The first unmissable detail on Sylvain Pinaud’s sophisticated and assured “Origine” is the balance. Measuring 13.2mm across, and held in place by a long, straight bridge that dominates the lower half of the watch, it’s a clear indicator not just of Pinaud’s skill in watch design and finishing, but also of his clear vision as to what Origine stands for.

To discover Pinaud’s own horological origin story, you need to go back quite a way. The son of a watchmaker, Sylvain spent his formative years tinkering with and later servicing timepieces in the family shop. Pinaud formalized his education in the Jura, at the famed Morteau watchmaking school, the Lycée Edgar Faure. This prestigious institution lays claim to a host of famous graduates and is regarded by no less a luminary than Philippe Dufour to be one of the best watchmaking schools in the region. Pinaud’s talent quickly saw his sights spread further than a future in the family business of watches, and over the next two decades, he amassed experience working on complications and prototyping within the labyrinthine machine that is the Swiss watch industry. In 2018, he made the fateful leap to independence. We spoke to Pinaud in his Sainte-Croix workshop via Zoom several months after the successful debut of his new timepiece, the Origine, at the 2022 AHCI exhibition in L’iceBergues — an experience that was every bit as chaotic and rewarding as you might expect: “It was very good for me as a newcomer. The first watch I made was private, intimate. This time I presented with the AHCI, and it gave me great visibility. I arrived with no preparation, I finished my pieces the day of the exhibition — but it was met with interest by collectors. I think I’ve made a good watch.”

We’ll come to the relative merits of Sylvain’s Origine, but first, we should address the surprising fact that this is Pinaud’s sophomore release rather than, as the name suggests, his debut. In 2018, he unveiled the watch he simply refers to as “the Chronograph,” a piece which is a great deal more complex than the name suggests. This monopusher chronograph, with an open dial and exceptionally complex case construction, featured prominent screws and a sophisticated sapphire caseband that allowed an uninterrupted view of Pinaud’s marine chronometer inspired caliber. “The Chronograph was really the first piece I made all by myself. It was quite new for me to design using CAD [computer-aided design], and make all the adjustments. It was a long process; I worked over a year and a half on it, but it was a good result, and the watch is working well.” Don’t just take Pinaud’s word for it; in 2019, the watch won Pinaud the award for best restoration watchmaker in the prestigious French crafts competition, the Un des Meilleurs Ouvriers de France.

If you placed the Chronograph next to Origine, you would see a shared design language across the two, but also be struck by the fact that Pinaud’s second release is markedly simpler, more conservative and, it must be said, more commercial. “I learned a lot on my first watch and knew what I wanted on my second. I wanted something quite simple and efficient, where all the components can be made on traditional machinery, because that’s the way I work. Everything has to be reliable; the function gives you form. I tried to make everything harmonize. It’s a watchmaker’s watch.” Pinaud goes on to explain the genesis of the design. “The first thing I drew was the face of the watch. I drew the dial, I had the idea — I wanted a horizontal disposition with a bit of asymmetry. I wanted a big balance wheel at six, and then I had to find all the proportions to make it harmonious. I had to design my escapement, my gear train and everything to keep the proportions. I love chronometry — for me, it is the most important part of watchmaking — a good watch needs to have good chronometry.”

Good chronometry isn’t something that comes quickly or easily. Pinaud says that from idea to final form, his Origine took three and a half years. “I did not want to make a watch with a closed dial. To draw the face, and to be happy with the face, took me a year and a half.” The beautiful balance which occupies pride of place presented its own challenges. Pinaud describes the multiple designs and variations he worked on until achieving that final, balanced look. “I made the first version with a lower rate, then I tried a lower power reserve. Eventually I found a good balance. Finally I made it with a Phillips spiral, with three weights in gold. I made quite a few prototypes; some were good, some were OK, and others are best not to speak about. This version is good; I think I will use it in all future projects.”

Sylvain Pinaud’s approach to watchmaking is, in many ways, emblematic of a new generation of watchmakers. Pinaud is appreciative of the privileges afforded to being an independent watchmaker in 2022: “I don’t know how it was 10 or 20 years ago, but I know my predecessors are working hard to open the way. I’m good friends with Vianney Halter and others who pioneered independent watchmaking. From the stories they tell from the early years, it’s clear they had to be mercenary to make it. Now it’s really nice to see collectors understand what you do in traditional watchmaking, and understand and appreciate your process and the technique. They have big respect; it’s really a pleasure to work in these times.”

Another aspect of independent watchmaking today that Pinaud is thankful for is the creative community. Watchmaking, especially the sort of artisanal craft that Pinaud practises, is stereotypically a solitary pursuit — one man hunched over a desk — while the reality, for Pinaud at least, is quite different. “It’s all about sharing. If I have a problem, I call Vianney and ask him for his secrets, and he shares them with me. We have watchmaker WhatsApp groups. Social media is incredible. I can see how other people make wheels or do anglage. When I see a great video like this, I call the guy, and get some advice, and we share. For me, it’s truly collaboration. I need a lot of know-how on different things. On many components, I work with people who have impressive skills. Without Comblémine [Kari Voutilainen’s dial factory] I could not make a dial. For me, it is all about sharing. I always say ‘we’ — I have a young watchmaker who works with me and a person who helps with finishing. We all work well together and are passionate. Without them, I am nothing.”

Based on the quality of Pinaud’s design and finish, along with the integrity of his vision, we think that Origine is far from the last we’ll be seeing from this talented artisan.

Tech Specs

Sylvain Pinaud Origine

Movement: Manual winding caliber; 55-hour power reserve
Functions: Off-centered hours and minutes, and small seconds
Case: 40mm; stainless steel; water resistant to 30m
Dial: Openworked and silvered
Strap: Black or brown alligator leather; stainless steel pin buckle
Price: Starting from EUR 65,000