle touch of refinement to the watch’s overall look and feel.

Second, on close inspection, the geometrical outlines of the bridges, especially around the balance wheel and the finger bridges, are extremely precise and clean. This is achieved using electrical discharge machining, or EDM, a process that cuts metal with exceptional accuracy. The lines are less expressive than traditional hand-crafted parts of skeleton watches, giving a cool, calculated feel that complements the airy, modern character of the design.

A caseback that looks just like the dial side (Image: Revolution ©)

No Expense Spared

As with any skeletonised watch, there are countless corners both inside and outside each component that demand sharp, precise points. Not every brand can afford to finish all of these details, and in many cases, skeletonised watches end up with rounded corners where sharp ones are called for.

That is not the case with the Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton. Here, no expense has been spared when it comes to decoration. The movement is filled with sharp interior and exterior angles, creating a visual effect that is as impressive as it is intimidating. Some areas have very tight clearances, making it difficult for the polishing sticks to reach, yet each bevel has been meticulously finished. Observing the watch closely reveals the painstaking work required to create perfectly rounded, polished edges on every component.

It is rare for a major brand within a large conglomerate to achieve this level of finishing. This attention to detail positions Daniel Roth as a high-end, niche brand within the LVMH group, receiving treatment that rivals independent watchmakers. At CHF 85,000, the Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton offers strong value when considering the brand, the unique design, and the excellent construction and finishing.

Time for a feast (Image: Revolution ©)

More of that finishing goodness. Note the straight winding click, which, though short, is a solid detail that recalls vintage watches (Image: Revolution ©)

The keyless works resemble a chronograph lever or a swan-neck regulator (Image: Revolution ©)

Last but not least, with such an open skeleton, the underside of the movement components is inevitably visible. It is often here that the difference between great and merely good finishing becomes clear.

On the Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton, the finishing on the underside takes two approaches. Thicker bridges receive brushing similar to the top surfaces, while thinner bridges are decorated with perlage in a relatively wide pattern. If one were to nitpick, the stamped perlage can sometimes appear less defined, especially on larger curves, and a tighter pattern with smaller circles might look even more solid. This, however, is a very minor detail that can only be appreciated up close, and most eyes are naturally drawn to the beautifully polished bevels.

The underside of the bridges offers its own delights (Image: Revolution ©)

Concluding thoughts

The Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton marks an important milestone in the revival of Daniel Roth, reflecting the brand’s direction in several encouraging ways. First, it shows that LVMH is not content with simply revisiting the past and refining it. The brand is also committed to creating entirely new watches that capture the spirit of the original while remaining grounded in originality and creativity.

The skeletonisation further demonstrates this commitment, highlighting both high-end construction and meticulous finishing. This suggests that future creations, including complicated watches, could combine refined mechanics with exceptional finishing. It will be fascinating to see how the modern Daniel Roth continues to evolve.

Tech Specs: Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton

Movement :Hand-wound DR002SR Calibre, Power reserve of 65 hours; 4Hz (28,800 vph)
Functions: Hours and minutes
Case 38.6mm x 35.5mm x 6.9mm; 18K Rose gold 3N; water-resistant to 30m
Strap: Calfskin leather with 18k yellow gold buckle
Availability: Limited production each year
Price: CHF 85,000