Vacheron Constantin
Vacheron Constantin’s Les Collectionneurs Comes to Singapore
Meaning that budding collectors can immediately sidestep the once precarious shoals of dubiously creative vintage dealers by buying watches that are correct and original beyond a shadow of a doubt. And to me one of the best ways to do this is to buy a watch that has been reconditioned and restored by the manufacture itself.
Brands are responding to this need with Rolex for the first-time making public, the fact that it has a vintage restoration atelier. Other brands like the brilliantly led Cartier are purchasing vintage watches, painstakingly restoring them, and establishing, or re-establishing, their lineage and patrimony.
Cartier’s first offer of these vintage watches, here in Singapore, sold out in less than 24 hours, such was the demand. But of all the various brands in the haute horlogerie stratosphere, it is Vacheron Constantin that pioneered this concept of curating a collection of its own immaculately restored watches and first brought this to Singapore back in March of 2018.
What is clear from the fabulous array of horological finery that’s just landed in Singapore is that Vacheron Constantin is not holding back. The collection that has been personally selected by Selmoni is one of the most epic assemblies of drop dead gorgeous, grail status Vacheron Constantin watches including three Chronometer Royals, a pocket watch from 1910, a Reference 4907 with its amazing thick lugs from 1954, a Reference 6111 with the famous Maltese Cross lugs from 1956. Says Gael Porte Managing Director for Vacheron Constantin for South-East Asia, “What I love about this collection of watches is it shows the incredible creativity of Vacheron Constantin in shaped cases, in lug design and dial design. I would argue that Vacheron is the most creative of the haute horlogerie maisons in this regard and was pushing the concept of wristwatch design forward, especially in the ‘50s, at a level that no other watch brand was. I like to think that this is something that is very much alive in the masion today and expressed wonderfully with our Heritage collection such as, the American 1921 but also in our modern watches such as the sporty and elegant Overseas family.”
1951: Reference 4261 Minute Repeater with Tear-Drop Lugs
Look at the ultra-thin double stepped bezel, audacious isn’t it? The mid-case has magnificent Tear-Drop shaped lugs attached to it. I should pause here to note that Vacheron Constantin has probably the greatest creativity in lug design since the inception of the wristwatch. Some of its most iconic lugs include the Crab Claw, the Cornes de vache (cow horn), the flame and, as you see here, the Tear-Drop.
The indexes for the hours are a combination of 12, 3, 6 and 9 in Roman numerals and trapezoidal markers for the rest. Of course, no minute repeater can be assessed without playing it. The song of the this watch dating to 1951 is clear and deep with a well-regulated strike pattern.
1949: Reference 4414 Heure Universelle Pocket Watch
1967: Cioccolatone Reference 6440Q
It’s nickname “Cioccolatone” was bestowed upon it by the Italians, who compared it to the popular chocolate squares that has a similar shape. The size was also remarkable for the time at 34-36 mm but without lugs it has serious presence on the wrist. The first references of the watch were 4821 and 4822 (center seconds) both of which were manual winding.
1910: Chronomètre Royal Pocket Watch
Let’s start at the very beginning with the pocket watch version of the Chronomètre Royal. Created in 1907, the Chronometer Royal was like no other timepiece on the market in that was executed to the most extraordinary level of precision and reliability. The model caught attention around the world but in particular in South America, and especially Brazil. In Rio, a retailer named Campos would organize a lottery system in which subscribers would stand the chance to win one of these magnificent timepieces. Such was the popularity of the Chronomètre Royal, more than 3,000 watches were sold in a mere 4 years in South America.
1954: Chronomètre Royal Reference 4907
If you’re wondering, BS in this context refers to “Balance Stop”, or the hacking function of these watches. Basically, Vacheron’s own ad from 1957 said it all about this incredible timepiece, “Created for demanding clientele by the same experts at Vacheron Constantin who have produced the victorious chronometers at observatory trails.”
What’s cool about purchasing a 4907 that has been officially refurbished and restored by Vacheron Constantin is the fact that the amazing movements in this case a center seconds 1008BS has been stripped down and rebuilt and regulated with the same exacting quality as the experts assembling it for the first time in 1954 did. The Reference 4907 is a rare watch in that it was only produced for 9 years from 1953 to 1962 before it was replaced with a new model with an automatic movement and a totally redesigned case.
1956: Chronomètre Royal Reference 6111
This watch which dates to 1956 also features the legendary Calibre 1008 BS that was created to compete in observatory trials. One of the most beautiful sights in all of horology is to witness the beauty of this caliber with its large balance wheel and swan neck regulator, a bridge for the center seconds train and its massive lever to stop the balance wheel for the hacking function. The finish on these movements can only be described at transcendent.
1952: Crab Claw Lug Reference 4659
Don’t forget that the famous Cornes de vache chronograph, the Reference 6087 with its cow horn lugs came from 1955. But of all the watches that emerged from this period the Crab Claw Lug 4659 is both the most unusual and one of the most appealing.
To me, the design is just stunning and, on the wrist, it epitomizes the chicness I associate with the leading aesthetes of the era. It is the type of watch I would imagine Gianni Agnelli or Baby Pignatari wear as they romanced haute monde demoiselles in New York’s Stork Club. When I look at this watch I hear Chet Baker playing Rondette in Paris. I think of sitting on the terrace of the Gritti Palace in Venice, clad in Caraceni or Cifonelli, a Negroni in hand.
It represents every part of the post WWII exuberance and optimism that I love and that continues to inspire me. One thing to note is that I would only purchase a watch like this only if it’s been correctly restored by Vacheron because I know the case has been left largely unmolested and only cleaned up to get the polished planes of the faceted Crab lugs on point.
My concern when purchasing a watch like this anywhere else is that the lugs would have been incorrectly polished, or even worse restored using laser welding or some other dark art.
PS: I finally broke down and called Vacheron to find out the price of this masterpiece only to discover it had been sold on day one of the Les Collectionneurs exhibition in Singapore. I want to congratulate the new owner as this individual truly has epic taste.
1948: Altesse Reference 3681 30mm in diameter
Schedule
Vacheron Constantin ION Orchard Boutique
Date 1 – 17 March 2021
Hours 10:00 AM – 9.30 PM Daily
Address 2 Orchard Turn #02-07 Singapore 238801
Vacheron Constantin Marina Bay Sands Boutique
Date 18 – 31 March 2021
Hours 11:00AM – 10:00PM Daily
Address The Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands, 2 Bayfront Avenue #B2M-238 Singapore 018972
More information: vacheron-constantin.com