The Tudor dive watch saga began in 1954, with the introduction of the Submariner reference 7922. The watch was diminutive by modern standards, measuring 37mm, and was of the no-crown-guard variety with a small (compared to the later Big Crown Subs) 6mm winding crown. Waterproof to a depth of 100m it was the beginning of a fun and daring story that continues to date. Like the Black Bay Fifty-Eight, that paid tribute to the 1958 so-called Big Crown 7924, the new Black Bay 54 celebrates that first dive watch and is, according to the brand, the most “true to form” Black Bay yet. Let’s dive a little deeper.

My favorite element? It’s got to be the bezel. So much emphasis is placed on the bezel with vintage Submariners from both Tudor and Rolex, with a correct mid-1950s bezel in perfect condition selling for tens of thousands of dollars. Tudor has used a no-hash-marks insert on the 54, which is brilliant, and they have kept the triangle at 12 silver instead of making it red. It’s a small but important detail to guys like me! The bezel itself has also been reworked with a coin-edge profile that is very faithful to the original style on vintage no-crown-guard Tudors.

Finally, the bracelet options. The steel bracelet is the tried-and-tested rivet-link design that we have seen on the Black Bays and other Tudors for a while now. Fans of the T-Fit clasp can breathe a collective sigh of relief as the bracelet does have the feature. New for the 54 is, however, a rubber strap with steel endlinks in a similar vein to the set up seen on the Pelagos. The good news is that the clasp on the rubber strap also has the T-Fit function on the clasp.

Tech Specs

Tudor Black Bay 54

Reference: 79000N
Movement: Manufacture Caliber MT5400
Functions: Hours, minutes and stop-seconds
Case: 37mm stainless steel
Dial: Black domed sunray finish with gilt accents
Strap: Three-link stainless steel bracelet with polished and satin finish, or rubber strap, both with TUDOR “T-fit” clasp