Cartier
The Best of Watches and Wonders For Less
So I’m for the middle of the bell curve: watches which — while still having thousand-dollar price tags — are attainable and, importantly in this era of badly skewed supply and demand, available.
Luckily, there were plenty of these watches on show in Geneva, too. For every multi-million-franc hyperwatch, there was a more pedestrian equivalent. In many ways, these watches have to work harder for attention, and they’re the better for it. After all, it’s easy for a watch with unlimited scope and budget to wow us, but a highly commercial, high-volume piece with tighter margins, that’s a different story. If a watch like that stands out from the pack, it feels so much more deserved.
At Geneva, we saw several such worthy watches. For me, the standouts were from TAG Heuer and Oris — no stranger to this price point — as well as Cartier, who sees the value in having a range of solid offerings across the board.
With the ProPilot X Calibre 400, we’re not just seeing these two elements coming together, but we’re seeing a glimpse of what Oris’s future focus might look like. Much has already been said about the caliber 400 and we don’t need to go into the details again — five days’ reserve, 10 years’ warranty, and all the rest ensure it is competitive with the best of the workhorse autos on the market right now. And in this watch, it does that job. What I’m really excited about is this evolution of the ProPilot X. With its modern facets and angles and outstanding bracelet, the titanium design was an exciting move for the brand, and the openworked dial wasn’t for everyone. That isn’t the case here. With a 39mm case and solid dials in a range of attractive colors (with more in the pipeline, surely), this is a watch made for broad commercial appeal, and I see absolutely nothing unappealing in it, especially for CHF 3,900.
The Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph is made to be worn: it’s 40mm across, with a slim profile and a hardwearing DLC-coated steel case on a rubber strap; add to this the accessible price point, and it’s perfectly suited to actual sports. The marbled bezel with luminous inclusions adds edge and attitude, but the real talking point is the movement. A solar module sits on top of the quartz caliber and is the first-ever Swiss implementation of Citizen’s Eco-Drive technology. This is possible thanks to a partnership with La Joux-Perret, a well-regarded movement manufacturer that is part of the Citizen group’s portfolio. This tech is proven, convenient and good for the environment. To me, though, it’s also another sign that we’re entering a new phase of quartz appreciation. In the recent past, solar-powered watches have been marketed as overly clunky, tech-packed adventure watches, but with major Swiss players like TAG Heuer and Cartier embracing the convenience and creating stylish solar-powered watches, I’m hoping we see a lot more accessible, sunlit watches in years to come.